Seiko SKX Compared – Gateway Watches to Affordable Luxury

If you’re curious about the differences between the iconic Seiko SKX models, here’s how to tell them apart. Welcome to our SKX Seiko comparison guide.

In case you missed it, the Seiko SKX took the world by storm 23 years ago. The brand launched it in 1996 and ceased production in 2019. Throughout those two decades, it became the affordable, rugged, legendary diver to own. Not only did it impress collectors with its entry-level pricing, but also its undeniably bold charm. As with all successful Seiko watches, there are several models in the collection. We’re going to break the three main ones down in this “Seiko SKX Compared” guide!

The SKX was not quite the Rolex Sub; that much we can agree on (does a finer example even exist?). But it certainly made for an affordable alternative. In my opinion, it’s one of the very few dive watches that have been able to influence the industry long after its discontinuation. Unlike many other cheap sports watches, the SKX had (and still has) a purpose. It’s an actual dive watch built by actual Seiko experts for doing things other than diving. And despite the discontinuation of popular models like the SKX007, SKX009, and SKX013, they’re still available today. In fact, people will pay a lot more for them now than they were worth at the time. 

Seiko SKX Compared – An Overview

Let’s face it: the Seiko SKX series is going nowhere. The collection comprises dive watches of all colorways, including the bright orange SKX011. It also includes the larger-than-life Seiko Monsters, SKX779, and 881. There are even variants, like the 005, adorned with guilloche-esque dials. Still, the SKX007, his little brother the SKX013, and the Pepsi-bezel SKX009 are arguably the core line.

These SKXs epitomize good, honest function. They all feature solid steel cases, unidirectional bezels, a four-o’clock crown placement, round indices, and 12-o’clock triangles. They all have 200M water-resistant ratings and a Hardlex crystal —a standard mineral treated by Seiko experts for improved hardness.  

All the core SKX watches feature a tried-and-tested Seiko movement. The Caliber 7S26 is a 21-jewel automatic with a 43-hour power reserve. The industry often throws around the term “workhorse” for basic mechanical movements, but this engine deserves the accolade. It’s durable, usually described as “bullet-proof,” and incredibly efficient with its respectable 21,600 bph.

While all three SKX watches share those attributes, there are key differences aesthetically. Before we get into the nitty-gritty, know that the 42.5mm SKX007 and SKX009 models are practically the same watch but in different colors. The SKX007 is a classic black model, while the SKX009 is a striking blue and red “Pepsi” variant. The SKX013, however, differs in that it’s a smaller 38mm watch for slender wrists. 

A Brief History of the Legendary Seiko SKX

The Seiko SKX surfaced in 1996, but its inspiration runs deeper into the brand’s history. The brand’s first mechanical diver was the 62MAS, which Seiko launched to contend with Swiss rivals regarding reliability, affordability, and performance. 

Following the huge success of this model, Seiko launched a 600M water-resistant titanium model and the Hybrid Diver “Arnie” H558 watch. In addition, the brand released a 1000M water-resistant ceramic model in 1986. The most immediate ancestor to the 62MAS, however, was the Seiko 7002. Crowned with 200M water resistance and syringe/sword/arrow dial hand types, it’s the most basic version of the flagship dive watch. Still, nothing compares to the popularity of the SKX007, SKX009, and SKX013, but all three models are no more.

Met with much initial criticism, Seiko replaced the SKX with the 5 SKX Sports watch. Though less impactful and not as bomb-proof as the SKX, collectors have certainly warmed to it over the years. But this article isn’t about the Seiko 5 Sports; today, we’re looking at three important SKX watches. Let’s compare them to see what the differences are.

The Seiko SKX 007

I discussed the Seiko SKX007 in more detail in another article. Basically, if the Rolex Sub is the quintessential dive watch, the Seiko SKX 007 must be its more affordable counterpart. Its ISO-certified case and impressively luminous dial elements appealed to budding enthusiasts. This 42.5mm stainless steel model gets the most attention of all three references, and it’s not hard to see why. The black dial and bezel combo is classic and versatile enough to pair with anything a man has in his wardrobe.  

This is quite a thick watch but doesn’t sit too high off the wrist. It shares the same dimensions as the SKX009 model, with highly polished case sides, finely brushed lug tops, and a 4H crown. Both models also feature a 120-click bezel and a screw-down case back featuring the Tsunami medallion. 

Seiko SKX 009 “Pepsi”

The word “Pepsi” instantly conjures images of the sugary soda drink to the average person. For Bonafide watch enthusiasts, however, it means something completely different. The “Pepsi” watch story began in 1953 when the crown brand launched the GMT-Master reference 6542. It was Rolex’s famous pilot’s watch with a two-tone bezel. The model assisted PanAM transatlantic flights with its striking blue and red bakelite bezel. In 2014, Rolex launched the ceramic version, a horological feat considering colored ceramic came with many technical challenges. 

The “Pepsi” bezel in ceramic was what fans had long awaited and is still a classic choice for connoisseurs today. Of course, many alternatives to the GMT-Master watch have since arrived, the Seiko SKX 009 being one of them. It is not a GMT complication but a dive tool, featuring a deep blue dial, a steel bracelet, and 200M water resistance. Unlike the PanAm bezel by Rolex, its red portion only resides in the northeastern section of the ring. Instead, it takes up just over a fourth, marking the first 20 minutes of dive time.

The Smaller Seiko SKX 013

Could the Seiko SKX 013 be the best dive watch for small wrists? Possibly so. It sports a black dial, which it shares with the SKX007 but in smaller dimensions. Its 38mm case is compact and utilizes the dial proportions very well. This mid-size classic diver is more authentic to original models from the dive watch era, adding a touch of vintage charm to the design. Plus, Seiko shaved off some of the 007 and 009’s thickness, giving it a case depth of 12mm.

While the Seiko SKX013 is easier for the smaller wrist to carry, it still runs on the Calibre 7S26. Unlike the SKX007 and SKX009 models, its day date nestles itself into the rehaut. It also features different minute and second hands but shares the same hour hands. However, the fully-fledged arrow syringe second hand stands out with a luminous filling. 

One other noticeable difference in this design is its longer lugs. Speaking of which, there is a range of SKX013 strap options to play around with, too. Also note that since this smaller series member is rarer, you should expect to pay a little more. 

SKX-K vs SKX-J

You may notice that some SKXs end with a “K” or a “J.” So, what’s the difference between the ref. SKX007K and SKX007J?

The “J” means that Seiko made it in Japan. The “K” means that Seiko built it overseas, possibly in Malaysia or Korea (it isn’t actually clear). Japan tends to keep its greatest hits on domestic shores, so the J watches are often slightly higher in quality. As such, they usually flaunt a sharper finish. They also come with a higher price tag.

In all honesty, the differences are minute and unimportant. If you’re dying to get your hands on a “J” watch, look for a “21 Jewels” appellate on the dial. The Japan WP embossing sits on the back. The “K,” however, has a cleaner dial since it doesn’t have that marking but does feature the WP on the back. 

Sellers often add a 1 or 2 to the end of the reference to signify what strap it comes with. For example, you may look at an SKX007K1 with a rubber strap or an SKX007K2 with a Jubilee bracelet.

FAQs 

Here are a few commonly asked questions about the SKX series and some at-a-glance answers!

What Is the Difference Between SKX007 and SKX013?

The SKX007 has a 42.5mm case, while the SKX013 has a 38mm case. Since they use the same movement, the SKX007 has more negative space on its dial. Meanwhile, the mid-size SKX013 has sharper hands and lugs.

What Is the Difference Between Seiko SKX007 and SKX009?

The only difference between the two is their coloring. The SKX007 has a traditional black dial and a black bezel, while the SKX009 is a Pepsi watch with a dark blue dial and a red-and-blue bezel.

Is the Seiko SKX009 Discontinued?

Yes, the Seiko discontinued the SKX009 in 2019.

The Takeaway

Those are the three main models of the Seiko SKX compared. I’m sure you’ll agree; they’re some of the greatest beaters of all time. They’re all robust, functional, affordable Seiko watches that make a lasting impression on the wrist. Fans also love to go hard on the modding side of things, switching out bezels, movements, and straps and upgrading their crystals. Even though Seiko discontinued them, gray market dealers like Jomashop still sell them new. You can easily pick them up in the pre-owned market, too.  

Since their discontinuation, SKX watch prices have risen, though at an inconsequential glacial pace. These days, it’s unlikely you’ll find one of these Seiko watches under the $500 mark. Once it reaches vintage status, who knows how much the price will inflate.

And while you may feel its low price was a big part of its appeal, I’d argue that the SKX is now a great investment proposition. It’s an icon in its own right, with a history that further adds to its charm. Besides, if you want a cheap SKX alternative, there’s always the Seiko 5.

Do you own a watch from the Seiko SKX series? Tell us what you love about it most in the comments section below. Don’t forget to sign up for our newsletter here at The Slender Wrist for more content like this.