Why Square and Rectangle Watches Need To Be Part of Your Life

Add some square and rectangle watches to your collection. You’ll thank me for it!

A couple of years ago, something interesting happened in the luxury watch industry. Cartier began taking over Omega in market shares.

This could mean one of two things. 1) Connoisseurs are again turning their attention to formal or dressy watches. 2) They want to experience more of the brand’s iconic case shapes.  

Cartier is a master at creating square and rectangular-shaped timepieces (think the Santos or Tanks of the world). 

The consistent love for these case shapes since the 1920s has likely made micro brands stop and listen. Are they missing a trick?  

There’s a reason why round watches are aplenty in comparison to rectangular or square designs. Historically, movements have always been round in shape, so the decision to create a round case was rather logical.

Today, there are plenty of rectangular watches to get involved in, as well as square ones. Some, like the Noah x Timex  Sun & Moon watch, are highly collectible and sell out instantly.

I’m rounding some up for you so that you don’t miss out on the best ones on the current market. 

The Allure of the Cartier Square Watch

To understand the appeal of the square watch, we only really need to look at one key brand. That brand is Cartier. 

Louis Cartier first designed the Cartier Tank in 1917, basing it on military tanks used during World War 1. It would become the brand’s most iconic collectible throughout its history. 

Interestingly, the Cartier Tank is both square and rectangular. Some of its definitive features include traditional Roman numeral hour markers and a single sapphire-set crown. 

Although Cartier only manufactured 6 to start with, debuting them to the public in 1919, popularity and demand rose considerably. Today, it’s an elegant, classic, unisex watch, appealing on a vast scale to collectors all over the world.

Rudolph Valentino, Andy Warhol, and Jackqueline Kennedy are all famous for wearing the Cartier square watch. The latter’s Tank sold at auction for the staggering sum of $379,500!

Who Makes the Best Square Watches for Men?

Several watch manufacturers spring to mind when anyone asks me who makes the best square watches for men. Of course, Cartier has to be at the top of the list, but the history of square watches doesn’t begin and end with Cartier. 

Bell & Ross watches specializes in manufacturing instrument panel-inspired watches for the cockpit. You can easily identify the brand’s aviation wristwatches by their circle-within-a-square design. The BR 01 was Bell & Ross’s first square watch.

The company’s first square diving watch, the BR 03, followed after that. Both watches have slightly rounded corners, legible lume-treated dials, automatic movements, and solid steel bracelets. 

Other masters of the square watch include Nomos. The Saxonian-based manufacturer is my favorite brand of all time and is famous for creating the crisp, modern-looking Tetra.

Some additional names include Rado, TAG Heuer, Jaeger-LeCoultre, and Glashutte Original. We’ll look at the square watches made by these manufacturers in a little more detail now. 

The Best Square and Rectangle Watches

If you’re already considering investing in a square watch, some brands are worth considering. Let’s take a look at these top picks.

Cartier Tank

Obviously, I will kick this guide off to the best start with the Cartier Tank. It is, after all, the mother of all rectangular watches.

The Cartier Tank has two distinctive brancards that help form a recognizable rectangular shape. Whether you opt for steel, white gold, rose gold, or yellow gold, Tank watches all harness the earlier spirit of this collection. 

How classic does this design look? The Cartier Tank Louis model’s 18ct rose gold case houses the MC 1917 Caliber. It features a blue sapphire cabochon crown at 3 o’clock. The dial is just as classic.

A white display forms the backdrop to blue steel hands and crisp black-printed Roman numeral hour markers. Don’t forget the railroad minute markers, either. They complete the design, giving this watch an unmistakable look. 

Cartier finishes this men’s Tank watch with a brown alligator leather band and a traditional rose gold ardillon (i.e. tang) buckle.

Be aware, some Tank watches are pricey, but there are definitely some great alternative options, too. (For one notable option, check out our Seiko SUP880 review.)

TAG Heuer Monaco

All hail the Monaco watch from TAG Heuer. It’s one of the Swiss maison’s most famous designs.

Lending to its notability is legendary actor and racing driver Steve McQueen. McQueen wore this iconic sports watch for the filming of “Le Mans” in the 1970s, catapulting the design to success. 

One of the things I love about the TAG Heuer Monaco is the square sub-scales. Laterally positioned, these chronograph counters match the case’s silhouette.

My favorite model is this reference, CAW211P.FC6356. And don’t worry — it’s a square watch for small wrists, too, measuring 39mm!

This watch features a dark blue dial with silver-white chronograph scales. Sharp injections of red in the hands and hour markers also add to its sportiness. The blue perforated leather band is charming, to say the least.

Moreover, this blue is a TAG Heuer special, pointing to the brand’s rich heritage in motorsport racing. For bold geometries, beveled crystals, and sleek ergonomics, it has to be the TAG Heuer Monaco watch.   

Bell & Ross BR-X5

Calling all lovers of pilot instruments. The Bell & Ros BR-X5 borrows the circle-within-a-square profile of the BR 01 and BR 03 models, giving a sporty makeover. 

The BR-X5 is rugged and masculine. It’s the urban version of the brand’s instrument panel-inspired timepieces.

This sporty number focuses on legibility and robustness above all. Its sturdy stainless steel case measures 41mm in diameter and features a hard sapphire glass front. 

The square watches from the BR-X5 also come with manufacturing movements. This Ice Blue version protects the BR-CAL.323 underneath its shimmering dial. It gives you 70 hours of power reserve while sitting inside the brand’s impressive multi-construction case. 

Bell & Ross watches are instantly recognizable. So, if you want a watch that expresses individuality, the BR-X5 is an excellent choice.

This model has a comfortable integrated steel bracelet. It also features a power reserve display and retrograde date indicator at 9 and 3 o’clock, respectively. 

Glashutte Original Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date

If I wanted to demonstrate the difference between a square case and a cushion case, I’d use a Glashutte Original watch. This model presents the cushion case in perfect proportions.

Here, you can see how the corners are round, unlike the contemporary angles of a sharp rectangular case. Capturing the design codes of the 1970s, the Glashutte Original Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date is sporty and dynamic. 

It has a 40mm steel case, so it does create some substantial wrist presence, especially with its muted blue dial color.

I particularly like the bi-compax layout of the chronograph counters at 3 and 9 o’clock. Somehow, they manage to impart subtle motorsport vibes. 

This model features a classic brown calf leather band with cream-colored contrast stitching for a retro touch. I also really like the oversized double date window at 6H and the fact that this watch uses an in-house movement.

Glashutte Original also assembles, decorates, and regulates the  Caliber 37-02 in its ateliers in Germany. 

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso

Ever heard of the Reverso? It has a pretty interesting backstory. Consider this another elegant Cartier Tank alternative. 

Jaeger-LeCoultre originally designed the Reverso for use during polo. During the 1930s, polo players were constantly bashing up their beloved timepieces while playing their favorite sport. What they needed was a watch case that could turn in on itself.

The Reverso was the answer. It enabled the player to protect the dial by swizzling the watch around to expose the solid caseback. Sounds legendary, right? And it was!

The Reverso watch is famous for its gadroons flanking the dial and its innate Art Deco aesthetic. This model features an 18ct rose gold case, constituting the perfect dress watch for special occasions. 

The Reverso defines the classic traditional dress watch for men. It’s a timeless design with an understated dial. This is a “Monoface” design, meaning that when you flip the dial over, you get the flat caseback. Some models, however, boast a double-face design. 

I like how the company’s expert designers chose a small seconds complication for many of the Reverso watches. This feature donates more space and attention to the central hands, beautifully carved into swords.

Rado True Square Open Heart

Rado True Square watches make use of the brand’s innovative high-tech ceramic material, promising a corrosion and scratch-resistant case. Moreover, they are square, keeping in line with Rado’s contemporary approach to watchmaking.

You can’t really beat the smoothness, lightness, and general all-around comfort of one of Rado’s injection-molded monobloc high-tech ceramic cases. 

This model measures 38mm in diameter, so it’s one of the more manageable sizes for those men with smaller wrists. Its skeleton dial, with gold-colored accents, exposes an automatic movement, complete with 80 hours of power reserve through its surface. 

The watch also features a matching high-tech ceramic bracelet and a water-resistant rating of 50 meters. True, this watch isn’t the most waterproof.

But would you be wearing this opulent timepiece for anything water-related anyway? Probably not. If you’re looking for a distinctively modern square watch — Rado is your brand. 

Cartier Santos

We’re rounding this list off with another one from Cartier. Originally developed for aviation, the Santos de Cartier design is one of the brand’s best sellers. Its distinctive square shape is bolder and more masculine than the Tank.

Side-by-side, however, both the Tank and Santos have their own appealing features. (Here’s our Cartier Santos vs Tank article for more detailed comparisons.)  

The Cartier Santos is also sporty and stylish. This landmark innovation dates back to 1904, when Louis Cartier designed the watch for pioneering aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont. 

This enduring collection comprises small, medium, large, and extra-large models. Interestingly, because of the Santos watch’s classic aesthetics, the small and medium sizes appeal to males with slender wrists.

Bear in mind that a square watch measuring 35mm is as tall as it is wide, constituting a broad watch. 

This Cartier de Santos watch features a stainless steel case topped with an 18ct yellow gold bezel.

Its blue steel hands sit against a white dial. Classic and elegant, the company’s signature railroad minute track and black Roman numerals preserve the appeal of the historical Santos.

The model also features a “Smartlink” adjustment system integrated into a steel bracelet with gold screws that add some nice detailing.

FAQs:

Here are a few FAQs to help you weigh up whether a square watch is for you. 

What are square watches called?

If a watch’s square case has rounded corners, you may hear people say a square watch has a cushion case. The same goes for a watch with a rectangle face. Other watch cases may go by the names “pillow” or “squircle.” 

Are square watches better?

Choosing between a square or other watch case depends on personal preference. No one case shape is “better” than another. Square watches tend to have a more contemporary presence on the wrist, while rectangle watch faces are more classic. 

Did Rolex make a square watch?

It may come as a surprise that the industry giant Rolex has produced several square and rectangular watches in the past. However, the brand ceased production of these over thirty years ago. Many of these models belonged to the Cellini watch collection. 

Rounding Up

The round watch is by far the most common watch shape on the market. But that doesn’t mean other shapes don’t perform well. Square and rectangle watches appeal to collectors for their elegant and unconventional shapes.

They are an artistic expression, as examples like the Projects Watches Grand Tour Shiitake demonstrates. Some models evoke a clean and contemporary wrist finish, while others look resolutely classic. 

Of course, other watch cases attract similar consumers looking for something that breaks the norm. Other options include oval, cushion, tonneau, and shield shapes.

Yet for many, square watches like the Nomos Tetra and the rectangular Tank will never lose their appeal. 

Above all, rectangular watches have a sleek, elegant design with sharp angles and an equally unconventional dial. You can wear them for both formal and casual occasions, and they come in an array of different case materials. 

Hopefully, this list will set you on the right path to finding your dream rectangular/square watch. Adding one of these timepieces to your collection is a great way to mix things up a little!

For that reason, I think every collection should include at least one square or rectangular timepiece. Maybe you already have one that you’d like to share. Leave us a comment below and let us know your favorite!