The Return of the Small Watch: And Why You Need One

Small watches for men are back in full force. Today, I’m going to tell you why I think every man should have a small watch in their collection – even if you prefer beefy aesthetics!

Large watches have fully dominated menswear since the 1980s. And unlike most cyclical fashion, it stuck. It remained consistent. The bigger-is-better trend seemed not to be a trend but an era. As someone who not only has a small wrist but prefers a small watch in general, I’m glad the era is ending.

Here’s the thing, though. It doesn’t mean big watches are out of style. I think it means that the end of monoculture has ushered in a world where we can wear what we want. There’s room for all watch sizes!

I’ve been collecting watches for decades. I’ve also worked with collectors for the better part of a decade. Here are a few reasons why I personally believe having at least one non-monster in your collection is a good idea. 

For the record, I have nothing against big watches. I want to get that out of the way because I’m not here to indoctrinate you but to share information and my opinions. My biggest watch philosophy is to wear what you love and what makes you happy.

What Counts as a Small Watch?

Obviously, what’s small on one person’s wrist won’t be small on another. In general, here’s what I consider small.

While 42 millimeters isn’t small by any means, I’d say it’s the biggest you should go regarding tool watches. I think my Rolex Explorer II looks just fine on my slender wrist. It wears big, but it doesn’t overtake my wrist. However, I think a sweet spot for tool watches is 36 millimeters to 40 millimeters.

For everyday watches, such as a field watch or an Oyster Perpetual, I like to give a range of 34 to 38 millimeters.

For dress watches, or models you wear as dress watches (more on that later), you can go as small as 28 millimeters. I know I’ll get flack for this. But if a dress watch has a lot of details or sparkle and you don’t want it to be gaudy, the smaller, the better. It’ll wear like an old-school cocktail watch! In my opinion, a dress watch shouldn’t be bigger than 38 millimeters. 

I believe 36-millimeter to 40-millimeter watches are universally flattering for any watch style. Now that we have that out of the way, here are my reasons why I think small-dial watches for men are a good idea — and sometimes the better choice.

They Hat-Tip To Vintage Style

There’s something so natural about a watch that incorporates a touch of vintage into its design. It’s likely why many brands reissue or remix models from their archives. Watches are all about stories, after all.

Moreover, watches are, for all intents and purposes, anachronisms. We don’t need them. They aren’t the way we tell time anymore. This is why the vintage connection makes so much sense. This is relevant even if you aren’t a throwback aesthetic kind of guy. If you love workwear or military style, a 36-millimeter field watch looks more authentic than a 45-millimeter one. If you love dress watches, well, even today, they’re the smallest category of watches.

They’re Stealthier and, Possibly, More Elegant

Not to invoke a trending TikTok hashtag. But, if you want to participate in the stealth wealth movement, bigger watches are not the move. Smaller Cartier Tanks exude old-world charm more than bigger Tanks do. And even if you go for an affordable Tank alternative, you’ll still achieve that look. After all, smaller watches are literally “stealthier” than bigger ones.

So, if you want to achieve that quiet luxury look but don’t have the budget, go for a small, elegant timepiece. In fact, gaudiness isn’t your friend if you want to look luxurious on a budget.

They’re More Versatile

Even if you don’t like small watches, you must admit they’re more versatile. Think about it. Let’s say you’re going to a professional networking event. Let’s say the dress code is strictly, conservatively, and traditionally business formal. Your best bet here is a dress watch or at least a simple one, right? The answer, by the way, is yes.

Now, what if you got suited up but forgot to change your watch? What if, horror upon horror, you show up at the event with a brawny Seamaster on a NATO strap?

Well, if it’s a 36-millimeter Seamaster, it wouldn’t be as big of a sartorial tragedy. Even better? The 28-millimeter ladies’ Seamaster. But if it were the 45-millimeter SuperOcean, you’d better put that in your pocket and go watchless.

Truly, smaller watches are far more adaptable than bigger ones because they’re more subtle, which leads me to my favorite point.

You Can Find New Ways To Wear Different Categories

This reason is directly related to versatility. I’m simply not a dress-watch guy. I have a gold, vintage Bulova dress watch just in case I wear a highly traditional dress code. So, do you know what I wear with my tuxedo or black-tie suit?

The previously mentioned women’s Omega Seamaster 300 Pro. It’s 28 millimeters, and unlike the MidSize version from its generation, it has applied indices. Since it’s a ladies’ watch, I guess they wanted to dress it up. The indices sparkle, mimicking a dress watch’s gemset, and the clasp is decorated. This is so the wearer can sport the dial on her (or his, in my case) inner wrist. And at 28 millimeters, it tucks beautifully into my sleeve like a traditional dress watch should.

Even more, this Seamaster is my wedding watch. I’m not a ring guy, either. So, I always wear this watch. No matter what. By wearing it on my inner wrist, I can also wear another timepiece alongside it without looking doubled-up. It’ll look like I’ve paired a decorated stainless steel bracelet with my watch (until my inner wrist is exposed. It’s like a fun secret).

Relatedly, you can look at the women’s watch section. Women’s versions of men’s watches are often smaller and don’t always incorporate traditionally feminine features. This is a great segway to my next point.

You Can Still Get the Bigger-is-Better Look With a Small Watch

This is for all of you bigger-is-better people out there. You don’t need to sacrifice comfort to achieve the brawny aesthetic. And again, I have nothing against big watches. Do you love a loud watch but have small wrists? Or, do you love an oversized, gaudy timepiece but hate how heavy it wears?

Go for a small watch with big features. Visual brawn can achieve what physical brawn does without taking up so much real estate on your wrist.

A good example is the 35-millimeter Rolex Yacht-Master. It has a thick bezel adorned with wide numbers and an overall athletic look. There’s no denying it’s got muscle to it. Yet, if you have a small wrist, it won’t look like you’re wearing the wrong size. And if you have a big wrist, it’ll wear more comfortably than some 50-millimeter deep-diver.

I love using Sean Connery as James Bond, as an example. Remember that his Submariner was only 38 millimeters. That’s the size that  “dainty” dress watches have usually been built in (until recently, thankfully). However, it’s the Big Crown Submariner. It has bold, sporty features. Sean Connery is well over six feet tall and a bodybuilder, yet this small watch still looks muscular on his wrist.

Men’s Watches for Small Wrists Should Fit Properly

And finally, they’re the objectively better choice if you have small wrists. Again, wear what you love. If you have a skinny wrist but love looking like a kid wearing your dad’s watch (I promise I mean that with no judgment — do you!), do it. I’m sure many small guys can pull it off with enough confidence!

However, if you want to look more classic, you always want your clothes and accessories to accommodate you naturally and comfortably.

In the same way that wearing 34″ inseam pants makes me look shorter than I am, wearing a huge watch will make my wrist and hand look smaller than they actually are. Unless you’re making a statement, a watch on a small wrist should be likewise small.

FAQs

If you still have questions about small timepieces, here are the most common!

How Do You Make a Watch Smaller?

While you can’t shrink a watch dial, you can usually adjust the bracelet or wristband. With metal links, you’ll often need a tool. If you want the watch to look smaller, try a bigger strap, like a Bund. The dial will look smaller in comparison.

Are Small Watches Coming Back in Style?

Yes, small watches are back in style. The groundswell started in the years leading up to 2020. Now, many brands are offering their tentpole models in smaller case sizes.

What Happens if a Watch Is Too Small?

If a watch is too small, it might look more “feminine.” However, this depends on the design of the watch, too. It might instead look more vintage or like you’re emulating an old-school cocktail watch.

Conclusion: Try a Small Watch Out

I’ve always been a proponent of men wearing small watches. I’m also a proponent of men trying out certain ladies’ watches, but one step at a time. Now’s the time if you’ve never considered going for a sub-40 timepiece. Again, we live in an era of diverse case sizes — which I fully welcome! So, if you’ve been historically insecure about how others might perceive smaller cases, that’s no longer an issue.

And now you know that smaller case sizes can be more practical and offer great style propositions.

Questions? Comments? Leave them in the comment below.