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The Timex Wind-Up Watch: America’s Mechanical

By Karlton Miko Tyack Updated June 12, 2024

Timex wind-up watches are more than just fun, attainable timepieces. Through history and models, past and present, let’s explore this important topic.

Source: Reddit

Many consider Timex a sort of analog Casio. And by that, I mean it’s a nostalgic name that’s still more than just a fashion watch brand. Many people’s childhood watches were either Casios or Timexes. 

But unless your dad was a stockpiler, it’s not likely your first timepiece was a vintage Timex wind-up watch. (If it was, contact me. I’d love to know what model it was.) The brand actually stopped making mechanicals for a few decades.

Timex is one of the most important figures in American watchmaking. And, there are few watchmakers today flaunting an American name. So truly, wind-up watch Timexes have a secret gravitas about them.

Table of Contents

  • Old Timex Wind-Up Watches: Why Are They Important?
  • Vintage Timex Watches 1960s
  • 1970s Timex Watches
  • 4 Timex Wind-Up Watches for Men
  • Conclusion: Truly Engaging Timex Watches

Old Timex Wind-Up Watches: Why Are They Important?

Back in 1857, the Waterbury Clock Company came onto the scenet. During that period, the Naugatuck Valley in Connecticut had the title of “Switzerland of America”. Today, we know this watchmaker as Timex.

Starting in the 1950s, Timex became the top watch producer in the United States. In fact, they made around half of all US watches. And, of course, since this was a pre-quartz revolution, all of the timepieces they made were mechanical.

Timex supplied tons of watches for the army during the Korean War. So, any Timex wind-up watch from this era would be highly durable and water resistant — at least for the time.

So, a vintage water-resistant watch from this age is representative of a time gone by. It was a time when America was in the watchmaking game. And a time when Timex was the king of American watchmaking.

Here are some Timexes from the ‘50s and earlier that may or may not be easy to find:

  • The Timex Nurse Watch, which, in 1945, was the first model to use the Timex name. You won’t be able to find one from the ‘40s as easily, but all of the ones made after that are manual-wind. They pop up on secondary markets occasionally.
  • The Timex Monroe was a unique dress watch due to its tank shape. The brand no longer participates in this market.

The Timex Sportster, which had versions built well into the ‘70s, is particularly distinct in its earlier iterations. The 1957 version had a gold-plated case, a black center dial, and gilt indices. If I could choose any old Timex for a reissue treatment like the Marlin, I would vote for this one.

Source: Vintage TImex Watches

Vintage Timex Watches 1960s

The 1960s was a particularly special time for Timex. It’s when the Marlin, as we know it, came out. It was also when the brand boasted of the top market share in the United States. 

Quartz would then decimate the mechanical game in the ‘70s and ‘80s. So, vintage Timex watches 1960s editions, to me, represent this short-lived yet important glory.

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A post shared by RAFA – Timex Vintage Mx 🇲🇽 (@timex.vintagemx)

Timex also started to build automatics as well, which many (and arguably still are) preferred to manual winds. I don’t necessarily agree but to each his own!

Timex often used their M24 base model movement. The Timex Skindiver, for example, came either with an M24 movement or an M25, which featured a date. The M32 was the automatic version of the M24.

In a time full of automatics, here are two of my favorite vintage Timex watches in 1960s manual winds:

  • The Timex Skindiver came out in 1966. It was a robust diver with an aluminum bezel insert. Earlier models were waterproof up to 180 meters, while later ones were up to 200. They come in men’s, women’s, and boy’s sizes. You have a range of vintage options based on your wrist size!
  • The 1960s Timex Marlin is a true icon. There is a recent reissue, though the original is a bit bigger at 36 millimeters instead of 34. It also had a waterproof stamp on the dial since the industry was less strict about what waterproof status actually meant.

1970s Timex Watches

Sadly, when it comes to 1970s Timex watches, there aren’t as many manual winds.

Source: ebay

Quartz watches came from Asia and were more accurate and much cheaper. Timex had to close and merge several worldwide headquarters. In fact, they cut their workforce down by 80%.

However, a few cool manual-wind Sportsters were around during the ‘70s. They’re just incredibly hard to find.

Then, in 1982, Timex stopped making mechanical watches.

Source: eBay

That is until 2017. Let’s take a look at some Timex wind-up watches for men that you can get today.

4 Timex Wind-Up Watches for Men

The good news is that you don’t have to dig through old Timex wind-up watches on the Internet to find Timex wind-up watches for men.

The Timex Marlin Reissue

This Timex Marlin is the model that brought the brand back into the mechanical game. Other than the cool factor of the original vintage, I actually prefer the reissue. 

Timex Marlin TW2R47900
Timex Marlin

It’s a literal copy and paste, from the silky dial to the intriguing index font. However, the 34-millimeter size is unique and comfortable on my wrist. It even comes with that swanky “lizard” leather strap.

The Timex Expedition North Field Mechanical

There are many reasons to love this Expedition North. Of course, there’s the engaging manual-wind movement.

Timex Expedition North Field Mechanical

But it’s a robust yet sophisticated field watch with accents and texture. Yet, it’s a versatile 38 millimeters. I love watches that use visual cues to communicate brawn instead of just making the case monstrous in size.

The Timex Marlin California Dial

The California dial version of the Marlin still has that ‘60s vibe about. It’s a little more understated and sleek.

Timex Marlin California Dial

That said, the mixed indices and green strap ensure it hasn’t abandoned the look-at-me factor we love about the original Marlin.

The Marlin Hand-Wound (Reference TW2V44700)

The 1969 remix of the Marlin inspired this version. It combines sporty sensibilities with the mixed-tone aesthetic. This aestheitc was ground-swelling in the late ‘60s before it became a staple in the ‘70s.

Timex Marlin

The simple lines still hold up today, being the most modern-looking Marlin reissue.

Conclusion: Truly Engaging Timex Watches

Here’s a controversial opinion. For the most part, the only automatic watches I truly love are the ones with exhibition case backs. I’m sure that makes me basic.

I’m not saying I don’t love my Explorer II. However, I don’t use watches to tell time. So, I love a timepiece I can get to know through engagement, whether physical or visual.

I’m personally glad that Timex is back in the manual-wind game since they make some really cool models.

What are some of your favorite Timex wind-up watches? Let me know in the comments below!

Categories: Watch Guides

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Karlton Miko Tyack

About Karlton Miko Tyack

A lifelong watch enthusiast, Karlton has worked with quality timepieces of all price points and calibers, vintage and contemporary. He was born in LA, studied art history in Boston, and is a lover of rugby, football, and optimism.

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