No winging it here! These are the brands creating the best flieger watches right now.
I’m going to go all out and make a bold statement here. The flieger watch is vastly underrated. And, before you say it, no, it’s not just a pilot’s watch. I mean, it’s a type of pilot’s watch, but not in the most straightforward sense. Confused much? Don’t be.
Let’s go back to basics. There are two broad categories of watch. One is the dress watch. A self-explanatory, elegant timepiece best served with smart attire that slips under the cuff. The other is the tool watch. This section has many sub-categories, some of which cross over into sports watch territory. Classifications of the tool watch can include GMT watches, chronographs, dive watches, and the pilot’s watch. Basically – any watches that serve a specific purpose!
The flieger watch is a tool watch, too. It has roots firmly anchored in military soil, which fundamentally sets it apart from any standard pilot’s watch. The word translates to “flier,” meaning pilot, but a basic aviation watch it certainly isn’t. Flieger watches were military timekeepers, also called B-Uhr (or observation watches). And guess what? They still make for great everyday watches. Wondering if you should make some room in your collection for one? Read this article to determine if this kind of pilot’s watch is for you.
What Is a Flieger Watch?
Just as the tool watch category branches into several sub-categories, so does the pilot’s watch. There’s everything from simple time-only mechanicals to fully-fledged high-tech wrist-mounted flight computers to choose from. (You’ve heard of the slide rule bezel, right?) All this variation poses one underlying question: “What is a flieger watch?”
In simple terms, these timepieces fulfilled a wartime need. They were large in diameter, made from steel or brass, and featured a vast, legible dial with a snap-style caseback. Many watches of this origin featured a matte black display to eliminate dial reflections. Other common characteristics included a legible 60-minute track, luminous hands, and hour markers. In addition to this, the 12 o’clock location would feature a triangular index at 12, flanked by two dots. This feature would serve as a reference point for the dial’s orientation.
All flieger watches developed during this period were almost identical. Some, like those made by IWC Schaffhausen, had anti-magnetic properties. Others had shock and impact-resistant components, such as the balance springs of a Lange watch. Those used by the Luftwaffe airmen had to be chronometer-certified, too.
Today, these watches still captivate and enthrall a niche audience, making them highly collectible amongst elite circles of watch enthusiasts. Reputable German brands like Stowa, Wempe, Laco, and A. Lange & Sohne still produce beautiful iterations. Amongst these German brands is IWC Schaffhausen, one of the most prolific flieger watch manufacturers, though not German. IWC offers a vast assortment of pilot’s watches. Many of these feature large cases, dial markers, and rivets on their straps that mimic the look of classic B-Uhr watches.
Origins of the Original Flieger Watch
If you’re familiar with the aviation watch, the history of the first pilot’s watch may ring a bell. Louis Cartier developed the Santos back in 1904 for his friend Alberto Santos-Dumont. His death-defying exploits soon put the watch on the radars of aviators near and far, but that’s not all. The Cartier Santos was also the first ever men’s wristwatch, and it just so happened to be very good-looking. Even so, pocket watches were the order of the day. That was, of course, until trench watches arrived during WWI. They were a type of pocket watch with a strap, finally making the man’s wristwatch culturally acceptable.
Between 1927 and 1937, watches specifically for use in the cockpit began emerging. IWC developed a watch with an arrow marker on the bezel for more accurate take-offs. Longines also jumped on board, producing the Hour Angle, which could calculate longitude whilst air-bound. Soon, each different air force around the world had a manufacturer producing instruments for it. The Americans used Hamilton and Bulova. The British turned to brands like Omega, Longines, Jaeger-LeCoultre, and IWC. The Germans were using pilot’s watches manufactured by Laco, Stowa, Wempe, and A. Lange & Sohne.
Known as observer watches, B-Uhr watches were developed exclusively for the Luftwaffe. As per the strict demands of the German Imperial Air Ministry (the Reichsluftfahrtministerium (RLM), they had to tick all the right boxes. These flieger pilot watches had to be highly legible, very practical, and very large. A 55mm diameter is practically unheard of today. But back then, all flieger watches were large. Their radium-painted hands, though toxic, provided superb legibility in dark conditions. Moreover, they could wrap around a thick pilot’s jacket, no bother.
Type A and Type B Flieger Watch Dials
So, we know that flieger watches assisted the wartime efforts of WWII. We also know they had to be practical and legible. They were large because they carried in-house pocket watch movements. Similar in design to the Dirty Dozen field watches produced for the British Armed Forces, only a select few companies could make them. But here’s where things get even more interesting; there were two types.
We can categorize flieger watches into Type A and Type B models. The earliest are those that we call the Type A classification. Having the two different classifications helps us identify one from the other, but don’t worry, it’s not complicated. The differences lie in the dial arrangement. Type A watches have a simpler dial, featuring Arabic numeral hour markers ranging from 1 to 11. The 12 o’clock location, as mentioned, features the triangular marker with the two orientation dots. Type B Flieger watches are those that arrived during the early 1940s. They feature a small inner ring for the hour markers and a larger outer scale for the double-digit minutes. A closer look reveals modifications to the 12 o’clock marker as well. These Type B watches have an arrow marker instead of a triangular one.
Prominent Flieger Watch Brands
They may not be the behemoths they once were; that much is true (they’re no longer designed to fit over an aviation jacket, that’s for sure). But modern Flieger-style watches combine all the characteristics of a much-loved classic with modern proportions for daily wear. The flieger watch brands we list in this article are still in force, doing what they do best: capturing the niche pilot watch design with modern materials and features.
Below, we will list some of the most prominent names in the industry that specialize in these watches, whether they are of German origin or not. The list, of course, is not exhaustive. But this handful of brands are getting it right, perfectly blending style, materials, and technology. The models vary in price, too, so there’s certainly a design for every kind of collector, new or experienced. First, let’s start with a look at the benchmark designs German-based brands are offering.
German Flieger Watch Manufacturers
When shopping for a flieger watch, you can’t do better than a German watch brand. After all, German flieger watch manufacturers were the original creators of this watch style. Let’s look at some brands specializing in this unique-looking pilot’s watch and their most popular models.
Archimede With the Pilot 392
Similar to other German watch brands like Sinn, Ickler, the owner of Archimede, began as a case manufacturer for different companies. In particular, the company’s “Ickler cases” still prove popular with vintage watch collectors. The Pilot 39 is an Archimede-stamped watch. It can come in bronze or steel and have a crown at 9 o’clock for left-handed wearers. This compact pilot’s watch has classic blue-trimmed hands, filled with plenty of lume to mimic earlier Flieger watches of the past.
Laco With the Pilot’s Watch Original Dortmund Erbstuck
This wouldn’t be a flieger watch guide if we didn’t include a masterpiece from Laco. If you know anything about flieger watches, you’ll recognize this name. The brand creates watches inspired by the original flieger watches – the 55mm 1940s observation watches of yesteryear. But if you have small wrists, you’ll be glad to hear they don’t share the same imposing size. The Dortmund Erbstuck undergoes a unique Laco process that gives it a patina. Meanwhile, the dial takes on the Type B format. Cool or what?
Stowa With the Flieger Classic 36
The great thing about modern-day flieger watches is that they no longer have to be big. This Stowa Flieger Classic 36mm is a perfect option for less-endowed wrists. This quietly confident watch hits differently in a culture where stealth wealth watches are becoming more desirable by the minute. Flieger watch expert Stowa strips everything back to basics with this pilot’s watch. The black dial is simple, punctuated by stark white luminous Arabic numerals, and boasts contrasting blue accents. Wherever and however you wear the Stowa Flieger Classic watch, uncompromised accuracy is a guarantee. The watch works on a Sellita movement with decorative finishes that you can even view through the back.
Sinn With the 356 Pilot
Sinn watches like this 356 Pilot take inspiration from early flieger watches and continue the evolution of the 256 Pilot. Seiko developed that one for the Japanese market. This model has a bead-blasted stainless steel case that’s 100-meter water resistant, complying with DIN 8310 standards. Measuring 38.5mm in diameter, it’s also a sweet spot for those with small wrists. Over the years, Sinn has achieved many technical feats in watchmaking. Some of those it applies to fliger-inspired watches like this. The watch features a tough sapphire crystal glass and is resistant to low pressure and temperature fluctuations. Superb materials continue into the strap with a premium black leather band for an undeniably classic look.
International Flieger Watch Brands
Flieger watches have outgrown their roots on German soil and their origins as WWII tools. Although they initially served a purpose in the cockpit, many still love their unique style. Since there is still a demand for these watches, manufacturers continue producing them. Surprisingly, there are only a select few names you’ll likely know. While Laco, Stowa, and Sinn produce some of the most common German flieger watches, companies worldwide have focused on making them. Here are some names you may recognize.
IWC Pilot’s Watch Mark XX
IWC has to be the master of all non-German flieger watch designs. Its timepieces take inspiration from the precise amagnetic watches the brand developed for the British Royal Air Force in the 1930s. With 120 hours of power reserve, an in-house movement, and the triangular index at 12H, the cockpit is the Mark XX watch’s natural habitat. Of course, IWC’s range of pilot watches is absolutely huge. If you want premium materials and don’t mind paying a little more, IWC’s industry-leading engineering wins hands down.
Orient With the RA-AC0H03B10A
Orient may be a surprising choice, but the Japanese brand smashes the vintage-style pilot’s watch right out of the park with the RA-AC0H03B10A. Quality materials, a powerhouse movement, and a well-lumed watch are all a given, and the Type B layout really looks the part. Orient even chooses off-white colored numerals for an extra age-old finish. It also makes for an affordable value proposition at such an enticing price.
Bulova With the Bulova A-15 Pilot
You can’t go wrong with a classic black flieger watch, and Bulova somehow manages to pull the design off seamlessly. The A-15 Pilot watch is neither too vintage-looking nor too modern. This 42mm watch captures the large size of the 55mm observation watches, counteracting it with tapering lugs. The brushed surface on the steel case donates added charm to the wrist, as does the brown vintage-looking leather strap. Piercing the black and white dial is a yellow 24-hour track, giving the watch a subtle field watch aesthetic.
Seiko With the 5 SRPH29
Japanese watch brand Seiko made the SRPH29 watch collection for those who like to revisit the past. With its khaki green dial and easy grip bezel, this Seiko flieger watch definitely gives off-field watch vibes. Straddling the line between a sports watch and a pilot’s watch, the 39.4mm model combines a steel case with a canvas strap. In doing so, it becomes a comfortable, casual, military-inspired model that doesn’t cost the earth. Seiko injects zesty orange accents at the cardinal points while also equipping it with a day-date feature.
Citizen With the CO-Drove Avion
Yes, you’re reading this right. Citizen does a good flieger watch. The Japanese brand may not be the first to come to mind when considering international flieger watch brands. However, the Eco-Drive Avion definitely cuts the mustard in military pilot watch design. Its matte black dial looks almost grey in some lights, yet its legibility is just as good as any. Orange-red hues pick out the hour track and correlating hour hand, while a beige minute scale hints at vintage hues of the past. The retrograde date, intertwined with the hour scale, is another nice touch. Moreover, this watch features Citizen’s innovative Eco-Drive technology, with a battery that recharges under any light source.
Advancements in Automatic Flieger Watches
From their use as military and aviation tools to the collector’s items they now are, flieger watches have evolved a lot. Advancements in technology and materials show just how far these watches have come from the early days.
The flieger watch already has its future mapped out for it before it even made it to the wrist. They were to be durable, highly readable, and functional. That was the purpose of their robust steel case, large dials, and luminous features. That much is still true for the modern iteration, even though it’s a much smaller aviation watch. Still, tracing the journey of the flieger watch is fascinating, especially when we look at mid-20th-century designs. The emergence of new styles reflected a shift in consumer needs, not just military ones.
After WWII, the appeal of the flieger watch extended far beyond military use. Civilians became interested in the style and knew the design had proven effective for practical tasks. This transitional period marked the shift of the flieger watch from a military tool to a civilian watch. Brands like Sinn, IWC, and Lange & Sohne capitalized on this. Extending on their popular pilot’s watches, these manufacturers began catering to a broader market.
Modern adaptations show how this watch style has undergone refinement over recent years. Some automatic flieger watches feature chronographs; others feature day-date functions. Even so, they retain the essential design codes of the flieger watch, albeit in smaller sizes.
Thanks to innovations like ceramic cases and anti-magnetic movements, pilot watches are more functional than ever before. Back during the zeitgeist of the 1930s pilot watch, the idea of a solar-powered watch would have been unthinkable. Modern aviation watches now promise ergonomic refinement and appeal to enthusiasts for their historical significance. They are symbols of precision, style, and adventure.
Of course, the vintage models from the flieger genre demand the highest prices among enthusiasts. Collectors enjoy a tangible connection to the past and often pay prices higher than new models demand. Contemporary brands continue to pay homage to classic designs of the past, allowing fans to enjoy both old and new interpretations. And now, they’re incredibly versatile, with more strap options and dial colors than a century ago. Collectors can wear one to add a touch of vintage charm to practically every outfit they own.
Flieger Watch Straps and Accessories
Many modern straps for pilot watches take on the vintage appeal of their ancestors. Bund straps and B-Uhren straps make a flieger watch look ultra-vintage, giving these tools an old-world charm. The great thing about today’s market is that it’s brimming with different strap options!
The bund strap was a practical option for wristwatches during WWI, protecting the wrist from the metal case. Cases could get hot if exposed to fire in the cockpit, so it made a lot of sense back then. Today, people purely enjoy them for their vintage-esque appeal. Think Paul Newman’s Daytona on the bund strap, which looked uber cool! It’s easy to source vintage or calf leather bund straps at various prices today.
The NATO Strap, AKA the “G10,” became a thing when British army soldiers began using them. They were comfortable, practical, and stylish. The original NATO strap (don’t confuse this with the Zulu strap) is a single piece of material with a fixed metal buckle. Nowadays, you can enjoy these flieger watch straps in leather form and nylon or fabric. One of the key advantages of wearing a flieger watch on a NATO strap is the ease of alternating your band quickly and effortlessly. You pull the band through the back of the case underneath the spring bars, then secure it with the metal keepers. Configurations are super easy and fun with these straps.
B-Uhren straps are the most common type of band on a flieger watch. One of the specifications of the earliest models was an extra-long riveted strap that could attach the watch to the wrist atop a pilot jacket. The rivets situated below the lugs ensured this. Brands still employed today, namely IWC.
Conclusion: The Enduring Appeal of Flieger Watches
The pilot watch has vastly evolved over the last century. Technological advancements in movements and materials have enabled us to enjoy aviation watches in ways we never knew we could. Precise timings, fuel consumption calculations, and anti-fogging technology are just a few examples. One thing hasn’t changed, however — the nostalgic, retro-inspired aesthetic of the flieger watch.
Flieger watch collectors have and will always adore the vintage appearance of these special cockpit tools. What’s more, their practical merits as a daily beater serve them well today, getting lots of wrist time. The evolution of this type of aviation watch is a testament to the enduring legacy of the pilot’s watch. Even in today’s age, when we no longer have to rely on flieger watches whilst flying, we still love them.
It doesn’t matter whether you’re an aviation enthusiast, a pilot watch collector, or neither. Flieger watches are out there for everyone to enjoy. And available at every price budget, there’s no excuse not to add one to your growing collection.
What flieger brand would you recommend to a novice looking to buy one for the first time? Leave your comments below and share your thoughts on this unique style of pilot’s watch. Oh, and don’t forget to sign up for our newsletter at The Slender Wrist today.
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