In the watch world, the skeletonized movement is a true marvel. Here’s what you need to know about them!
The skeletonized movement combines the engineering side of the watch world with its artistic side. Did you know that it happens to go far back in history, too?
Yep, in addition to looking cool (and being an excellent conversation piece), skeletonized watch movements have been around for quite some time.
So that’s all the boxes checked. Aesthetics, horology, and history. Why else do we collect watches? And I know a lot of you are big fans of the skeleton watch.
When you’re done learning all about them, make sure to check out our round-up of some of the best models!
Let’s have it!
Table of Contents
The Skeletonized Watch Movement: What Is It?
Basically, a skeleton watch is a mechanical timepiece in which you can see the movement on the front dial. Watchmakers do this by removing any dispensable parts of the dial face that may cover up the movement.
Essentially, you’re removing the dial face. Of course, this makes the protective glass even more important.
Again, as we mention in our guide to watch movements, a movement is the heart of the timepiece. It’s the timekeeping device that powers the watch and also operates any complications.
On a skeleton dial, you can see the springs, escapement, gears, and the entire elaborate movement design. This gives it a gadgety aesthetic, but depending on how it’s decorated, it can also look fairly romantic and ethereal or even steampunk and industrial.
As a quick reminder, the balance wheel regulates the timekeeping, while the escapement helps release power, as the mainspring keeps the energy stored. It’s a whole system!
Skeletonized Movement Designs
If you can see the entire timekeeping system, you’re looking at a true skeleton watch. It’s the most pared-down movement, though there are different variations.
If the automatic watch (or any mechanical, really) features a dial with cut-outs, it’s what we call open-working. You see bits and pieces, perhaps even most of it, but not all of it.
If the movement designers added an aperture to the dial so you can peek into the movement in one specific place, that’s called an open heart.
And finally, if you can only see the movement from behind, that’s called an exhibition case back.
A History of the Skeleton Watch Movement
Skeleton watches were invented in the 1700s. We were deep into the Age of Enlightenment, and people were feeling more innovative.
The first-ever skeleton movement on a watch is probably the one André Charles Caron created. Charles Caron was a French watchmaker who started designing his pocket watches without the dial.
His customers loved that they were able to see all of the machinery, but the skeleton watch didn’t catch on immediately.
What did catch on, however, was the idea of removing excess parts from a movement. Many watchmakers started to experiment with paring down their movements and creating extra skinny variants, and thus, extra thin watch cases.
This led to wristwatches, which were first worn by women exclusively.
We at TSW are certainly grateful for extra skinny watches.
The Rise of the Skeleton Clock
Before skeleton wristwatches became popular, skeleton clocks started to gain traction in France during the twilight of the 18th century.
English watchmakers also started to get in on the trend, to a lesser extent. John Joseph Merlin’s skeleton clock from 1776 is particularly famous, as is Sir William Congreve’s 1808 clock. Congreve’s clock, which features a uniquely detached escapement, is actually in the Royal Collection.
In the 1820s, the skeleton clock became popular in France and then England. Clockmakers associated with the design include James Condliff, based in Liverpool, and John Smith & Sons from Clerkenwell.
This design started to grace cathedrals in England, for example, the ones in Lichfield and York Minster.
And, of course, since the powerful and influential loved the look so much, the skeleton watch caught on. Not everyone can afford gigantic clocks in their country homes. Wristwatches were definitely more attainable.
Plus, the tourbillon was invented in 1801. As a cage for a watch’s movement, this complex and beautiful contraption was a visual feast.
Who wouldn’t want to see that?
As such, the skeleton tourbillon movement caught the attention of many.
FAQs
Still, have questions about skeleton movements? Here are a few oft-asked ones and some at-a-glance wrap-ups!
What Is a Skeletonized Movement?
One in which the dial is fully removed so you can see the movement at work. There are also open-work watches with some parts of the dial removed and an open heart that features just one aperture.
Are Skeleton Watches a Good Investment?
Being a skeleton watch doesn’t affect a model’s investment value. However, there are a few models that Cartier and Patek make that are generally good or safe investments.
What Are the Benefits of a Skeleton Watch?
They provide a unique look and allow you to see the movement at work. It’s a cool feature for the horologically curious.
Conclusion: Through the Glass
I think that skeleton watches really display the intricacies and craft of watchmaking.
I don’t have any in my collection, but I’m not opposed to them. It’s all about finding the right one — and again, they come in a wide range of styles.
If you want to dive deeper into the skeleton timekeeping rabbit hole, there are some great manuals and engineering journals out there. Start with John Wilding, a UK watchmaker who wrote several pieces of literature on the topic, and Bill Smith, his American equivalent.
See where Google takes you from there!
What do you love about skeleton watches? Do you like the more elegant-looking ones or the sportier gadget-forward ones? Sound off in the comments!
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