There are countless types of watch bracelets available. I’ll comprehensively cover each from a practical and style-oriented perspective.
Knowing about and owning several watch bracelet types is such an easy style hack. I’ve always said that having several straps can turn one of your watches into three or even five.
An Omega Speedmaster leans more into its racer routes on a rally strap. Then, with its round-linked stainless steel bracelet, it’s the Moonwatch again.
Plus, if you know how to change your bracelet, that’s technically a watch modding. So, you can technically call yourself a modder.
Today, I’m going to take you on a tour of every type of strap for your timepiece.
Table of Contents
7 Watch Bracelet Types: Materials
Let’s start by acknowledging all of the different types of materials bracelets can be made out of. Metal watch bands are one of the most common, especially with everyday sports watches.
However, aesthetically, they can be sporty, dressy, or everyday casual, depending on the design of the bracelet itself.
Stainless Steel Bracelets
Most metal bracelets are stainless steel, an alloy of steel. This means it’s a metal mixture. However, not all stainless steel is made alike.
304 Stainless Steel
The cheapest budget watches often employ 304 stainless steel. It’s affordable and easy to mold, but it’s the most likely to corrode.
Its formula also contains more carbon, which gives it a darker color and less sheen. This isn’t necessarily a bad thing if you like a matte aesthetic.
316 and 316L Stainless Steel
The 316 family of stainless steel is the most common, and it’s used in a wide range of metal watch bracelets.
Its formula contains molybdenum, which makes it resistant to acids and corrosion. As such, 316 stainless steel has an alternative name — surgical steel.
316L is almost the same as 316, except it has far less carbon. The L actually stands for “low”, referring to its carbon content. So, it’s even more corrosion-resistant.
While both 316s are considered marine grade, the 316Ls are more often used for premium dive watches.
904L Stainless Steel
904L is by far the most high-end stainless steel. Most upscale Swiss brands use them for their watches. It has more chromium and molybdenum, making it the most corrosion-resistant and also the shiniest.
Rolex even has its leveled-up version of 904L, Oystersteel, which contains even more chromium and even less carbon.
Titanium Bracelets
Titanium is often stronger and more scratch-resistant than stainless steel. However, it’s about half the weight. Even more, it’s hypoallergenic. This is why most consider titanium “up-chargeable” in the watch world.
If you have a sensitive metal allergy or prefer a lighter-wearing watch, go for titanium.
Precious Metals
The most common precious metal used for watch bracelets is gold in all its forms (yellow, white, pink). Precious metals make any style of bracelet look more formal or at least fancier.
A steel oyster has an everyday look to it. On the other hand, a steel and yellow gold oyster has a dressier feel.
Platinum is rarely used to make watch bracelets. However, if you’re willing to spend the premium for one, they’re a more scratch-resistant option over stainless steel. They’ll also patinate over time, developing a unique character based on your wearing habits.
Leather Straps
While leather straps traditionally pair well with dress watches, this really depends on the design. A leather bracelet might be very casual or highly formal.
Most leather is made of cowhides. Calfskin is softer with a tighter grain, light, and scratch-resistant, but it isn’t as durable as a regular cow.
Lambskin leather is a premium option. It’s more supple and lighter than cow leather.
Shell cordovan is a premium equine leather. It’s incredibly durable and tends to ripple instead of crease.
Of course, exotic leathers are available. However, these are more consequential to the style aspects of the watch strap than the practical aspects.
It’s also important to know the different kinds and grades of leather.
Full-Grain Leather
You want full-grain leather whenever you can get it. It’s made from the top part of the hide, which is the strongest and most supple. It boasts all of the natural grains, and it ages beautifully.
Top-Grain Leather
Top-grain leather has been sanded down for a uniform appearance. This is the second-highest quality of leather, which is partly why imperfections are removed.
If you like a more sterile aesthetic, go for top-grain over full-grain. It has that clean look, and it’s not as expensive. Just keep in mind that it isn’t as strong, either.
Genuine Leather
Genuine leather is made from the middle part of the hide. It’s naturally stiffer and colder, though many brands treat and dye it to make it look better. Still, it’s not as strong as full-grain.
You’ll sometimes hear it called split-grain leather or premium leather, but it’s definitely more of a budget option.
Bonded Leather
This means it’s half fake and half animal hide. If you can, avoid it and fake leather.
Suede and Nubuck Straps
Suede is technically leather, but its napped appearance makes it more rugged-looking. Again, it all depends on the strap’s design.
Nubuck uses the top part of the hide but sanded down to create a fibrous texture. It looks like something in between velvet and suede, making it both elegant and rugged.
Something you should know about suede and nubuck is that they aren’t naturally waterproof. However, some brands treat them to up the resistance.
There are also fake suedes on the market, including microsuede and sueded cotton.
Nylon and Perlon Straps
Nylon is strong, comfortable, water-resistant, and breathable. It’s also pretty easy to clean, which is why it’s the go-to strap for practicalists and military-style watches.
It often has a utilitarian look. However, there are options that combine nylon with rayon to build almost leather-looking straps.
Perlon is a type of nylon in which the fibers are linked into rings, resulting in an even stronger composition.
Rubber Straps
Rubber straps are flexible and durable and are often paired with divers.
Natural rubber is extra soft and eco-friendly. However, prolonged sun exposure will cause it to degrade.
Silicone is a lightweight option that comes in a lot of colors, though it can be sticky and difficult to clean.
Polyurethane is the most durable option, though it can start rigid and uncomfortable.
Watch Bracelets: Designs
Here’s a list of watch bracelet design types and what styles they’re good for.
Oyster Bracelet
Oyster bracelets are good for casual wear, everyday wear, and sporty watches. However, with precious metals, they have a more striking look.
Traditionalists wouldn’t wear it with a tuxedo but perhaps with a fancier business suit.
Jubilee Bracelet
A jubilee bracelet is good for upscale everyday wear.
It adds a striking sparkle to your sports watch and some muscle to your dress watch.
President Bracelet
The president is a more commanding version of the oyster. Go for it if you’re a fan of power dressing.
Mesh Bracelet
Go for this if you want your watch to have a jewelry-like look.
It goes with casual or dress watches.
Bund Strap
A bund strap pairs most naturally with an aviator watch.
However, it can add a cool, adventurous look to any casual watch.
Exotic Leather Straps
Crocodile or snakeskin leather straps go great with with dress watches. It can even upgrade a minimal, everyday watch into something more formal. You can pair it with a sports watch, but it would definitely be a high-low aesthetic.
Simple Leather Strap
You can wear simple leather straps casually or formally. Ones with unfinished edges are casual, while tapered straps look dressier.
Rally Strap
A rally strap pairs best with a racing watch, especially a chronograph.
However, you can wear it with any sports watch or casual watch.
NATO or Zulu
NATOs and Zulus are definitely more casual. Wear them with sports watches, military watches, and casual everyday watches.
Tropic Strap
Tropic straps are casual and pair perfectly with divers. However, there are some tapered, elegant tropic straps on the market.
How To Resize a Watch Bracelet
To resize a metal watch bracelet, you first need to size and measure it properly.
If your bracelet is too big, start by putting your watch on. Then, count how many links there are on the slack.
If it’s too small, measure how many millimeters one link is. Measure the circumference of the closed bracelet, then the size of your wrist.
Subtract the bracelet size from your wrist size. You’ll need to order the number of links to make up the difference — always round up instead of down.
Look at the links on the bracelet. If there aren’t pins on the sides, it means you can’t remove or add to those links.
How To Adjust a Watch Bracelet
The most common bracelet features straight pins. To adjust a watch bracelet, you’ll need a push pin, a working block, and a hammer.
Take a look at each side of the links. Both sides have holes, though one side features smaller holes. Place the bracelet, this side up, on the block. The smaller hole should face you.
Place the push pin on the hole so it touches the pin. Then, use the hammer to gently tap the top of the push pin so that the bracelet pin comes out the other side. You’ll then pull it out.
Add or remove the extra links as needed.
Conclusion: Feel Free To Seek a Professional
And at the end of the day, don’t be afraid to just go to your local watch shop or servicer. I’ve personally never changed my metal bracelets.
Also, many watch boutiques have style consultants to help you with the aesthetic perspective.
Got questions about watch bracelet types? Comments? Let me know!
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