Today, we’re going all in on the modest CWC watch. Find out why I consider the Cabot Watch Company an old faithful when it comes to good, functional design.
There’s something so classic man, about CWC watches. They’re stoic, strong, and they’ve served their country. They’re like the horological manifestation of one’s beloved grandfather. And truly, they just don’t make watches like this anymore.
Call it their British stiff upper lip.
Cabot Watch Company uses the well-built, tried-and-true field watch as their tentpole template. And I’ve always said that traditional field watches are the distillation of a good, honest watch.
Through their history and some spotlit models, let’s learn more about these practical and incidentally stylish watches.
Cabot Watch Company: A History in Practicality
There’s nothing particularly romantic about how Cabot Watch Company came about. No Mount Everest climbs or huge celebrity associations. But therein lies its superpower. It came about because of a need in the market, which they answered with pragmatic craft instead of marketing.
Ray Mellor, who served in the Merchant Navy during World War II, worked for Hamilton in the UK. In the age of quartz watches, many watch brands were ceasing their contracts with the Ministry of Defense (MOD). They just weren’t as profitable as they used to be.
Mellor negotiated MOD contracts for Hamilton. As such, he figured he had the know-how to fill the gap left behind by these defunct partnerships. In 1972, he founded Cabot Watch & Clock, later renamed to CWC. He named his company after the famed 15th-century explorer John Cabot.
And, of course, his focus was Swiss-made watches, tough enough for the Ministry of Defense.
The CWC Military Watch: Strict Specifications Make for a Topnotch Build
Naturally, Mellor managed to close contracts with the British Royal Air Force, Army, and Navy. This origin ensures that every CWC military watch is spec-forward, even today.
Ironically, he didn’t introduce CWC diver watches into the mix until 1980. Omegas and Rolexes were the MOD’s go-to brands for divers for a very long time. However, they eventually priced themselves out of their contracts. And again, CWC filled the gap.
It should come as no surprise that the Ministry of Defense had, and has, strict standards for their equipment.
CWC supplied the MOD with its General Service model field watch and pilot watch, both of which ran on Swiss workhorse movements. Today, the pilot has a cult following because of its asymmetrical chronograph design.
For the diver, the MOD received a rugged automatic with a beveled, swerved case, underneath ticked the brawny ETA 2783 movement. This watch featured sword hands and tritium lume.
CWC only supplied the automatic Royal Navy Diver for two and a half years. As many brands did in the ‘80s, CWC eventually started outfitting their timepieces with quartz movements. In collectability terms, some argue that this change puts the automatic Royal Navy Diver in league with the Rolex MilSub.
From the Ministry of Defense to the Public
CWC never intended to sell its timepieces commercially, which is one reason its watches are so special. That’s also part of why it doesn’t market the way the Rolexes and Omegas of the world do.
However, in the ‘90s, Silverman’s, a military supplier in London, bought CWC stock from Mellor to sell to the public. When Mellor pseudo-retired, they took over CWC.
Mellor stayed in the loop as a director. This is likely why CWC has stayed true to its utilitarian roots even as it went into the mass market.
Cool CWC Models
Since CWC takes from its archives, you get many options that are slender-wrist-friendly yet still robust and durable. In fact, the CWC G10 is one of our favorite 38-millimeter watches.
Here are a few of our other favorite CWC watches.
CWC Field Watch: G22
As far as the CWC Field Watch design goes, the G22 is a lot like the G10. However, it’s half a millimeter bigger in diameter and a millimeter taller on your wrist.
This partly has to do with the fact it runs on a 26-jewel automatic movement. This movement from Sellita provides a smooth secondhand sweep.
It sports that classic CWC aesthetic, from fixed bar lugs to a vintage edge blur provided by the acrylic crystal.
- Dimensions: 38.5mm diameter, 11mm thickness
- Case Material: Stainless steel
- Water resistance: 50m
I also like how the case sits somewhere between matte and shine.
CWC Automatic Watch: 1980 Royal Navy Diver Reissue
Based on the design that got CWC into the MOD, the historical 1980 Royal Navy Diver Reissue has a fun, dimensional, and brawny look.
I’d say it’s one of the best, if not the best, alternatives to the Rolex MilSub.
It’s essentially just as rare but a lot less expensive if you can get your hands on it.
- Dimensions: 41mm diameter, 12.7mm thickness
- Case Material: Stainless steel
- Water resistance: 300m
This CWC automatic watch features sapphire glass and Swiss movement.
CWC Mechanical Watch: Mellor 72 Mechanical
The Mellor 72 is probably my favorite CWC watch. It’s a blast from the past, even sporting the original CWC logo.
The tonneau case is undeniably distinguished, especially combined with the fixed lug bars that are so quintessential to the brand.
- Dimensions: 38mm diameter, 11mm thickness
- Case Material: Stainless steel
- Water resistance: 50m
Even more, it’s powered by a hand-wound mechanical, which adds a tactile engagement factor. I think hand winding is a great way to get to know your watch.
CEC Pilot Watch: 7733 Pilot Chronograph
The ultra-rare Pilot Chronograph runs on the hard-to-find 7733 Valjoux movement.
So, in addition to being an efficiently designed chrono, it’s a genuine collectible. You’d likely always be the only person in a room wearing it.
Design-wise, the sword hands, oversized 12 and 6, and the lollipop hour markers do an excellent job of providing legibility. There’s plenty going on in the dial, which makes it exciting to look at.
- Dimensions: 40mm diameter, 12mm thickness
- Case Material: Stainless steel
- Water resistance: 30m
However, the clever arrangement ensures it’s still practical and offers easy timekeeping.
CWC Diver Watch: SBS Quartz Diver
The Special Boat Services version of the CWC Diver features a black dial, case, and bezel.
It boasts a truly commanding look. With this muscular and well-composed construction, I think it’s one of the most authoritative all-black divers on the market.
- Dimensions: 40mm diameter, 12mm thickness
- Case Material: Stainless steel
- Water resistance: 30m
It’s also rare to boot. Between that and its impressive specs, this watch is as striking as it is a conversation piece.
CWC Watches Conclusion: Brand Heritage Minus the Glitz
There are loads of military-issued watches on the market. I’d say a CWC military watch is one of the most honorable options on the market.
Since CWC hasn’t been available to the public for so long, you’re hard-pressed to see a big marketing push or celebrity endorsement. Not that good marketing or product placement is particularly unhonorable, but the appeal of CWC is its lack of pretenses.
They’re true military instruments with a true military heritage.
Are you a fan of CWC watches or military watches in general? What are your favorite models, CWC or otherwise? Why? We love hearing from you so let us know your thoughts! And don’t forget to subscribe to our newsletter to get curated watch content from our editors and experts!
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