With all of their attainably priced options, you may have asked yourself, “Is Seiko a good watch brand?” Here’s the answer.
Japanese brand Seiko is known for many things. The Seiko 5 line is a cheat code for affordable mechanicals. Through its SKX models, it’s a go-to for solid, entry-level tool watches. It’s also a go-to for modders, both beginners and advanced. So clearly, Seiko seems to focus on basics, affordability, and entry-level attainability. This may beg the question: Are Seiko watches good?
First, good watches exist at all price points. A watch can be good, whether it’s basic or complex. Second, Seiko has done a respectable job of entering a wide price range, though the sub-500 category is a large part of its core line. We’ll dig into all of this as we explore the quality of this prolific brand.
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Are Seiko Watches Good?
In general, yes, Seiko watches are quite good. And since the word “good” is subjective, here’s an objective way to describe the brand. Seiko is definitely efficient and, for the most part, honestly priced overall. As with any large manufacturer, there are occasional quality control issues with their budget pieces.
Still, you’d be hard-pressed to find a sub-300 timepiece with an automatic house movement outside of Seiko. They offer a low barrier to entry because they often use older, paid-off parts and tooling for their cheaper pieces. If they were charging $1,000 for this, it would be offensive. But they aren’t. This is true efficiency, and it allows them to fund their higher-end lines too.
Seiko has a long history of democratizing timekeeping, which is probably why many other budget brands use Seiko movements.
Seiko’s Horological Chops on All Levels
Japanese watchmaking is a lot like the Japanese whiskey industry. Or rather, Seiko specifically is. Seiko started as a student, learning and copying Swiss watchmaking’s best practices, just as Japanese whiskey did with the Scots. Then, each took their education and went in new, Japanese-born directions. Japan has a knack for doing this. Do you know tempura originated in Portugal?
So, entry-level Seiko watches represent the workhorse mentality of the brand’s origins. They have automatic movement, a solid build, and a straightforward design language. The funny thing is, you’ll still find icons in this category. For example, the SKX007 was once a go-to cheap diver and is now a celebrated model in its own right. Though its 7S26 automatic isn’t at all advanced by today’s standards, few people choose to upgrade their SKX’s movement. It’s considered a “heritage movement.”
Sure, margins are highly considered in the budget and lower mid-tier categories, but they’re certainly making the most of what they have.
High-End Seikos?
Seiko’s success selling workhorses and cheap but solid alternatives allowed them to get creative. They launched Grand Seiko in 1960, which is a legitimate luxury brand. They even build their quartz watches with internally-grown quartz crystals that are hand-picked. Just check out the Grand Seiko “Snowflake.”
However, Grand Seiko has since broken off as, technically, its own brand. Core Seiko now uses its Presage line as an outlet for its higher-end models. I wouldn’t call Presage watches “luxury” per se. Perhaps affordable luxury is a better term, though that phrase is subjective. The Presage line is a good choice for well-made dress watches that balance uniqueness with classic design cues.
Regarding “higher-end” core Seikos, they tend to focus more on spec-forward sports watches. You can find some impressive, all but bullet-proof Prospex watches in the $1,000 price range.
Movements and Construction
Seiko does everything, from solar watches to quartz watches to low-end mechanicals and more sophisticated automatics. Most Prospex and many Seiko 5 watches (the brand’s entry-level mechanical line) run on the 4R series. I’m referring to calibers 4R35, 4R36, 4R37, and 4R38. These are similar to the older 726S, which I previously mentioned powers the SKX007. However, Seiko upgraded them with winding and hacking. Meanwhile, Caliber 4R15 is exactly like the 7S26 but has a 50-hour power reserve instead of 41 hours.
Many Presage watches run on 6R movements. The 6R15 boasts a hacking lever, a hand-winding bridge, and a 50-hour power reserve. Prior to 2017, aka before Grand Seiko became independent, some mid-tier core Seikos featured this movement. These days, however, it’s reserved for the more advanced sublines like Presage and Essence.
By the way, this is why many watch enthusiasts seek out the SARB033. It represents a time before the 6R was so strictly siloed.
Seiko’s Materials
I’ve already mentioned that Seiko builds a solid watch. Want an ISO-compliant diver? An accurate solar? They’ll have it. They often use 316L stainless steel for their cases. It’s pretty standard but strong, anti-magnetic, and generally corrosion-resistant. It’s also low in carbon, which helps prevent heat damage and rusting.
Seiko’s biggest weakness is the rattly bracelets it uses for its core watches. The stamped components feel absolutely hollow, and the long links make the bracelets challenging to adjust. The leather straps are also pretty mediocre. Since switching out bracelets is easy, this isn’t particularly offensive. I’d rather they spend their limited budget on case construction and movement.
The other elephant in the room is their Hardlex crystal. It’s a mineral material they treat for extra hardness. It’s stronger than regular mineral dial protectors but not nearly as premium as sapphire. Some say they overuse Hardlex and that any watch over $300 should have a sapphire. This is a matter of debate. However, many of their models equipped with Hardlex are often priced similarly to other brands’ watches with regular mineral. So, really, this grievance should be applied on a case-by-case basis.
FAQs
Here are some common questions regarding Seiko and the quality of their watches.
Are Seiko Watches Worth Buying?
Yes. In general, Seiko watches are solidly built and offer a wide range of pretty fair prices.
Is Seiko Watch a Luxury Brand?
No, many enthusiasts and experts don’t consider the core Seiko line luxury overall. You could consider models from certain sublines, like their Presage line, as affordable luxury models. For truly high-end pieces, check out Grand Seiko.
Is Seiko As Good as Rolex?
No, but comparing them is like comparing apples and oranges. Seiko does a good job in the affordable and mid-tier market, while Rolex does a good job in the high-end market. A more effective comparison would be between Rolex and Grand Seiko. Even then, both offer different styles based on different branding.
Conclusion: Is Seiko a Good Watch? Most Would Say Yes
So, are Seiko watches good? Again, I say yes. Many would. However, you can at least agree that they’re efficient and at least decently built. More importantly, you get what you pay for with Seiko. And you get what you pay for at every level of their wide range. A $200 Seiko 5 automatic often punches way above its price point. On top of that, they’re a pretty respected brand. Certainly, they’re the most important Japanese watch brand.
Okay, fine. Seiko became popular because they were cheap alternatives to far more expensive European automatics. But again, many substitutes earned their own spotlight because they were well-proliferated. If you look at the Seiko 5 catalog, you’ll see why I call them a cheat code for cheap mechanicals. Of course, this depends on your priorities as a watch buyer, but their prices are unbeatable in many ways.
Are you a Seiko fan? Why or why not? Let me know in the comments!
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