There are objective and subjective components to what makes a good watch. Let’s explore.
Trying to explain what makes a good watch is like trying to explain what makes a good song. Yes, there’s mostly a universal standard when it comes to how successful it is technically.
And to an extent, there’s even a standard to how it achieves artistically. The latter just takes some historical and cultural context.
But at the end of the day, you might not love a song that I do. Even if you agree it’s culturally important, you might not get the hype.
I’ve met people who acknowledge that the Rolex Submariner is an important watch (and therefore a “good” watch, in a sense) but don’t understand why it’s so expensive.
Today, I’m going to break down what makes a good watch from a few perspectives. I’ll ground it in the technical components because that’s at least the objective.
What To Look For in a Good Watch
Okay, so let’s talk about what makes a well-built watch. Here are the important things to consider when looking for a good watch.
The Materials Used
These days, most watches are made with stainless steel. However, just because it’s stainless doesn’t make it inherently better than a watch made out of titanium. Titanium is often just as strong but much lighter. Precious metal watches are perennial favorites, too.
No matter what a watch is made of, it matters whether or not it’s a high-grade material.
The most commonly used stainless steel is 316L, which is known for its corrosion resistance. Below 316L is 304L, which is less corrosion resistant, and above that, you have 904L, which is the grade Rolex uses.
There are also different grades of titanium, with grade 2 being the most common because of how ductile it is. However, grade 4 titanium is the strongest. It’s also the least moldable, which makes it difficult to work with, rarer, and more expensive.
Meanwhile, the gold standard for watch crystals is anti-reflective-treated sapphire. Sapphires are the most scratch-resistant dial protector but aren’t naturally clear. The best sapphires will have excellent AR-coating, ideally on both sides.
To learn more about watch crystals, check out this guide.
Relatedly, How Durable Is It?
Again, there are different grades of metal, some stronger than others. But even more than that, how durably built is your watch?
No precious metal watch will ever be as strong as titanium, but perhaps it’s built with excellent dust, shock and water resistance.
These are all features to consider when deliberating a watch’s quality — these traits are directly linked to how long that watch’s potential life is.
You may prefer using gold over stainless steel for a dress watch. Or maybe you think that titanium is a better choice over stainless steel. Still, it’s safe to say that a watch with a longer life is better than one with a shorter life.
The Quality of the Finish
The devil is in the details.
Even a creatively designed watch won’t have impeccable finishing if the budget isn’t there. You need the deft hand of good watchmakers or advanced manufacturing technology to ensure that every application is in place.
Also, are there more applications or more printing on the dial? Many argue that well-placed applications make for a good watch.
This is because a lot of detail, labor, and technology goes into assuring that the alignment is perfect on every single watch in the line.
And if there’s printing, how clean is it?
It’s all a testament to workmanship.
I love Seiko, and their core line is truly high value. That said, the finishing of their watches isn’t anywhere near what you’d see on Grand Seiko models.
Cheap core Seikos tend to have rattly bracelets (they’re often still worth the price, though) and imperfect finishing on the case.
If the finish is satin, does the brushing look clean, and does it go in one direction? If it’s polished, how high-shine is it? Grand Seiko watches often use Zaratsu polishing, a special technique that results in a mirror finish.
Let’s Talk Movements
A good watch movement is accurate, precise, and durable.
A watch’s accuracy is measured in how many seconds it gains or loses within a certain constraint. The less it gains or loses a day, the more accurate it is.
Swiss mechanical movements by Sellita and ETA often gain or lose 12 seconds a day.
So, at most, after a day of working, an ETA movement may read that it’s 12 seconds past 12:30 AM. However, it may actually be 12:30 AM on the dot. That’s not too shabby.
Precision is related to accuracy but measures how consistently the watch stays within its stated accuracy. So, for example, a Seiko 4R36 movement is said to have an accuracy of -35 to +45 seconds a day.
If, in a given week, it’s gaining 45 seconds every other day and then losing 35 on the off days that’s pretty consistent and precise.
Now let’s say it’s gaining 40 seconds one day, 55 seconds the next, losing 20 seconds the day after that, then losing another 40 seconds the following day.
Let’s say that by the end of the week (or even two weeks), it may still average out at somewhere in between -35 to +45 seconds a day. Well, its stated accuracy is correct, but its precision isn’t reliable.
As far as durability goes, a strong watch movement is robust and boasts qualities like shock resistance and magnetic resistance. This ensures that no outside force is affecting the accuracy or precision.
Quartz vs Mechanical
Here’s where it gets subjective.
Ultimately, quartz watches are far more accurate than even the best mechanical movements. Does that make them better? Well, it makes them better timekeepers, and if that’s all you care about, then yes.
However, many watch enthusiasts (dare I say most of them), appreciate the engineering that goes into a mechanical. That’s why accurate Swiss automatics are usually a gold standard for many collectors.
Do you consider a good watch one that is a feat of engineering? If so, you’re likely looking at complex, beautifully finished, accurate, and strong automatic movements over quartz movements.
Certifications
Two noteworthy watch movement certifications are COSC certification and METAS certification. With these certifications, a watch can be classified as a “Chronometer” or “Master Chronometer,” respectively.
To qualify as a Chronometer, the Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres, or COSC, subjects the uncased movement to several tests. For example, they’re placed in extreme temperatures and exposed to impact. They must maintain a certain level of accuracy in the face of this to earn certification.
All modern Rolex watches are Chronometers and even have their own in-house accuracy requirement of -2 to +2 seconds per day.
Meanwhile, to get Master Chronometer status, the Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology, or METAS, subjects already encased movements to similar stresses.
Most watchmakers will only seek these certifications for their mechanical watches since it’s a given that quartz timepieces are highly accurate.
Still, even within quartz movements, some are more accurate than others.
The Brand and Historical Importance
Yes, Rolex and Patek are important brands, and they make good watches. And truly, these big Swiss brands have contributed to a lot of horological innovation.
However, some might argue that these big-name heritage watchmakers use this to add more zeros to their price tags than necessary. That’s fair.
However, the historical importance of, say, the Speedmaster, which is known for being the first watch to go to the moon, also gives it objective value.
Often, but not always, this adds to the watch’s investment value. Not everyone buys watches to add to their investment portfolio, but knowing that yours tends to maintain its value is an undeniably good quality.
What Makes a Good Watch Expensive
So let’s say you’re looking at two watches, and they both check off all of the boxes above. Why, then, is one still so much more expensive than the other? In other words, what makes a good watch expensive?
Well, in addition to brand name and historical importance, there are a few things that might be at play here.
Lore and Pop Culture Association
The more long-standing the pop culture’s importance, the more expensive the model can be. The Submariner is no doubt a good timepiece, but would it be the most recognizable watch in the world if not for its James Bond association?
Rarity
Limited editions tend to go up in value, and it isn’t always some supply and demand game by the big brands, either.
The Rolex Milsub, for example, was only made available to Navy men and was never commercially released. Because of this, it’s a grail to many (and quite pricey).
Innovation
Even today, decades after conception, affordable chronographs are few and far between. It takes a deft hand to build one.
Similarly, Grand Seiko’s Spring Drive caliber combines elements of quartz and mechanical movements and is one of their most sought-after and expensive offerings.
Quirks
Interestingly, something like a dial with a misspelling on it can make it a collectible. Sun-damaged watches have been rebranded as having “tropical” dials, and this look is even simulated on newer watches.
Have you ever heard of the Rolex Domino’s watch? Once upon a time, Dominos gave franchise owners who met competitive sales goals Air-Kings with a Domino’s logo on it. Now, these off-beat variants can fetch more dollars on auction than the same model sans the pizza logo.
Conclusion: Know What You’re Getting and Buy What You Love
I never judge people for buying a pricey watch because of a small quirk or its brand name, even if they can find one that’s just as good for far less.
Heck, I won’t even judge you if you drop a few grand on a timepiece that’ll just lose value the minute you walk out with it.
At the end of the day, what makes a certain model a “good watch” is that it makes its owner happy.
However, it’s important that you know just what you’re paying for, even if you happen to be happily overpaying.
What are your favorite qualities in a watch? Do you prioritize pure function, or do you also consider other factors such as brand clout or history?
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