Omega Seamaster vs Rolex Submariner

The Omega Seamaster vs Rolex Submariner debate – which side of the fence do you sit on? This article will help break things down.

Many watch aficionados will agree that there are only two contenders when discussing the best dive watches in the world. Omega with its Seamaster watch and the Rolex Submariner. In fact, few other rivals come out so close at the end of the race than these do.

Let’s be honest. The Speedy beat the Daytona in the space race, and the Datejust and Day-Date are more recognizable than the Constellation. A majority might say that the Sub comes out on top, though just barely. Does it, though? Sure, the Submariner is the Bond watch, while the Seamaster is the other, but is it better simply because it was the first? We’re going to dive into this question and explore the Omega Seamaster vs Rolex Submariner debate in this article. 

Seamaster vs Submariner: A Quick Overview

The reason it’s so difficult to settle the Rolex Submariner vs. Omega Seamaster debate is because both are so popular. If ever there was a list of the top 10 grail watches to own, both deserve a place on it. Both became popular during the 1950s and have been battling for the top spot ever since. While the debate will always be a hot topic among enthusiasts, those seriously weighing up which one to use will find this article helpful. Both models share attributes like a fascinating history, and both manufacturers engineer their respective models using high-grade materials.

However, as an overview, the Submariner is a classic diver that is recognizable and an excellent investment. The Seamaster is more fashion-forward and has more variants and sizes than the Sub. And while it’s an important quality, it doesn’t just come down to personal style — not for everyone, at least. So, let’s compare the two in more detail, starting with the Submariner:

The Submariner Rolex

The Sub is the most famous watch in the world, so much so that there’s a great range of alternatives on the market. Here’s why it’s the dive that launched a thousand homages.

Aesthetics

The Submariner is the quintessential dive watch, with its iconic Mercedes-lollipop combo hands and triangular and circular indices. Thanks to its classic, simplified bezel, few dive watch manufacturers can deny taking inspiration from the Sub. One thing Rolex can claim over Omega is how little its design has changed since the original Rolex ref. 6204. This is especially true when we examine what happened during the quartz crisis. 

Mechanical watch sales plummeted in the ‘70s in favor of cheaper quartz pieces. Heritage brands retooled their models in a desperate attempt to survive. The Submariner, however, stayed true to itself and weathered the storm. In a way, the Rolex history of the Sub is a survival story, giving it a touch more street cred than the Seamaster. It comes in two forms: The Submariner Date and the regular Sub. 

Features

The Submariner is functionally very basic, but why change what works? Some of the most straightforward designs are grails, after all. That doesn’t mean to say that Rolex didn’t add sensible upgrades where necessary. Suffice it to say, the Submariner has always been the gold standard for form and function.

COSC-certified Chronometer movements arrived in the early 2000’s. For collectors, this meant the Submariner’s movements promised top-notch accuracy, even in extreme conditions, including temperature and pressure. Beyond that, Rolex has its own “Superlative Chronometer” standard. Modern Submariners are accurate within -2/+2 seconds per day, making them a tad more precise than modern Seamaster watches.

A lot of vintage Submariner watches aren’t chronometers. For example, reference 5513 with tropical hands is often perfectly reliable and accurate but a bit difficult to regulate. Additionally, Rolex began using sapphire crystals on the Sub in 1990, along with fade-proof ceramic bezels in 2008. 

The Submariner features Oystersteel, a 904L stainless steel that’s extra corrosion-resistant for wearing anywhere. Its bezel is Rolex’s Cerachrom, a tough, virtually scratch-proof ceramic that won’t fade. Additionally, Chromalight is the brand’s in-house lume with a signature blue tint lasting up to eight hours. 

History and Pop Culture

If it were up to history, the Seamaster vs Submariner debate would be easier to quash. Rolex is the dive watch brand. They released the Rolex Oyster in 1926, the world’s first waterproof watch. In fact, the brand ushered in several dive-focused innovations leading up to the Submariner. This heritage wins the Sub a bunch of extra points for historical importance. When the first Submariner debuted at Basel in 1954, it was the first watch to be waterproof up to 100 meters.

French scuba diver and friend of Jacques Cousteau, René-Paul Jeanneret, was a Rolex board member in the ‘50s. Subsequently, he convinced the other members to back the Submariner’s development. 

Regarding its relationship with actual diving, the Sub boasts an incomparable legitimacy factor. There’s also something clubby about Submariner wearers. “The great men who wore Submariners” is a storied topic in and of itself. Of course, the most famous man to wear one wasn’t even a real person. The Submariner is the original Bond watch. Ever since Sean Connery paired one with his dinner jacket in 1963’s Dr. No, the dive watch became a style essential.

In addition, Submarines are mainstays in the high-end auction world because of their performance as investment pieces. They hold their value at the very least and can increase in value many times over.

Now, how does the Seamaster stack up compared to all of this?

The Omega Seamaster Watch

The Seamaster is the largest collection of all the best Omega watches. We will stick to the main branch here, so most of the lines with a second appellate don’t count.

Some examples we aren’t considering include the Seamaster-De Ville and the Seamaster-Aqua Terra. The exception here is the Seamaster-Planet Ocean, which does count since it maintains its status as an advanced professional diver.

Aesthetics

One advantage the Seamaster has over the Submariner is that it has many more visual variations within its core line. This allows it to serve far more personal styles and wrist sizes. The two tent-pole designs are based on the Reference CK 9213, the first Seamaster 300 from 1957, and the wave dial design from the ‘90s. 

Many of the heritage Seamaster models follow the CK 9213’s triangle-forward design. The triangular indices sit flush against the dial edges, pairing with a broad arrow hour and tapering triangular lugs. Together, these culminate in a more aerodynamic aesthetic than the Submariner.

Even the Planet Ocean carries this look, though it’s a far more beefed-up version. The wave dial design came out in 1993 and featured skeletal hands, a scalloped bezel, and the face’s wave pattern. Its standard stainless steel bracelet, with five alternating links, is as iconic as the dial. Arguably, it’s somewhat more exciting than the Submariner Oystersteel bracelet. The blue and black versions are the most emblematic of the line, but if you want it in other colorways, they exist, too. 

Size-wise, you have to go vintage to find a Sub smaller than 40mm. Omega, on the other hand, offers smaller options. You can even get a contemporary reference of the 1957 trilogy version at 39mm.

Features

The Submariner vs Seamaster comparison gets complicated because it depends on which Seamaster you’re looking at.

In general, Rolex offers slightly more accurate automatic movements, but contemporary Seamaster watches still run on COSC-certified movements. Omega’s Co-Axial Master Chronometer provides extra stability and requires less lubrication. This means they’ll stay more accurate with less servicing.

So, is a Rolex functionally better? Technically, yes, since timekeeping is the point of a watch movement. But is timekeeping the point of a watch? I’d argue no. Moreover, even for the horologically inclined, you can get Seamasters with an exhibition caseback, something Rolex doesn’t offer. And if you prefer a quartz movement, Rolex is entirely out of the question.

Seamasters are also more resistant to magnetic fields than Submariners; some have helium escape valves. That element alone is a true-blue dive feature, allowing you to discharge helium build-up while resurfacing manually. Meanwhile, the Planet Ocean boasts 600 meters of water resistance.

History and Pop Culture

The first Seamaster was just a peacetime version of the watches soldiers wore during WWII. The CK 2913, the first true Seamaster with water resistance, came out in 1957 and later became the De Ville.

The CK 2913, or the Seamaster 300, misleadingly had 200 meters of water resistance; still, Omega one-upped Rolex since the first Sub was a 100M model. 

As of 1995, Pierce Brosnan wore the wave-dial Seamaster in GoldenEye. Bond would wear a Seamaster after that, including in Casino Royale. Here, Vesper Lynd mistakes 007’s watch for a Rolex before Craig’s Bond corrects her and namedrops Omega. This self-aware moment would fully cinch the Seamaster as the undisputed current Bond watch.

The story behind this transition is that the producers wanted James Bond to wear a watch affiliated with the British Navy. This gave the Seamaster a cache in pop culture and real-world service. Fittingly, Omega has always contributed to diving and tool watches in general, albeit more quietly than Rolex. It even embarked on an intense research project with Compagnie Maritime d’Expertises, COMEX, a French diving company. As a result, the Seamaster 600 spearheaded the use of 904L stainless steel.

Unlike Rolex, Omega fell prey to fashion watch trends during the quartz crisis. This opened the door to the vast range of Seamaster watches we know today, including the Omega No Time to Die watch.  

FAQs

Do you still have questions? Below are answers to some common ones.

Is the Seamaster Better Than the Submariner?

The Submariner is slightly more accurate and uses premium Rolex-specific materials. However, the Seamaster comes in more styles and variations, including different sizes and those with more water resistance.

Are Omega Movements Better Than Rolex?

Automatic Omega movements are slightly less accurate than automatic Rolex movements, though both are durable, reliable, and COSC-certified. Unlike Rolex, though, Omega offers quartz movements.

Is the Omega Seamaster Worth It?

Yes, if you love any of the Omega Seamaster variants and can afford one. The Seamaster is an objectively good watch from a prestigious brand that will last decades or more.

Is the Omega Seamaster Diver a Good Investment?

Yes, historically, the Seamaster and the Speedmaster are the two safest investments in Omega’s range. 

The Takeaway

At the end of the day, automatic Submariner watches have the edge over automatic Seamasters regarding accuracy. If that matters to you, you’ll no doubt steer towards Rolex. Bear in mind, however, that there are more affordable Omega watch options than Rolex. That’s not to say Rolex doesn’t have affordable options. In fact, you can learn more about how much a Rolex watch costs in another guide. But generally speaking, Rolex Subs are more expensive than Omega Seamasters. 

However, the Seamaster has quartz and mechanical options, which you can sometimes view.  That feature alone may better satisfy the horologically curious. But if it’s status you want, Rolex wins every time. 

Which is your favorite when it comes to the Omega Seamaster vs Rolex Submariner? Let us know in the comments below!