A lot of Swiss brands are as much talk as they are action. Focusing on good, honest craftsmanship, the Glycine watch company is all action.
Don’t let the Invicta association deter you. Glycine Watches are more than just some mid-market offerings. (Also, there’s nothing wrong with Invicta. They fill a need in the watch world quite well).
I believe there are three prerequisites for a brand to achieve hard-hitter status beyond making good products. These include history and lore, got-there-first innovations, and a military association. Glycine checks all of the boxes.
And in the age of Grand Seiko, it’s arguable whether or not being Swiss-made is a hard prerequisite. However, Glycine watches are, and there’s no denying that carries a lot of weight.
They’re what I call utilitarian plus. They’re perfect for guys who just want a high-quality watch and those who are discerning but don’t want to break the bank.
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Glycine Watches: A Brief History
The funny thing about Glycine is that, given their origins, they could’ve become a Cartier or Bulgari. However, the British commander pilot, Chat Brown, changed the direction of their journey.
Glycine was founded in 1914 in Bienne, Switzerland. Horologically, their initial focus was teeny tiny movements. This is because, aesthetically, they specialized in delicate ladies’ watches. Their first lines used a lot of gem settings, gold, and platinum.
Glycine actually has quite a pedigree. Horological wunderkind Eugène Meylan founded it. While Meylan was a watchmaking student, he built a timepiece that was certified by the Contrôle officiel suisse des Chronomètres.
As a reminder, COSC has strict requirements for accuracy and durability and is certified through 15 days of testing.
In 1930, Meylan developed the automatic EMSA model. Though automatic movements were already around, this was the first mass-produced self-winding timepiece.
I like mentioning this because it seems Glycine had been democratizing good watches since early on. EMSA stands for Eugène Meylan Société Anonyme, which was Meylan’s other company.
This allowed Meylan’s company to make it through the Great Depression while others shuttered.
Glycine and the Armed Forces: More History
Commander Chat Brown tapped Glycine to build a watch for the armed forces. This became the Airman, the brand’s tentpole model. It was initially just available in military base exchange stores.
The US Air Force consulted on the design, which featured a 24-hour dial and a rotating and locking 24-hour bezel. Some say Glycine developed the GMT before Rolex did. Competing lore is part of the fun, though.
The Airman went from Vietnam helicopters to intercontinental flights during the golden age of travel. Uniquely, it was (and is) a jet-setter watch with military origins. That’s a lot of feathers in one cap.
In 1953, Glycine developed the first vacuum-sealed watch case. Designer Hans Ulrich Klingenberg achieved this by attaching a flat crystal using a clamped bezel ring to the one-piece case.
This prevents condensation from entering and stops the lubricant from drying out.
In 1965 and 1966, the Airman made it to space, first with the Gemini 5 mission and then with the Gemini 11 flight.
Why I Love Glycine
So why am I a fan? Well, to begin with, all of that history makes Glycine a fascinating brand.
Any brand that has a line built for military needs is a big plus for me. This means that this watch passes muster for the most intense, stressful, and challenging requirements. As such, it’s also more than good enough for everyday folks like you and me.
It’s not just the esteem of working for defense ministries, though. Once Glycine has developed these spec-heavy, function-forward watchmaking skills, all of their lines benefit. It just levels up the brand.
And this has carried on into their watches today. Glycine watches are undeniably well-crafted. There’s good attention to detail, and a lot of the manufacturing is still done by hand. Considering they’re reasonable prices, this is incredibly impressive.
But that’s one of the things they do best. They’re all about good, honest function. Even their cheapest watches have respectable movements and excellent finishing. They’re never super fancy, but you can see the genuine skill involved.
You can stick the landing without doing several superfluous flips in the process. That’s what Glycine does.
I’m also a fan of their retro designs. By sticking to a lot of tried-and-trues and pulling from their archive, Glycine essentially allows you to buy vintage watches.
And you get to do so without the hassle of actually going vintage. Then there’s the bonus of modern creature comforts.
This is one of the reasons style-focused guys love Glycine. There’s a cool factor to these designs. They’re bold but not loud, professional yet fashionable and practical.
Speaking of designs, I also love the fact they have quite a range of sublines.
To show you what I mean, let’s look at a few, starting with the Airman Watch Glycine.
Airman Watch Glycine
As mentioned, the Glycine Airman flaunts an excellent history. It’s definitely the brand’s local legend. It was a go-to for helicopter pilots during the Vietnam War. It was also a favorite among the cosmopolitan set.
One thing both of these types of men have in common? The desire to know what time it is where you are, as well as where you’re going.
This dynamic distinguishes the Airman from other GMTs. It combines two classic men’s styles. It’s a watch for a man who loves jet-setting in a suit and tie, as well as a watch for a no-nonsense practicalist. You can wear it with a suit, and you can wear it with service boots.
Even more, the Airman comes as a 36-millimeter, making it a slender-wrist-friendly GMT. Plus, should we use design to give a watch a presence and visual size rather than just making it huge? I consider that a hallmark of sophisticated design.
No matter which modern variation you go for, they all have that sculptural bezel and those distinct syringe hands.
Well, there are a few exceptions. But for the most part, the models in the subline maintain their retro yet relevant aesthetic. It almost looks like a dive watch combined with a pilot watch. Consider it a sum of all tool watches, perhaps?
I love how covert and commanding the all-black variations look and how the white dials look almost dressy. Now that’s range.
On the function side, you can get models with quartz movements or automatic movements with exhibition casebacks.
Glycine Combat Sub
The Glycine Combat Sub is actually one of my favorite dive watches on the market. In fact, it might be one of my top five favorites of all time.
The rotating-bezel version is the definition of classic but distinct. It’s an on-template, tried-and-true diver. However, it has its own character without going off-script, which is a tough juggling act.
You can get the Combat Sub with an undeveloped Mercedes handset, which means the peace sign isn’t in the circle. It’s balanced out with Arab indices, so it doesn’t look full Submariner.
Meanwhile, the version with stout baton hands brandishes the Rolex-esque mixed indices, but they are smaller and closer to the center.
Heck, there are even Pepsi bezels and chronographs available.
When I refer to Glycine’s range, I’m referring not just to their sublines but also the variations within them. Like the Airman, you can choose from automatic and quartz watches, as well as different size options.
Glycine Airpilot Chronograph
If you love a vintage look, I highly recommend checking out the Glycine Airpilot Chronograph. It’s oozing with charm.
Everything from the sword hands to the quintessential DIN font is on this dial. However, the dial is silky and comes in several colors. You can even go for two subdials or one — or none if you want a more field-watch-like aesthetic.
I also love the pops of color, like the tonal red on the top pusher and the dial accents.
It has all the personality of a classic, vintage pilot watch. However, the modern touches ensure it’s aesthetically and functionally relevant — vintage with a bit of shine, I like to call it.
FAQ
Here are some common questions (and, of course, their answers) that people have about Glycine watches!
Are Glycine watches made in China?
No, Glycine watches are officially certified Swiss-made. It’s possible that they source some parts elsewhere.
However, legal conditions dictate that at least 60% of the components are Swiss (up from 50% in 2017). Also, certain key manufacturing processes must happen in Switzerland.
Is Glycine owned by Invicta?
Yes, in April 2016, the Invicta Group acquired Glycine. However, they’ve mostly respected the brand’s ways of doing things and their independence. Invicta basically just supports Glycine financially.
Is Glycine any good?
Yes, Glycine watches are well-crafted, offer a wide range, and even come with some cool stories and history.
Is Glycine a Swiss watch?
Yes, Glycine was founded in Bienne, Switzerland, making it a Swiss watch brand. Even more, its watches fulfill all of the legal requirements to bear the Swiss-made moniker.
Conclusion: Affordable Luxury or Utilitarian Plus?
Few would classify Glycine watches as luxury. Perhaps it falls into the enigmatic affordable luxury category, but that’s as far as it goes.
However, it’s arguable that owning a Glycine watch feels like a luxury. They’re Swiss-made, the brand has history, including history with the military, and they’re spec-forward.
Plus, they offer all of the luxurious features, including Swiss automatic movements and sapphire crystals.
This goes to show that what’s considered a luxury relates to function — at least, a lot of it is. As far as I’m concerned, durability and good timekeeping on a well-crafted Swiss watch are luxuries.
Or perhaps they’re what I coined earlier — utilitarian plus. But what’s really the difference between this and affordable luxury?
On top of getting a good timepiece, you’ll also have respectability. Yes, these watches are far cheaper than any from a Swiss hard-hitter.
But, no one would look at someone wearing a Glycine Airman or a Glycine Combat Sub and think, “he just couldn’t afford a Rolex Submariner.”
Again, it’s all about good, honest function. And what are the conversations that come with each model? That’s just a plus.
Are you a fan of Glycine watches? What are your favorite models? Let me know in the comments!
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