A side-by-side comparison of two iconic Cartier watches. Here’s the Slender Wrist’s Cartier Tank vs Santos overview.
At the beginning of the 20th century, soldiers started wearing wristwatches over pocket watches as a more practical on-the-field option. Leather bands gradually changed to practical NATO straps to form an easily identifiable watch with bucketfuls of functionality. While wristwatches were already gaining popularity among the ladies, they proved more practical for men in the trenches of WWI. During World War II, when the military started requiring watches to have round cases, square watches fell out of popularity.
Round watches are still far more common today than square types, bar a couple of exceptions to the rule. One brand specializing in square watches you may be familiar with is Nomos, my favorite brand. The other you’ll definitely be familiar with is Cartier. The two most notable examples from Cartier are the Santos and the Tank. We’re going to look at these two watches today. We’ll outline how they compare and how they differ. Here’s an overview of the Cartier Santos vs Tank debate.
Table of Contents
What Is the Difference Between the Cartier Tank and Santos?
Both the Santos and the Tank have tool watch heritages, but today, they’re unarguably dress watches. This is one of the reasons they’re so distinct. While they come in a few variations (that we’ll get into later), the Cartier Santos is generally more robust. There are more visual cues to its aviator origins. At the same time, the Tank is cleaner and simpler.
Want to invest in a classic square timekeeper? The research will likely lead you to these two rectangular icons or similar alternatives like the Seiko SUP880. They’re arguably the two most iconic square-shaped watches, but how do they compare?
The Cartier Tank vs Santos Overview
Some similarities between the Tank and the Santos make a lot of sense when you look at their origins. The Santos-Dumont launched in 1904, followed by the Tank in 1917. That original model is what we know as the Tank Normale. But the second Tank release, the Tank Louis, was the real smash hit. When you line them up, you can see it much clearer.
The first two releases relied heavily on inspiration taken from industrial developments. These include the Eiffel Tower and the Renault Tanks of WWI. These sharp industrial design cues amount to sharp right angles and beveled edges. Both of these are evident in the Santos-Dumont and Tank Normale. By the time the Tank Louis arrived, it was much sexier, elegant, and classic, bearing the distinctive Cartier stamp.
More elegant than industrial, the Tank Louis set the standard for all future versions of the Tank. This makes it easier to compare the Tank series with the Santos. By the 70s, many other brands began taking inspiration from this watch design. Sharp edges and screws were an experimental voyage for some brands before sporty porthole-inspired designs arrived. And lest we forget, JLC experienced great success with its own rectangular-shaped Reverso watch!
The Santos is generally bigger than the Tank, with medium-sized Santos models often comparable to XL Tanks. So, the quick-and-dirty is that the Santos is bigger, with a more complex case, while the Tank is classic, uncluttered, and generally “dressier.” This makes the Tank somewhat more traditional.
When we zoom into the details, the differences become more complex.
The Cartier Santos Watch
Though the Santos has several variants throughout time, it rarely strays from its blueprint. The design is famous for the extra layer of steel (or precious metal) on top of the bezel, accented with visible screws. This gives the design a more industrial touch than the minimal bezel of the Tank.
Aesthetics
Focusing on the modern iterations, we’ve got the Santos de Cartier and the Santos Dumont. Most have Art Deco-slanted Roman numerals and blue or white hands (blue is arguably more signature than white). Another notable Santos feature is the chemin de fer chapter ring (the railroad middle center track).
The Santos de Cartier is slightly more brawny-looking than the Dumont. In fact, it doesn’t come in small sizes; it is just medium, large, and XL. The latter measures a whopping 43.3mm, so it’s probably not the best watch option for small wrists. A 43mm width is enormous for a dress watch, especially a square-shaped one. Remember that a 43mm square watch must also measure 43mm long. Square watches also appear larger since their corners make up more space on the wrist.
The top metal piece of the bezel is a substantial design feature. It goes all the way to the vertical edges of the case. This visually integrates the bezel with the steel bracelet, featuring matching visible screws. Even the crown of the Santos echoes the shape of a screw fastener, further fortifying an industrial look. Some Santos de Cartiers have date windows at the six o’clock position, offering even more visual variation on the dial.
The Santos Dumont is dressier than the de Cartier line. The series includes leather straps, guard-less cases, and onion-shaped crowns with sapphire crystal tops. Most noticeable is its top metal piece on the bezel. Unintegrated from the bracelet, it perfectly frames the dial, giving it a cleaner look than the Santos de Cartier. The Dumont also comes in a small size, a traditional 38mm by 27.5mm.
When it comes to less classic variants, both have skeleton dial versions.
Functionality
In terms of looks, modern Santos watches come in various case materials. You can find them in white gold, rose gold, yellow gold, bi-color designs, steel, and diamond references. Wondering how that relates to functionality? Materials differ in weight, strength, and softness. Precious metals are, of course, softer than steel and more susceptible to scratches. For example, there are Santos watches in titanium, which are just as strong but much lighter than steel. Some versions have a black ADLC coating, providing an authoritative gunmetal aesthetic. They also make the case stronger, scratch-resistant, and even fingerprint-proof. Santos Dumont watches typically have 30 meters of water resistance, while de Cartier watches often have 100.
The Santos isn’t for the most adventurous horologists. But regardless of which movement you go for, you’ll get a pretty good Swiss caliber. Yes, you mostly pay for the iconic look and timeless style, but Cartier Santos timepieces aren’t fashion watches. The 1847 MC caliber, for example, is a reliable automatic movement that, in recent years, upgraded to top-notch magnetism resistance.
Dumont comes in quartz and manual wind, and the de Cartier comes in manual wind and automatic. I love the tactility of a manual wind, and I don’t find it inconvenient because I don’t use watches as my dominant timekeeper. I pick the watch up each time I want to remind myself why I love watches so much.
Finally, modern Santos watches feature Cartier’s QuickSwitch strap system. This allows you to quickly release a watch strap with the press of a button.
History and Pop Culture
The history of the Santos is evident throughout its design. The de Cartier, for example, was the first wristwatch widely available for men. Louis Cartier designed it for Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, who found pocket watches inconvenient in the cockpit. With its industrial-leaning qualities, the pilot watch’s heritage is evident. At the same time, it doesn’t compromise its dress watch status. Collectors find meaning in unique history, and this watch has deep roots in Cartier’s legacy. As I always say, we wear watches for style and story.
It’s in the same visual camp as the Patek Philippe Nautilus or the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. The Cartier has substance and status all rolled into one. And with the different variants offered, the Santos allows you to choose where on the tool-dress spectrum to fall.
Now, how does the Cartier Tank stack up compared to all of this?
The Cartier Tank Watch
As mentioned, the Tank is indeed a cleaner and more dressier-looking timepiece than the Santos. Its clean bezel and sweeping lugs offer a perfect accompaniment to evening attire. Though there are several variants within the Tank family, they generally stick to the same design elements. The classic blue hands, sapphire crown, and Roman numerals are just some examples. Some feature a beautiful guilloche-like center, adding extra visual intrigue. This design element matches the Art Deco vibe throughout the collection.
Aesthetics
The Tank comes in a wide range of sizes, though it’s generally smaller than the Santos. The smallest option (27mm by 15.20mm) is classified as a lady’s watch, though there’s nothing particularly feminine about it. The steel and gold colorways make for great unisex watches. The XL, meanwhile, is 41mm by 31mm.
Starting with the core model, the Tank Louis is the direct descendant of the first Tank. It’s the purest form of the design, with a beaded crown and blue steel hands. The Tank Must is similar, except it features steel instead of precious metals, though both come with diamonds. I’d recommend these if you want to experience the most classic, quintessential Tank.
The Tank Francaise does for the Tank line the same thing the Dumont does for the Santos. They’re both the middle ground between the Santos and the Tank when it comes to the sporty-dressy spectrum.
It still has the brancards that transition straight into the lugs, but they have much sharper turns. Meanwhile, the top and bottom of the bezel are much thinner. This allows the bracelet to dip deeper into the case’s silhouette while making it look more integrated. It even has a screw fastener-style crown.
The Tank Americaine is elongated, leaving more negative space around the Roman numerals. It has a vintage American dress watch aesthetic, like a Bulova Captain from the ‘40s. Two non-current versions that are still easy to come by are the Tank Solo and the Tank Anglaise. The Solo looks a lot like the Louis but with flatter brancards. You’re likely to find it as a quartz. It’s definitely the entry-level Tank subline. The Anglaise is incredibly curvy, with a recessed crown, making it wear almost like a cuff bracelet.
Features
You can get the Tank in white, yellow, rose gold, and steel. Unlike the Santos, modern versions don’t come in titanium or with ADLC coatings. However, they come in platinum, further leaning into its more formal, less sporty approach. Like the Santos, you can find the Tank as a quartz, manual, and automatic. All the extra small Tanks have quartz power.
The Santos and the Tank are equal when it comes to movement options, with many Tanks featuring the 1847 MC. These watches also have 30 meters of water resistance. So, for what it’s worth, the Tank slightly lags behind the Santos regarding functionality.
History and Pop Culture
Louis Cartier designed the Tank – the brand’s flagship timepiece. General of the American Expeditionary Force, John J. Pershing, received the prototype in 1918. It went into production the following year. The Tank takes inspiration from the Renault FT-17, an actual military tank. The brancard design is anatomically similar to the wheel tracks that stick out when looking at a bird’s eye view of the FT-17.
Even the more complex Tank variants are more understated than the Santos. It’s definitely the less flashy watch, making it popular with royalty and politicians. However, even Mick Jagger wears a Tank (though it is a Tank Francais, the visually louder subline). Clearly, this watch attracts a wide range of personal styles.
The Tank is a flex, for sure. However, which subline you go for will determine how hard of a flex it is. For example, the Francaise is more in-your-face than the Must, and any Tank with diamonds is striking, regardless of which variant it is.
FAQs
Have we answered all of your questions about the Tank versus Santos? If you still have lingering questions, here are the answers to the most common queries.
Does the Cartier Santos Hold Value?
Thanks to celebrity status and their popularity, some Cartier Santos watches can appreciate over time, particularly gold references.
Do Cartier Tanks Go Up in Value?
Some Cartier Tank watches are worth more now than they were when they were released. Vintage models from the 1970s that cost $1000 can easily sell today for $10k.
What Is the Hardest Cartier Watch To Get?
The Tank à Guichets is one of the rarest Cartier watches to collect. It features a digital layout, and only around 1000 models exist.
Is the Cartier Santos Worth Buying?
If you love the design, the Cartier Santos is worth buying. It’s a good investment and pretty reasonably priced on the secondary market, sometimes as low as $2,000.
Is the Cartier Tank Worth It?
Yes, the Tank to Cartier is like the Submariner to Rolex. It has a good build, is iconic, and offers excellent investment value. The Tank has many variations, making it an exciting collection to build up.
Which Cartier Is the Most Iconic?
The Tank is definitely the most iconic. Yet, with its rectangular case shape, the Santos embodies the quintessential look people associate with Cartier. Non-watch people, however, would likely think a Santos is simply another variation of the Tank.
Final Thoughts
There are a few key points to consider when examining the Cartier Tank vs. Santos debate as a whole.
The Santos is sportier and flashier, while the Tank is dressier. Furthermore, the Santos Dumont is dressier than the brawny-looking Cartier de Santos. Despite its simplicity, the Tank is Cartier’s most recognizable model.
The Santos Dumont and the Tank Francaise are good options if you want something in the middle of either. That said, they still balance tool and dress watch aesthetics very differently. It all depends on where your priorities lie. Do you want a more elongated vintage look? There’s always the Tank Americaine. Maybe you want the square-shaped aesthetic with a more authoritative edge? In that case, opt for the black ADLC Santos.
Both the Tank and the Santos achieve a dressy-come-sporty look. But the devil really is in the details, with each variant impacting the wrist differently.
Which is your favorite out of the two? Are you digging the classic elegance of the Tank or the pilot elements of the Santos? Leave your comments below and share your thoughts with fellow Cartier fans at The Slender Wrist.
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