What does Swiss-made mean when it comes to collecting watches? And why is there so much snobbery surrounding the origins of a watch? Let’s find out.
Open up any watch catalog from luxury watch auction houses like Sotheby’s or Christies. Most, if not all, of the timepieces there will be Swiss-made watches. Even in the mid-tier watch categories, a dial christened with the word “Swiss” goes a long way in the watch-collecting world. It lends a watch a sense of prestige and legitimacy. Why though?
Believe it or not, the Swiss government applies extensive legal protection to the term “Swiss-made.” The industry does not take this term lightly.
We’re going to explore what the deal is with watches from Switzerland. So, if you’re trying to figure out whether or not you want to spend extra on one, you’re in the right place.
Table of Contents
What Are Swiss Made Watches?
I’m going to make a seriously confusing statement now. Not all Swiss brands make their watches in Switzerland, or at least not entirely. It’s true!
The term “Swiss-made” is a government-regulated label that protects the country’s many prestigious crafts. Think Swiss army knives or Swiss chocolate. When it came to Swiss watches, the industry had to find a way to regulate timepieces bearing this special moniker. It wouldn’t be easy since automatic watches are comprised of several parts. For example, the Speedmaster’s 1861 caliber movement features 234 components alone!
Not every single component needs to be Swiss, however. The “Swiss-made” title promises high quality and guarantees that a proportion of those parts are of Swiss origins. According to trademark law in Switzerland since 2017, a Swiss-made watch must follow these requirements:
- 60% of manufacturing costs must be Swiss.
- The encasing of the movement must happen in Switzerland.
- The final quality control inspection must happen in Switzerland.
- The movement itself must be a Swiss movement.
Not to get too meta, but that last point has its own set of requirements. For a movement to be Swiss, it must have these attributes:
- For a mechanical, 80% of the movement’s production cost is Swiss.
- For a quartz, 60% of the movement’s production cost should be Swiss.
For any movement, technical construction, prototype development, and final inspection must happen in Switzerland. So, if a brand checks all those boxes, it’s officially a Swiss-made timepiece and can legally stamp that watch. Of course, pre-2017 watches are different. They may only attribute 50% of their manufacturing costs to Switzerland.
Swiss-Made vs Swiss-Sourced: The Difference
If a watch features a simple “Swiss” appellate, that’s the equivalent of “Swiss-made.” Of course, labels in other languages are subject to the same legal regulations. So “produit suisse” and “fabriqué en Suisse” follow the same requirements.
What about a watch with a “Swiss movement” or “Swiss Movt” title? This means the watch runs on an official Swiss movement, AKA the last three bullet points above. The components of the movement must also account for at least 50% of the entire value. However, these “Swiss movement” watches don’t need to meet any of the other “Swiss-made” conditions.
For example, the Invicta Subaqua 16297 runs on a Swiss automatic movement, as does the Invicta Pro Diver 26689. However, the Subaqua 16297 features the “Swiss movement” label, while the Pro Diver 26689 features the “Swiss made” label. While both satisfy the movement requirements, only the Pro Diver goes beyond that to be a legally Swiss-made timepiece.
Of course, on a more general level, many brands associate their designs with Switzerland without breaking any rules. Smartwatches, for example, are often products of Asia. However, specific models incorporate Swiss parts to make their product descriptions more attractive to traditionalist watch collectors.
Five of the Best Swiss-Made Watch Brands
Of course, a list outlining the best Swiss-made watch brands could go on and on. But to keep things simple, this introductory guide lists five luxury swiss brands.
1. Patek Philippe
No brand qualifies as a Swiss watchmaking master more than Patek Philippe. Its legacy, which dates back to the 19th century, covers some pretty important watchmaking feats. These include a five-minute repeater in 1916, the first spilt-seconds chronograph in 1923, and the first perpetual calendar in 1925.
Even throughout the 21st century, Patek Philippe continues revolutionizing timekeeping, launching models like the 10-Day Tourbillon and the Annual Calendar ref. 5250. The latter features a silicone escape wheel. Amongst some of the brand’s most recent designs are the Twenty-4 line, which comes in quartz or automatic, and the Travel Time. The Travel Time belongs to the Calatrava line but brings newness to the forefront with local and home time displays.
2. Vacheron Constantin
Vacheron Constantin is one of the oldest watch manufacturers in the industry, owing to its loyal fan base. It’s a survivor of both World Wars, the Quartz Crisis, several revolutions, recessions, and a global pandemic. The company began making high-grade pocket watches before adopting the Maltese Cross in 1880. The logo takes inspiration from a barrel component within its movements.
The company began fortifying its watches with the Geneva Seal – a mark of quality and Swiss authenticity. When wristwatches became the order of the day, the brand started honing into thin calibers and, much later, the iconic sports watch. Even if you know little about Patek Philippe as a watch brand, you’ll recognize the Nautilus – a design concept that Gerald Genta conceptualized.
The 222 celebrated the brand’s 122nd anniversary, paving the way for some true collectibles. Its replacement became the Overseas watch, and the brand is still innovating to this day. Just weeks ago, PP revealed the Cubitus – the brand’s first collection in over 25 years. Bearing a strong resemblance to the Nautilus, time will tell whether it will evoke the same emotive impact.
3. Audemars Piguet
What do watch connoisseurs love most about Audemars Piguet watches? What’s not to love? The manufacturer carries an iconic presence in the watch world, particularly for its collectible Royal Oak watch – another Genta design.
The brand originated in La Brassus, Geneva, in 1875 and soon became a distinguishable manufacturer of complication watches. The Royal Oak arrived in 1971 and is what many collectors consider the first real chapter of Audemars Piguet’s history.
The integrated bracelet watch is a true collectible with a porthole-inspired design courtesy of an octagonal bezel. One of the most noticeable characteristics of the Royal Oak is the famous hobnail or Tappisserie-patterned dial and eight screws bolting the bezel to the case.
4. Rolex
Rolex is the crown jewel of the horological world and the most instantly recognizable name in watchmaking. Every design is a statement piece and a symbol of wealth and success. Anyone unfamiliar with the Rolex name has to have been hiding underneath a rock. Whether you’re a watch connoisseur or not, the brand has an incredible presence in the fashion world and a rich history.
Rolex has been on the scene since 1905. Founder Hans Wilsdorf also introduced the sibling brand TUDOR—a more accessible range—in 1926. Despite the cost of Rolex watches, many deem these covetable watches to be holy grails. Famous models like the Daytona Cosmograph, the Submariner, the Datejust, and the Explorer will always be desirable collectibles, not forgetting the GMT-Master II.
Above all, Rolex is a Swiss watch brand whose name echoes far beyond the boundaries of watchmaking. In fact, no amount of PR stunts, brand ambassadors, or campaigns could affect Rolex’s status today. The brand cements itself right at the industry’s core, standing as a pillar of excellence to those who can only aspire to be as recognizable.
5. Jaeger-LeCoultre
The story of Jaeger-LeCoultre began in 1833 when it designed a pinion-making machine. The brand could produce its own movements, enabling it to stand out against its competition. It started supplying movements to various manufacturers and has over 300 patents to its name today.
Amongst some of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s most famous designs is the Memovox Deep Sea watch, which became the first diver with an alarm. Others include the Reverso – an invention that remedied the risk of impact for polo players with a dial that could turn in on itself. And, of course, a range of high-complication watches, demonstrating the scope of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s watchmaking capabilities.
FAQs
Here are a few more facts and commonly asked questions about Swiss watch brands.
What Does It Mean When a Watch Is Swiss-made?
For a watch to classify as Swiss-made, it must comprise of at least 60% Swiss parts. A Swiss manufacturer must also assemble its parts in Switzerland. On top of that, a brand must assemble and test the movement in Switzerland.
Is a Swiss-made Watch Better?
Watches made in Switzerland are not necessarily better than those made elsewhere. However, connoisseurs opt for Swiss watches because of their reliability, tradition, and innovation.
What Are the Top Three Swiss Watchmakers?
The top three most prestigious Swiss watchmakers, AKA the Holy Trinity, are Vacheron Constantin, Audemars Piguet, and Patek Philippe. Rolex, however, is the most recognizable watch brand in the world.
Closing Thoughts
For a quick breakdown, think of Swiss-made watches in one way. The movement is Swiss, 60% of the manufacturing is Swiss, and the final inspection happens in Switzerland. If the movement is Swiss and nothing more beyond that, then it’s a Swiss movement watch.
Make sure to do your homework, though. Some shadier watchmakers may use manufacturing loopholes. One popular technique is building the entire movement somewhere cheap and shipping it to Switzerland. Here, the brand dismantles, reviews, and then rebuilds it. Therefore, the movement powering a watch could have a “Swiss movement” label. It goes to show how coveted the Swiss appellate is, though.
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