Watches That Hold Value: Old Faithfuls Amid Uncertainty

What are some watch brands that hold their value? There aren’t many reliable answers to that question, but here are some historically good bets.

At the time of this writing, the Rolex market has infamously softened. This is exciting to some. Two examples include those who’ve been on years-long waitlists and those who frequently dig for deals on eBay and Chrono24.

To others, it’s a bit spooky. How is this happening to Rolex? To this auction house, darling? 

If Rolex isn’t one of the watch brands that hold value, what is?

The truth is, no watch brand is impervious to ups and downs. I don’t have a crystal ball, but Rolex will be fine. Hold me to that. When it comes to holding value, it’s sometimes just a matter of waiting for a bull market to come charging in.

I’m going to round up some brands that tend to perform well from an investment perspective.

Key Factors Affecting Watch Value

Here are three factors that determine whether a brand or even an individual model holds value.

First and foremost, what is happening in the auction world? What prices are brands and models fetching at Sotheby’s and Christie’s, followed by Bonham’s and Phillip’s, and perhaps even Heritage? This is the stock market of watches.

Second is the why of it all. Like the stock market, prices can go down once everyone sees they’ve gone up. Let’s say that a specific Omega breaks major records at an auction at Christie’s. If you have that model and want to sell it, you better get it on the market before everyone else does. Remember that bubbles burst. 

Once prices have been at consistent highs, they will likely not keep rising. Instead, you might try to be ahead of the curve. You might think well-shaped watches like Cartier Cheiches are experiencing a strong market. 

Based on your research, you might have decided that the natural next step is for a pendulum swing. So perhaps you get in on the ground floor of more conventionally-shaped watches. This is a high-contrast (and frankly unlikely) hypothetical to illustrate a point. Speculation requires sophistication and is never guaranteed. Perhaps a watch broke records due to its provenance. Don’t expect your Omega to sell as much as Tom Brady’s. Or maybe the latest James Bond movie just came out. And maybe this new film is being hailed as the best Bond film ever. And perhaps Omega played a prominent role in the narrative.

This leads me to the third consideration. Is the watch or brand in the zeitgeist? It could be a chicken or egg situation. However, if a brand does well in auctions and dominates the collective consciousness, this can lead to a strong market.

Does It Matter if Your Watch Holds Its Value?

Only if you plan on selling it one day. I worked in the art industry for over a decade (and a better part of that decade had been spent in auctions). There’s absolutely nothing wrong with investing in luxury. However, I believe it should be one section of an investment portfolio. Think of it as a bonus investment.

You can enjoy your watch when you have it. But since you did your research and invested wisely, you’ll likely turn a profit if and when you sell it.

And if you don’t, you’ll at least have had the value of enjoying it with a prorated refund of sorts.

I don’t recommend buying luxury watches to store, to not enjoy, for the purpose of just selling off eventually. That is unless losing thousands upon thousands is no sweat off your back.

Watch Brands That Hold Value

We have some bad news if you’re wondering what watch brands hold value. No brand is immune to ups and downs. I can’t say that enough. Moreover, as you now know, many factors are at play. However, here are a few of the best watch brands that hold value that has weathered those ups and downs quite well.

Jaeger-LeCoultre

One thing all of the brands on this list have in common is that they have at least one icon. Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Reverso is one of their tentpole designs.

Like the Reverso, JLC’s range features creative, function-focused pieces infused with a high level of elegance. Jaeger-LeCoultre watches that boast exceptional quality are also watches that retain value.

Patek Philippe

Certain Patek Philippe watches are not only some of the top watches that hold value but can even appreciate. The primary examples are models in the Nautilus, Aquanaut, and Calatrava lines.

Patek, along with Rolex, is one of the most auctioned-off watch brands in the industry. Of course, they’re known for innovative designs and high-quality materials. The more unique the Patek, the better.

Rolex

I mentioned that Rolex’s secondary market isn’t the best right now. But as prices drop, buyers grow. And here’s a quick lesson in economics. With that increase in demand comes an increase in prices.

For Rolex, stick to classics like the Submariner or limited editions. Stainless steel pieces maintain their quality better than precious metals, so they often hold their value better.

Other Top Watch Brands That Hold Value

I also want to spotlight some brands that tend to do well with value. They aren’t as reliable as the above three, but are still good choices.

Vacheron Constantin watches hold their value if you keep them in good condition. They’re known for their highly complex watches. That being the case, the more complex the watch, the better. Consider the Overseas Chronograph, the Historiques, or the Patrimony Perpetual Calendar.

Not all of Audemars Piguet’s watches are as steadfast as the Pateks and JLCs of the world. However, the Royal Oak tends to have a strong market and is one of the best watches for resale value.

Of course, certain Omegas do well on auction, too. The James Bond association doesn’t hurt. The Speedmaster, being the most famous chronograph in the world, is pretty reliable.

We can’t count out jewelry brands that make good watches, like Cartier and Bulgari, often see strong markets. The Cartier Tank is obviously the most iconic square watch of all time.

And last, a few affordable watches hold their value the best. These include a few Seiko and Hamilton models.

FAQs

Which Watches Hold Their Value the Best?

Though no watch brand is impervious to unpredictable markets, certain luxury watch brands have performed (mostly) consistently. Some big names include Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Jaeger-LeCoultre.

Which Watches Are a Good Investment?

Classic iconic designs like the Rolex Submariner or rare limited editions tend to be good investments.

What Watch Brands Don’t Lose Value?

While all watch brands experience ups and downs, Rolex and Patek Philippe tend to do well on auction.

Conclusion: An Important Note About Investing

When it comes to the best watches that hold value, it’s actually more about specific models. As mentioned, all of the brands mentioned above have at least one icon. 

The safest bet for investing in watches is sticking to classics. Timeless and iconic designs are more likely to emerge from a bad market unscathed. So, focus more on specific models rather than brands.

Of course, when a brand has a strong-market watch, like the Rolex with the Sub, this reverberates to the brand’s entire range. Or, do the complete opposite. Find highly unconventional limited editions from watch brands that hold value. This is because scarcity creates demand. 

Also, look for windows of opportunity when selling. Again, the factors to consider include auction performance, market trends, and the brand or model’s role in current culture.

Questions? Comments? Let me know below!