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Perpetual Calendar Watches: What They Are and What They Do

By Karlton Miko Tyack Updated June 26, 2024

If you’re curious about what perpetual calendar watches do, read on!

Perpetual Calendar Watches: What They Are and What They Do-1
Source: Frederique Constant

Out of all of the complications a watch can have, perpetual calendars are one of the most useful. 

Basically, they feature several time measurements in one place that perpetually updates itself, so you don’t have to. Well, they’ll at least continue to do so over the course of your lifetime — more on that later.

Even more, a perpetual calendar watch, like a chronograph or a tourbillon movement, is an impressive feat of engineering. Mechanicals are complex, and the modern quartz versions are extraordinary in that they democratize the experience of a perpetual calendar wristwatch.

Let’s dive into what exactly it is before we look into some cool options. Of course, all budgets are represented.

Table of Contents

  • What Is a Perpetual Calendar Watch
  • Best Perpetual Calendar Watch
  • Affordable Perpetual Calendar Watch
  • Conclusion: Where Art Meets Science

What Is a Perpetual Calendar Watch

A perpetual calendar watch exhibits several measurements of time, often including the day, date, month, and even the phases of the moon. If it features the latter, it’s a moon phase watch, as well as a perpetual calendar. 

It even takes leap years into account. You don’t have to worry about how many days each month has as it’s programmed to understand these nuances. This is part of the reason they’re called perpetual calendars. Not only that, most of them are set to self-regulate until the year 2100!

A perpetual calendar wristwatch is often quite pricey. But, as you’ll learn from the choice of timepieces below, that doesn’t always have to be the case!

Best Perpetual Calendar Watch

Here are a few notable models, followed by some budget-friendly ones!

Patek Philippe 3940J

I’ve been in the auction industry for the better part of a decade. From what I’ve seen, I believe that Patek is such an auction house darling because of their perpetual calendars. 

Perpetual Calendar Watches: What They Are and What They Do-2
Patek Philippe 3940J

Patek Philippe is quintessential to the perpetual calendar world, and the famously thin 3940J is a quintessential Patek. Beyond being an undeniable collector’s item, it’s truly slender wrist-friendly.

I also love how the dial is both dreamy and mathematical. And this balance carries on to the back.

  • Dimensions: 36mm diameter, 8mm thickness
  • Case Material: Gold
  • Water resistance: 30m

Through the exhibition caseback, you can see the beautiful micro-rotor that helps make the super skinny construction possible. 

Hermes Slim D’hermes Quantieme Perpetuel

Hermes, along with Bulgari, is one of the few luxury brands that don’t predominantly make watches but serve up some pretty good ones.

Like the Patek 3940J, the Slim D’hermes Quantieme Perpetuel has a fanciful quality to it.

Perpetual Calendar Watches: What They Are and What They Do-3
Hermes Slim D’hermes Quantieme Perpetuel

Just look at that mother-of-pearl moon. The glass sky is made of aventurine, which has specks of gold in it.

However, the Slim D’hermes is more modern looking with its cut-out indices, simple silhouette, and hard-edged lugs.

  • Dimensions: 39.5mm diameter, 10mm thickness
  • Case Material: Titanium and precious metal
  • Water resistance: 30m

And with its GMT feature, this investment piece is filled to the brim with function.

IWC Da Vinci 3750-01

What I love most about the IWC Da Vinci 3750-01 is its silhouette. It’s truly unique.

Perpetual Calendar Watches: What They Are and What They Do-4
IWC Da Vinci 3750-01

The dial itself is a classic perpetual calendar face. Meanwhile, the case, pushers, and lugs perfectly match that balance of whimsy and practical design.

The bezel is dimensional and offers exquisite lightplay from every angle. The pushers have an almost steampunk characteristic, which contrasts with modern and clean lugs.

  • Dimensions: 39mm diameter, 14mm thickness
  • Case Material: Gold
  • Water resistance: 30m

Since classic perpetual calendars combine unlike design sentiments, this case sits naturally with the dial.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak

You can’t have a perpetual calendar round-up without the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. With this perpetual calendar variation, the fancy-meets-industrial sensibilities are all still there.

Perpetual Calendar Watches: What They Are and What They Do-5
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak

From the eight-sided bezel with exposed screws and that hobnail dial, it’s a recognizable icon.

The perpetual calendar looks essential on this template. The day, month, and dates are function-forward looking, while the cut-out moon phase is downright otherworldly.

  • Dimensions: 41mm diameter, 9.5mm thickness
  • Case Material: Stainless steel
  • Water resistance: 20m

If the AP Royal Oak is just a bit out of budget, or if you want something similar but different, check out our round-up of alternatives.

Frederique Constant Highlife Perpetual Calendar

Frederique Constant does something remarkable with the Highlife that’s tough to do.

Perpetual Calendar Watches: What They Are and What They Do-6
Frederique Constant Highlife Perpetual Calendar

It infuses a classic perpetual calendar with modern-looking sports watch qualities.

All of the subdials are embossed, giving it a clean, contemporary vibe — it screams “international man of mystery.” That etched globe really cinches the deal.

  • Dimensions: 41mm diameter, 12.65mm thickness
  • Case Material: Stainless steel
  • Water resistance: 50m

The incorporated lugs and sleek H-link bracelets are impeccably brushed and polished throughout. If traditional perpetual calendars are too illusory for you, this well-built, sporty take on it is for you.

Patek Philippe 5040J

It always goes back to Patek Philippe, doesn’t it? Not only is it a Patek, a perpetual calendar, but it’s hard to find. The 5040J was produced for a short time.

Perpetual Calendar Watches: What They Are and What They Do-7
Patek Philippe 5040J

It was only manufactured between 1992 and 95-ish. Basically, it checks all of the boxes for a true collector’s item.

It boasts a unique tonneau case and close-to-body crown, giving it a clean look. The white opaline dial is accented with beautiful gold applications.

  • Dimensions: 35mm diameter, 8.6mm thickness
  • Case Material: Gold
  • Water resistance: 30m

And since the dial protector quality is a toss-up with ‘90s watches, I’ll also mention that these watches are outfitted with sapphire crystals.

Affordable Perpetual Calendar Watch

Here are a few top-notch options, all well under a grand, many far under:

Citizen Weekender Eco-Drive BL5550-50X

Count on the ultimate workhorse brand to the workhorse of a perpetual calendar.

Perpetual Calendar Watches: What They Are and What They Do-8
Citizen BL5550-50X

Not only is the Citizen BL5550-50X super athletic looking, but it’s incredibly sculptural. It’s the perfect watch for someone who likes a little brawn on their wrist.

  • Dimensions: 43mm diameter, 11mm thickness
  • Case Material: Titanium
  • Water resistance: 100m

And since this is Citizen, it’s a practical timepiece, too. It flaunts a titanium construction, making it light and comfortable but still super strong. And the Eco-Drive movement, which is powered by any kind of light, eliminates the need for battery replacement.

Tissot Tradition Perpetual Calendar

Uniquely, none of the subdials on Tissot’s Tradition Perpetual Calendar are enclosed.

This open-concept dial gives it a speckled aesthetic that’s both busy and clean. This uncommon design is probably why this watch is so versatile. 

Perpetual Calendar Watches: What They Are and What They Do-9
Tissot Tradition Perpetual Calendar

It looks neither sporty nor dressy, yet it can be worn in basically any dress code.

  • Dimensions: 42mm diameter, 12mm thickness
  • Case Material: Stainless steel
  • Water resistance: 30m

You also get that coveted Swiss-made status here at a pretty reasonable price.

Seiko Coutura Perpetual Solar

The combination of technological design cues with organic ones makes the Seiko Coutura Perpetual futuristic looking. Some might say it’s alienesque. 

Perpetual Calendar Watches: What They Are and What They Do-10
Seiko Coutura Perpetual Solar

Still, you can’t deny how streamlined the entire design is despite how busy it is. It’s as if a spacecraft reconstructed itself into a watch.

All of the colorways have a different vibe, too. The two-tone versions are pretty swanky. 

  • Dimensions: 44mm diameter, 11.7mm thickness
  • Case Material: Stainless steel
  • Water resistance: 30m

At 44 millimeters, though, these watches are pretty huge. At least they aren’t particularly thick and wear pretty comfortably.

Citizen Eco-Drive Chronograph BL5568-54L

The Citizen BL5568-54L is a veritable feast of textures. I love that because it takes the multi-surfaced whimsy of a traditional perpetual calendar and expresses it in a contemporary way. It’s industrial but still so beautiful.

Perpetual Calendar Watches: What They Are and What They Do-11
Citizen Eco-Drive Chronograph BL5568-54L

The dial is silky yet textured, almost glittering at certain angles. This makes the polished indices and stark subdials really stand out — no problems with legibility on this dial! 

  • Dimensions: 44mm diameter, 11mm thickness
  • Case Material: Stainless steel
  • Water resistance: 100m

Meanwhile, the dimensional bezel adds more depth and visual intrigue.

Casio G-Shock GA-2100-1AER

This all-black variation of G-Shock’s “Casioak” line (named so for its similar silhouette to the AP Royal Oak) is authoritative and commanding.

Perpetual Calendar Watches: What They Are and What They Do-12
Casio G-Shock GA-2100-1AER

It’s all but bulletproof, with G-Shock’s famous impact-resistant construction. Naturally, this watch is practically designed.

It boasts an accuracy of plus or minus 15 seconds a month and features timers, stopwatches, and alarms, among several other functions.

  • Dimensions: 45mm diameter, 11mm thickness
  • Case Material: Carbon, resin
  • Water resistance: 200m

Its diameter is huge, but the resin construction and slim height make up for it.

Conclusion: Where Art Meets Science

Perpetual calendars have been around for centuries. Clocks with this complication are descendants of 15th-century astronomical bell tower clocks.

Today, they’re a popular complication due to their impressive engineering and their scientific yet romantic aesthetic. And, as you now know, they don’t have to cost an arm and a leg.

Are you a fan of perpetual calendar watches? Let us know in the comments!

Categories: Best Men's Watches Tags: Buying Guides

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Karlton Miko Tyack

About Karlton Miko Tyack

A lifelong watch enthusiast, Karlton has worked with quality timepieces of all price points and calibers, vintage and contemporary. He was born in LA, studied art history in Boston, and is a lover of rugby, football, and optimism.

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