In the complex and fascinating world of haute horlogerie, a sacred triumvirate known as the “Holy Trinity” of watchmaking exists. Read about it here.
Back sometime in the 1970s, in some dimly lit, smoke-filled room in Geneva, some obscure horological council was holding an important meeting. At least that’s what we can only presume, since it was during this time that the term “Holy Trinity” began to circulate amongst those “in the know”. Maybe you know it as the “Big Three”? Either way, three formidable brands were discussing a way to distinguish themselves as masters of an age-old art form.
But just what did these brands have to do to prove how deserving they were of acquiring such exclusivity within an elite club? I imagine it went a little like this…
Vacheron Constantin, the oldest of the three parties likely opened the meeting. “It has come to my attention that some brands are equipping their watches with…well…batteries. This uncivilised approach to watchmaking is against our beliefs. We’ve been making watches of an exquisite nature long before Japanese watchmakers were even a twinkle in their founding Father’s eye. We must do something to separate ourselves from this modern technology.”
Rebellion of the traditional round case, Audemars Piguet then steps in. “Listen, we just made the coolest steel sports watch. Let’s name ourselves “The Big Three”. Patek Philippe, proud developers of the minute repeater, agreed. And so it was decided. These three horological masters would stand together as a symbol of heritage, autonomy, and quality craftsmanship. They would call themselves “The Holy Trinity”.
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What Defines the Holy Trinity?
Still to this day, the Holy Trinity remains at the very top of the horological ladder. These three luxury watch brands epitomize the pinnacle of high-end horology. Two-thirds of the trio remain family-owned. The other has been around since the 19th century.
The steps these brands are taking to compete with the likes of Rolex and Richard Mille are beyond impressive. They provide the industry with some of the most complex watchmaking that exists. They innovate their own materials and collaborate with some of the world’s greatest pioneers and sports professionals.
Indeed, these brands didn’t get to where they are today by simply making “good watches.” They owe their popularity and reputation to consistently meeting a set of criteria, which sets them apart from their competition.
What makes their success even more remarkable is that they rely very little on marketing strategies and campaigns to establish their presence in the horological world. In fact, they barely need marketing at all. Here’s why…
They Maintain an Uninterrupted History of Excellence
The rise to modern-day watchmaking as we know it has not been an easy one. Brands that can lay claim to an uninterrupted history of quintessential watchmakingv, spanning over a century, have made some huge sacrifices. They have stared challenge after challenge in the face, most notably the Quartz Crisis.
It’s easy to underestimate the value of an unbroken lineage when it comes to watchmaking. An intact and uninterrupted brand history signifies resilience and dedication, and a profound sense of commitment. Other brands just as long in the tooth carry the same prestige, but having closed or relaunched for one reason or another, don’t fall under the “Holy Trinity” category.
Of all three brands, Vacheron is the oldest, with a history spanning some 265 years. Patek Philippe comes second, with a history dating back to 1839, followed by Audemars Piguet, which began in 1875. Funnily enough, the timescale goes in reverse for the release of their respective sports watches.
They Create Icons
It pays to know that all three of these brands played an integral role in the success of the iconic steel sports watch. It is a part of their shared legacy as “The Big Three”. The surge in the popularity of the sports watch forever changed how the population perceived luxury watches. Many brands jumping on the trend rescued the industry from the existing impact of the quartz crisis.
The steel sports watch was the catalyst for a special category of watch. One that wasn’t too complicated and high-end, and one that wasn’t too tool-like. Shattering the paradigms that had once confined watch innovation, the steel sports watch aesthetic was angular and robust with an integrated bracelet. It was a new genre of watch that looked just at home in the boardroom as it did on a yacht.
Audemars Piguet was the first to set the standard with the release of its Royal Oak watch. Four years later, Patek Philippe launched the Nautilus. Vacheron Constantin, however, was late to the party, releasing the Overseas watch in the mid-90s, which arguably became its most popular design.
They Master the Art of “Haute Horlogerie”
All three brands belonging to the “Big Three” are masters of high watchmaking. Their timepieces go far beyond merely telling the time, with complications to boot, and a strong focus on artful finishing. Each of these three brands creates its own in-house movements. This is much different from a watch brand that relies on third-party movements from other Swiss brands.
The engine of a Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, or Vacheron Constantin watch is a pure pedigree. And it’s not just about guaranteeing high-quality components and a more intricate decorative finish, either (though that’s understandably a bonus). When a brand has vertical integration, it gains complete control over its design and production. Free from any constraints, it suddenly gains more flexibility in terms of creative freedom.
These brands also produce some of the most complex and challenging-to-produce complications. Vacheron Constantin and Patek Philippe have held records for their complications, while AP also offers a range of minutes repeaters, tourbillons, and perpetual calendars.
They Influence the Industry
To make it to the top of the horological ladder, you must be able to influence the industry profoundly. These three brands have been setting benchmarks in craftsmanship from the get-go by perfecting the art of movement decoration. Techniques like Anglage, perlage, and Geneva stripes demonstrate top-tier watchmaking and are visually stunning.
In addition to this level of detail in a movement’s execution, these brands produce three of the world’s most popular sports watches and continue to push the boundaries of technical innovation. These manufacturers practically define the meaning of the word “heirloom”, cultivating a culture of exclusivity with their groundbreaking designs.
They Maintain Exclusivity
Nurturing a culture of scarcity is probably one of the most important skills in becoming a “Holy Trinity” member. If you’ve been collecting watches for some time, you’ll no doubt be aware of the power of low production numbers.
These famous brands intentionally produce watches in low quantities, which pushes demand higher and higher. All of a sudden, huge waiting lists form, and people are willing to pay a small fortune to acquire one. Indeed, low numbers combined with high demand equals an aura of exclusivity that connoisseurs want to be a part of. And with designs that are so covetable and likely to appreciate over time, it’s ever likely they are scarce. Models like the Nautilus and Royal Oak sell out fast and for a small fortune on the pre-owned market. This is especially true for some discontinued references and a key reason why people choose to flip watches.
In essence, these three brands gradually earned their stripes as members of the Holy Trinity, not just by producing super popular designs, but by mastering the secrets of human psychology. When a timepiece becomes difficult to acquire, it becomes more desirable. Owning a watch that is one of a select few ever produced makes the owner feel part of an elite club. And when demand outstrips supply, prices rise. This scarcity causes them to sell for a premium on the secondary market, and they maintain their value as well. After all, these watches are not just a quick overnight purchase, but a solid investment.
Vacheron Constantin
Vacheron Constantin is one of the oldest manufacturers in continuous operation. Its motto, “Do better if possible, and that is always possible,” has been the driving force behind its success. Indeed, to wear a Vacheron Constantin watch is as good as declaring a piece of living history on your wrist.
From the reference 57260 with a total of 57 complications to its Berkley Grand Complication from the Les Cabinotiers range, this company produces some of the world’s most complex masterpieces. And its unbroken lineage is just another bonus!
The History of Vacheron Constantin
Vacheron Constantin can trace its roots back to 1755. Jean-Marc Vacheron founded the company and built it on a solid foundation of technical excellence. This brand is one of the very few whose history is not just a timeline of important releases. Instead, each release outlines a chapter in its story and a landmark revelation, both technically and aesthetically.
The first part of the brand’s story relates to Jean-Marc Vacheron’s apprenticeship and his creation of the first complication in 1790. However, by the year 1819, Jean-Marc’s grandson and his business partner, Jacques Barthémi Vacheron, had joined forces. By 1880, the Maltese Cross was the company’s emblem, inspired by a component inside one of its movements.
Vacheron Constantine designed the American 1921 watch in (you guessed it!) 1921. Its dial was at an angle, which made reading the time incredibly easy for drivers with their hands on the wheel. Vacheron Constantin then went on to develop the world’s thinnest manual-winding movement in 1955, and survived the Quartz Crisis by releasing the 222. This luxury steel sports watch bore the features of the icon that was soon to follow.
Other monumental releases include the world’s most complicated watch in 2015, with the release of the ref. 57260 to mark its 260th birthday. To put it simply, even though VC has been around for over two and a half centuries, it continues to have a profound impact on the world of Haute Horlogerie.
Overseas
Vacheron Constantin produced the Overseas watch as a successor to the 222 and didn’t release it until the 1990s. It came complete with an octagonal-shaped case, a six-sided bezel, and an integrated bracelet.
VC revamped the collection in 2016, giving us the most modern interpretation of the series as we know it. Today, its key selling points are its anti-magnetic protection and ability to transition from one strap to another effortlessly. Indeed, the Overseas has a versatile interchangeable strap system that allows you to transition from a rubber band to a metal bracelet in moments, without needing any fancy tools.
Popular models of the Vacheron Constantin Overseas watch include the classic three-handed self-winding model and the chronograph models within the series. Yet, for something more technically sophisticated, you could opt for an ultra-thin tourbillon or perpetual calendar.
The Overseas also promises an exceptional water-resistant capability of 150 meters, making it a perfect GADA watch.
Patrimony
The Patrimony watch collection is Vacheron Constantin’s elegant and minimalist dress watch. It’s the epitome of quiet luxury, with an understated charm that those familiar with the brand’s level of craftsmanship really appreciate.
The Patrimony is a pure, circular form, similar to the brand’s 1950s designs. It features a slim bezel that frames a set of slender baton-style hour markers that sit on an elegantly curving domed dial. Many of the movements within the Patrimony watch collection adhere to the standards of the Hallmark of Geneva stamp of approval. Even those engines hidden away bear beautiful decorative finishes to their hand-assembled components.
A range of complications exists in the Patrimony series, including those with retrograde displays, moon phases, and world time features. There are perpetual calendars, also. Plus, Patrimony watches are exclusively available in precious metals like platinum and gold, making them classic heirlooms.
Historiques
Just as a world-class car is a marvel of automotive engineering, a Vacheron Constantin Historiques watch is a masterpiece of mechanical precision. And as you may have figured out by now, its name, the Historiques, pays homage to some of VC’s most iconic and eccentric designs.
These modern reinterpretations span a 270-year history, highlighting the rare, the obscure, and the memorable of the watch world.v Historiques watches showcase modern technology and contemporary materials that vary in style. For example, the Historiques 1921 is Art Deco-inspired, while the Historiques Cornes de Vache 1955 features distinctive cow-horn lugs, making it a favorite among vintage enthusiasts.
The Historiques 222, of course, pays homage to the brand’s foray into the integrated sports watch, with a hexagonal bezel and slim case. In essence, these models allow VC to honour its past by celebrating its creativity and its living legacy.
Traditionelle
The Traditionelle watch collection features models rooted in the aesthetic codes of the brand’s historical timepieces. Typically, watches from this series share distinctive features, such as stepped cases for added depth and character, as well as classic dauphine hands. These, often in gold, provide a clean and elegant way to read the time.
Traditionelle watches also feature railway minute tracks that provide a precise scale for timekeeping and the Geneva baton hour markers that promote a minimalist display. The brand dedicates this collection to some of its most complicated designs. These include minute repeaters that chime on demand and tourbillons that work against the effects of gravity. Other mechanical feats include the “Twin Beat” perpetual calendar, which offers two different frequencies and an impressive 65-day power reserve.
Of course, being VC watches, these models attest to the highest standards of craftsmanship with hand-finished bridges, plates, and screw heads. In summary, these watches are the purest form of haute Horlogerie, combining technical finesse with elegance.
Audemars Piguet
Audemars Piguet is the rebel of the elite magic three team. It not only broke the rules of watchmaking but also made its own. The company builds its foundations on audacious design and technical supremacy, with its most groundbreaking sports watch launching in 1972.
The Royal Oak was the steel sports watch with the price tag of gold. Beyond this icon, however, is a catalogue of bold, boundary-pushing, innovative designs. Audemars Piguet also produces ceramic and carbon watches, and considers itself a leader in the realm of material exploration.
The History of Audemars Piguet
Audemars Piguet’s story begins in 1875, when two childhood friends, Jules Louis Audemars and Edward Auguste Piguet, shared a vision. In the village of Le Brassus, Switzerland, these skilled watchmakers began producing beautifully finished timepieces.
In the early days, AP held records for world firsts, such as the world’s first minute-repeating wristwatch in 1892. The brand also released the first Grand Complication pocket watch with a seconds complication in 1899. Audemars Piguet later began specialising in skeleton watches and thin movements.
When Asia introduced the first quartz-operated watch, threatening to wipe out traditional watchmaking for good, AP stood its ground. As I mentioned earlier, all three brands within the Holy Trinity uphold an unbroken lineage. Audemars Piguet responded with a bold and revolutionary sports watch in 1972, designed by Gerald Genta. Following the success of the Royal Oak, AP released the Royal Oak Offshore in 1993 and, much later, the Royal Oak Concept line.
Today, the brand remains fiercely independent and continues to lead in both forward-thinking avant-garde design and traditional values.
Royal Oak
We can’t provide an introduction to Audemars Piguet without mentioning the Royal Oak – a true horological landmark. It was the Royal Oak that made a radical departure from the traditional watch as society knew it. Its octagonal bezel takes inspiration from a diver’s helmet, while the integrated bracelet flows seamlessly from the case. Royal Oak watches also boast the “Tapisserie” dial, a signature pattern that requires a complex and meticulous machining process.
The first watch in the series was the Reference 5402, known as the “Jumbo”. It wasn’t an overnight sensation, but eventually became a cult-like collectible before the brand released the Offshore version in the 1990s. What made the watch even more alluring was the fact that Genta literally designed it overnight. Despite working under pressure, Genta created an absolute masterpiece, boasting a dynamic look that took on a rather nautical story.
The Royal Oak became the costliest steel sports watch on the market and, in short, saved the brand from an untimely demise. In some ways, it re-elevated mechanical watchmaking, so the industry has a lot to thank AP for.
Royal Oak Offshore
On the Royal Oak’s 20th anniversary, Audemars Piguet released the Royal Oak Offshore. Emmanuel Gueit designed this special model, equipping it with a bolder and more aggressive aesthetic. This polarising design took the world by storm, once more. The line now offers dive watches crafted from exotic materials, as well as the sporty chronograph.
Nicknamed “The Beast”, the Royal Oak Offshore was a decidedly bold departure from the original Royal Oak. Its oversized case with prominent “Mega Tapisserie” dial became the key element driving its appeal. And although Genta apparently called it an “elephant” and a “monstrosity,” it certainly didn’t put people off from buying it.
Code 11.59
The Code 11.59 was Audemars Piguet’s riskiest release. Launching in 2019, it marked a stark departure from the trusty Royal Oak. Its initial reception was challenging. Not everyone loved the design. Despite the scepticism and criticism from the general public, what was once simple and uninspiring became a stroke of architectural genius.
The C.O.D.E in the name represents “Challenge, Own, Dare, Evolve”, signifying a new chapter for the brand. The watch is also highly complex, featuring a multi-faceted case design, and an octagonal case middle – a gentle nod to the Royal Oak.
The sapphire crystal front of a Code 11.59 watch is dome-shaped, while underneath is an in-house movement featuring a sophisticated 70-hour power reserve. The collection has undergone numerous refinements since its initial release as well. Now, the models boast a mesmerizing guilloche-textured dial and case options in ceramic. The range even accommodates a “Supersonnerie” minute repeater.
Patek Philippe
Connoisseurs often consider Patek Philippe to be the pinnacle of watchmaking excellence. For over 180 years, it has been family-run. This watchmaker produces quintessential heirlooms, specialising in collectables and designs of horological significance.
As one of the industry’s firsts and bests, it can lay claim to over 100 patents and prides itself on pursuing perfection. Among its many covetable designs are its Crand complications and the simple, yet timeless-looking, Calatrava.
The History of Patek Philippe
Patek Philippe began writing its story back in 1839 in Geneva, when Polish watchmaker Antoni Patek and his partner Franciszek Czapek created the brand. At this point, the brand went under the name Patek, Czapek & Cie before laying the foundations for Patek Philippe.
In 1945, the company developed the Keyless Winding System, eliminating the need for winding a watch with a key. It was a game-changer for the industry. Then, in 1851, Queen Victoria purchased a Patek watch. Things went relatively quiet for the company until 1932, when the Stern family purchased the company’s rights. It was a pivotal moment in the brand’s history.
The Stern family produced some great innovations, including the Calatrava in 1932 and the Nautilus during the 1970s. The watchmaker even championed the most complicated watch in 1989 with the Calibre 89 and lives by the motto “You never actually own a Patek Philippe. You merely look after it for the next generation”.
Nautilus
The Nautilus is a great place to start when giving an overview of Patek Philippe as a brand. It came after the Calatrava and is still a horological phenomenon. Arguably the most sought-after sports watch in the entire world, it defines the word “icon”.
Patek Philippe launched the Nautilus in 1976 during the height of the Quartz Crisis. Considering the brand was famous for its elegant dress watches, this sports watch was a bold leap. Legend has it that Genta drew the Nautilus design on a napkin after overhearing a discussion between the company in a restaurant. It takes inspiration from the porthole of an ocean liner and boasts an octagonal bezel, with “hinges” on either side.
The original Nautilus was the Reference 3700/1A, boasting a price tag comparable to that of a gold watch. Its 42mm “Jumbo” size was large for its time, while its dial had a horizontal grooved texture. However, it was the discontinuation of the brand’s most popular reference, the 5711, that sent fans into a frenzy. Understandably, this only sent prices soaring on the secondary market.
Today, the Nautilus is still a symbol of discreet yet undeniable wealth, which explains why some celebrities of high status like singer-songwriter Ed Sheeran own several.
Aquanuat
Similar to the Nautilus, Patek Philippe designed the Aquanaut to appeal to a new clientele. Resonating with a younger demographic, this youthful, classic design was also more accessible. It became the little sister to the Nautilus, AKA the “Junior Nautilus”, taking inspiration from its porthole design.
You’ll likely recognise the Aquanaut watch for its tropical strap. This is a durable, comfortable composite material that elevates the watch’s robustness. This means that the Aquanaut is a design for those with active lifestyles, where saltwater corrosion is an inevitability.
Its grenade dial features a unique embossed pattern, similar to a checkerboard, with a texture that tastefully extends into the rubber strap. Very different from the Nautilus, it boasts a versatile aesthetic that pairs well with all types of attire.
The Aquanaut series offers complications, including the Aquanaut Travel Time with a GMT feature and the classic chronograph. Precious metals are also available in this design. Such materials include rose gold and white gold, as well as conventional steel iterations. For a touch more pizzazz, ladies can choose models from the Luce sub-collection, adorned in diamond decoration.
In essence, Patek Philippe took a significant leap of faith in designing the Aquanaut, but it paid off. Rather than risk the brand’s conservative image, it brought a sporty versatility to a youthful demographic. And the fact that it was almost as popular as the Nautilus is a testament to Patek’s uncompromising core values.
Calatrava
Patek Philippe launched the Calatrava watch back in 1932, so it’s one of the brand’s oldest collections still in production. This was a strategic move by the Stern family, who sought to make a lasting impact with this watch. Its clean lines were a bold step away from the Art Deco era, embracing an almost Bauhaus-inspired look.
The Calatrava has a flawlessly round case shape, a thin profile, and integrated lugs that enable the watch to slip under the cuff of a shirt. The dial promotes simplicity and minimalism, with dauphine hands against a Clous de Paris display.
Of course, this wouldn’t be a Patek Philippe watch unless it showcases mechanical purity through its design. Nevertheless, these watches feature only minor complications, such as date windows and small seconds indicators.
The Calatrava is one of those watches that make a great companion for the next generation and then the one after that. These creations never go out of style, which is one reason they make for such great family heirlooms.
Conclusion
Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, and Audemars Piguet make up the “Holy Trinity” of watchmaking and produce some of the most expensive watches in the world. This esteemed trio sits on a foundation of horological firsts and mechanical feats. From ultra-thin perpetual calendars to iconic grails, these brands produce masterpieces that do far more than tell the time.
Each of these brands is a living example of the endurance and innovation a company needs to achieve success. Meticulous hand-finished movements and techniques, such as Cotes de Geneve and perlage, are just some of the gold standards in watchmaking that these companies employ.
So, as you look at your own watch, ask yourself what you value most in a treasured timepiece. Is it the brand’s ability to create a cultural icon? Is it the story behind a particular collection? Or is it the growth from a small one-man band to a huge nerve centre of innovation? Is it simply a timeless design?
We’d love to hear your thoughts. Share your favourite watch from the Holy Trinity, or let us know which brand you think deserves a similar title. Don’t forget to sign up for our newsletter at The Slender Wrist, too!
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