Are Bell and Ross watches worth your time? Here’s my take.
If you like your watch brands to have a century and a half of horological history behind them, I’m about to disappoint you. Bell & Ross is still a newcomer in the industry, but has quickly learned the ropes and is fast becoming a master of horological brilliance.
The young Parisian watchmaker has come a long way in its mere 30 years of existence, forging a unique identity for itself.
If the brand intrigues you, know that you’re not alone. In this article, I’m going to shine the spotlight on some key Bell & Ross watch designs. I’ll also explain why the brand divides opinion with its bold, dynamic, and daring creations.
On the flip side, I’ll prove why so many watch enthusiasts love this strong industry contender. So, without further ado, let’s talk about Bell and Ross watches.
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Who Do Bell and Ross Watches Appeal To?
If I’m being completely honest, Bell and Ross’s watches aren’t everyone’s cup of tea. These conspicuous watches are an acquired taste. Personally, I love them. Seemingly, professional divers, pilots, bomb disposal experts, and astronauts all agree with me.
To grab a piece of the watch market pie, the brand has had to do some pretty bold things. To compete, it must stand out. Take, for example, the BR 03 92 FULL LUM limited edition watch.
Its entirely lume-covered dial brings unparalleled brightness to the wrist in the dead of night. What about the brand’s elaborate Skull Watch designs? They certainly put the “F” in flashy.
The French manufacturer’s 2005 signature circle-within-a-square design, inspired by vintage military watches, is still a huge success. Since the initial release of the BR 01, the famous design has evolved into several sub-categories.
You can now choose from a plethora of pilot watches, dive watches, and sports watches. They all feature a circular dial, square case, and four-screw decoration.
Bell & Ross is not the only watchmaker specializing in military-inspired watches, however. Other brands deserve a mention, too.
Sinn makes watches from submarine steel. Hamilton offers an affordable range. And the tactical tool watches from Luminox are also a great budget-friendly option.
Bell & Ross watches are just that little bit different, though. They encompass all things military, from vintage dashboards to cockpit control panels. All the while, they feel modern — almost futuristic.
It has created Special Forces watches, tools for the Air Forces, and diving commandos. You name it, the brand has done it!
Thoroughly deserving of its great reputation, the company is now synonymous with quality craftsmanship and materials.
Check out this latest neo-vintage BR 03 92 Diver Black & Green Bronze watch, for example. Its unusual teal-green tones are a perfect contrast against a black diver’s bezel and a bronze case.
The History of Bell & Ross Watches
Bell & Ross grew up in the 90s. It was an era where Omega Speedmasters and Rolex Yacht-Masters were the order of the day. The brand began in 1992 with two university students, Bruno Belamich and Carlos Rosillo.
They shared a vision to create instrumental timepieces inspired by military tools from a bygone era. Some of the first models were re-branded Sinn watches.
An example would be the Space 1 watch — the first automatic chronometer that ventured into space. Another example is the 11,100-meter water-resistant Hydromax, based on Sinn’s oil-filled watches.
Over the years, Bell & Ross really came into its own. It began manufacturing watches in-house, such as the one made for the bomb disposal French Security Services.
This Type Demineur watch made way for the iconic BR 01 in 2005. It marked a huge shift in the company. The circle-within-a-square design was an instant hit. Big, bold, and different, it became a true cornerstone and a watchmaking icon.
Multiple versions of the strong yet simple design then arrived. The dashboard instrument-inspired watch branched out into designs like the BR 01 Tourbillon. Its cutting-edge design featured a case carved from black-coated lightweight titanium.
Then, the BR 03 Diver brought smaller dimensions of 42mm. The BR 05 GMT and Chronograph watches followed, not forgetting the BR X5 models with a sportier aesthetic.
Now, let’s take a look at two stand-out watch designs made by Bell & Ross over the last few years.
The Bell and Ross Skull Watch
The Bell and Ross Skull watches belong to the brand’s Concept range. They are among some of the company’s most daring, off-the-wall designs of all. These creations pay homage to the parachutists of the Second World War, keeping the brand’s military-inspired message intact.
The formidable fighters sported skulls on their clothing to intimidate their enemies. Now Bell & Ross’ designs incorporate the skull and crossbones. They include the Cyber Skull watch, available in bronze or sapphire and the highly collectible Laughing Skull watch.
The manufacturer equips these watches with an in-house movement that brings the jaw of the skull to life. If you’re into statement pieces, these Skull watches are very cool novelties to own.
The Bell and Ross Radar Watch
If Bell and Ross stand out for one thing in particular, it has to be the brand’s flight instruments. These models revisit the graphics of vintage navigation instruments, like the Gyrocompass. The model, crafted from stealthy matte black ceramic, boasts a fighter plane on the dial.
Yet, it is watches like the Radar that demand the most attention. The BR 03 92 Red Radar Ceramic watch turned many heads when the brand released it back in 2021.
Portraying aircraft control radar, it introduced enthusiasts to a whole new way of timekeeping. With this model, you read the time via a system of rotating discs. These moving discs put on an impressive visual display that is almost on par with the Laughing Skull.
What makes the Bell and Ross Radar watch stand out even more is its red-tinted sapphire display, which floods the dial with color. Two concentric discs replace the hour and minute hands, displaying the correct time via screen-printed aircraft.
A passenger plane flies over the hour ring, while a fighter plane depicts the minute track. This leaves only one central hand to display the passing seconds conventionally.
Again, the Red Radar watch is yet another insight into Bell & Ross and its boundary-pushing nature.
Bell and Ross Watch Prices
Bell and Ross watch prices fluctuate on the market. Having said that, there’s still a clear distinction between the affordable and the expensive. The starting price for an entry-level quartz is around $2000. Prices increase from there, with mid-range BR 03 watches sitting in the middle.
The most expensive models from the French watch manufacturer are those like the Laughing Skull Diamond. As you’d expect, it features a mechanical moving jaw depicting a laughing skull and exquisite diamond decoration.
One of the most expensive Bell & Ross Watches of all is the BR-X1 Skeleton Tourbillon Sapphire, priced at $410,000.
Bell and Ross Watch Straps
You can purchase Bell and Ross watch straps and clasps directly from the brand or via an official stockist. You can choose between straps for the BR 01, 03, 05, and V1 range, depending on your model. There’s also a multitude of leather and rubber strap colors to choose from.
If you’re looking for a cheaper option, many watch strap suppliers stock Bell & Ross strap alternatives. Examples of places to shop for these aftermarket straps include WatchGecko, Horus Straps, and Watch Band Center.
Bell and Ross Watches for Sale
You can buy Bell & Ross watches brand new from an official stockist or second-hand from a pre-owned dealer. While not as expensive as the likes of Rolex or Patek Philippe, they aren’t cheap. You can find pre-owned Bell & Ross watches in mint condition for considerably less than an official retailer’s price.
If you’re in search of Bell and Ross watches for sale, simple three-handed models like the BR V1 can sell for as little as $1000. Expect to pay more for complication watches like the BR 03 GMT. You can pick up a watch like this for around $2,600 on the pre-owned market.
The brand’s steel sports watch, like the BR 05, costs a little more. Expect to pay around $3,700 for one of these.
The most expensive Bell & Ross watches for sale, however, are those like the BRX1-CHTB-PG Tourbillon Rose Gold. The expertly crafted tourbillon shows off some of the brand’s finest horological capabilities and costs around $118,000.
FAQs
Here are some details that people want to know about Bell & Ross watches.
Are Bell and Ross Watches a Good Investment?
Some Bell & Ross watches can make great investments. The brand’s unique designs attract horology enthusiasts far and wide. The BR 01 is the brand’s most recognizable watch, appealing to collectors worldwide. Likewise, limited edition models are rare, making them equally as popular.
Are Bell and Ross Watches Luxury?
Bell & Ross is a luxury watch brand that focuses on high-end materials to craft its robust and impactful designs. The company’s prices reflect this commitment to quality and authenticity.
The Verdict
What a contrast from cockpit instruments to skull and bones, right? Bell & Ross’ catalog is such a diverse one. Even if you don’t own several men’s Bell and Ross watches, your curiosity has likely driven you to check the brand out.
These instrument-inspired military watches have a strong identity that fans go crazy for, but they’re not for everyone.
Do Bell & Ross watches tickle your fancy? Let us know in the comments, or subscribe to our newsletter at The Slender Wrist to read up on more topics like this.
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