Seven  Russian Watch Brands Making Killer Watches

If these Russian watch brands aren’t on your radar yet, they should be. Explore the key brands making waves in the Russian market right now.

We hear Russia’s name and think about The Red Square –  a famous tourist hot spot. We think about beautiful Lake Baikai, composers like Pyotr Ilyich, or famous writers like Leo Tolstoy.  Russian vodka! Now, that’s a specialty this country is renowned for. But watches? Really? Well, yes. They make them, too. Russian watch brands are pretty rare among a broad spectrum of domineering Swiss and Japanese competitors. 

While the debate remains regarding which country makes the best watches, Russia is still somewhat of an underdog. The truth is, when you start to explore deeper, Russian watches are meticulous, formal, and classic. Some designs are reminiscent of clockwork from years ago, while others appeal to aviator, military, and dive watch lovers. 

There are two reasons why watch brands from Russia can be confusing to collectors outside of the country. First, besides Vostok, these watch brands can be challenging to find west of Belarus. Second, deciphering brand names can be tough if you aren’t familiar with the Cyrillic alphabet. For instance, you might see the name “Ракета” on a dial. However, since the brand uses the Cyrillic alphabet, you actually pronounce it “Raketa” in English. 

Navigating the muddy waters of Russian-made watches can confuse novice vintage collectors. This is especially true for those that were once state-owned and have since been privatized. Such transitions often result in name changes, which can lead to confusion. But I’m here to help. 

In this article, I aim to keep things simple. I’ll provide a brief overview of the key Russian brands leading the way forward in the horological stratosphere right now. But first, you may wonder where and how you can purchase a watch from Russia. 

Where To Buy Russian Watches in 2024 

During the 1960s, watches in Russia were popular because of their design and quality. But exports of watches to America by Russia ceased after the 1991 fall of the Soviet Union. After this, many companies, including respectable watch brands, either changed ownership or became bankrupt. Due to the Russo-Ukranian war, these watches, once again, became more challenging to source from the year 2022 onwards. The US government put sanctions and regularity controls in place to prevent importing certain Russian products. These included oil, gold, coal, seafood, alcohol, and jewelry.  

There are a couple of reasons why watches from Russia appeal to modern-day collectors. Firstly, they are relatively cheap compared to some high-end Swiss brands. They’re also quirky in nature and look different. However, that doesn’t solve the problem of them being hard to source. That said, there are ways to obtain Russian watches on the Internet. One of the most accessible platforms is Amazon. Chrono24 also sells several brands of Russian originincluding many affordable options. You can shop a broad range of pre-owned watches from eBay as well as grey market stockists.

Russian Military Watches 

Russia is worth a look if you’re a brave soul like me, willing to venture offshore and explore options a little further around the horological map. Soviet watches have a history dating back to the 1930s. Their story may not be as romantic as their Swiss counterparts. Nevertheless, they’re no less intriguing. Early watches from the Soviet Union were purpose-built. That goes for civilian timepieces and those for the military. They were also pretty unique and creative!

Russian military watches have heaps of history, capturing their era’s design, politics, culture, and style. During the Industrial Revolution, the demand for military watches eradicated any need for luxury timepieces. Instead, the Soviet Union purchased the Dueber-Hampden Watch Company and Ansonia Clock Company from the US and relocated them. They became the First State Watch Factory and the Second Moscow Watch Factory. Here, frivolous features were removed, cutting costs and enabling a stronger focus on hardier features like shock and water resistance. 

Peak exports in the 1960s propelled brands like Vostok, Poljot, Raketa, Slava, and many others. Let’s take a look at some of those names now. 

The Best Russian Watch Brands to Look Out For

Brands within the USSR did a grand job of borrowing inspiration from foreign watchmakers during the 1960s. Even the blueprints of some famous movements had a complete redesign. The Zenith Caliber 135, for example, became the Vostok Precision 2809. Some of the brands responsible for these revelations are still around today. Here are some of the leading names in Russian watchmaking right now. 

1. Vostok

If you like military watches and dive tools, Vostok is your brand. The first Vostok watch arrived in 1942, yet the name would not become official for another 23 years. In 1942, the Vostok name appeared on the dials of these watches. The company also became a supplier to the Soviet Union’s Department of Defense. 

Vostok is still one of the most famous Russian watch companies. Even so, it’s not a common brand in the grand scheme of things. Compared to mainstream manufacturers, Vostok is not always the first choice. But all watches from Vostok have a unique Eastern European flare, with strong “tool watch” DNA. Specialist collectors appreciate the fact that this brand is one of very few producing its own mechanicals. 

Vostok showcases its design sensibilities in models like the Amphibia 420059, which the company lovingly refers to as the Scuba Dude watch. It features all the dive watch basics: dial legibility, 200 meters of water resistance, and a unidirectional bezel. Then there are the thin hour indices, the dotted bezel, and the eye-catching diver illustration on the dial.

2. Sturmanskie

The first Sturmanskie prototypes arrived in 1949 from Moscow in what was the First Moscow Watch Factory. Still designed in the same area (now named Volmax), some of the best dynasties of Russian watchmakers engineer Sturmanskie watches. The brand takes inspiration from Soviet and Russian cosmonautics, assembling them all exclusively by hand. 

The brand’s history nods back to 1961 when Yuri Gagarin became the first man to go to space. He wore a Sturmanskie pilot watch, bringing the name great fame throughout the Soviet nations. Today, Sturmanskie is a brand that appeals to lovers of Russian-specific vintage aesthetics. 

The Gagarin, in particular, takes inspiration from the timepiece Yuri wore in space. The collection is home to designs featuring compact stainless steel cases and plenty of classic vintage elements. Red starred wings feature beneath the hands, while hand-wound movements preserve the classic appeal of these models. These watches use a mineral watch glass front, featuring a special cosmonaut engraving on the case back. They’re a great option if you don’t want to drop thousands on an Omega Speedmaster. You can join the horological space watches circle by adding this watch to your collection for much less. 

3. Strela

Strela uses Russian MakTime movements in its designs and creates chronographs, alarms, and stopwatches to a high level. Reflecting the vintage Soviet design DNA, these watches often feature Latin and Cyrillic versions. Since the brand’s owner resides in Munich, they also fuse Russian aesthetics with German influences. 

The company’s Cosmos watches are a little like Russian Bulova Lunar Pilots and come in a 38mm version. Great for small wrists, they bear busy and scientific-looking dials that we often associate with space watches. The use of baton indices on such a technical-looking face, plus the Cyrillic writing, is both innovative and quirky. The Cosmos will undoubtedly appeal to those seeking to avoid Swiss classics. Again, it’s what collectors look for when opting for an Eastern European counterpart to popular Western timepieces.

4. Raketa

Raketa, which means “rocket,” manufactures its watches in beautiful Saint Petersburg. It arrived in the ‘60s and immediately became a go-to brand for expeditions. The brand is synonymous with exploration. For two decades since its inception, Raketa’s tool watches have been arming the wrists of Russian polar explorers. Raketa is respectable for many reasons. It created its own in-house movements and developed the 24-hour movement, which features in its modern Polar Antarctica Petrodvorets watch.

The brand’s Big Zero watch is a perfect example when discussing Raketa’s zest for artistic, visually captivating dials. While some examples like the Kopernik are not the easiest to read the time from, the Big Zero is loud and proud. It’s incredibly fun to look at, constituting a great conversation starter. You have a sheer white dial with bold black Arabic numerals and triangular markers here. The 12 o’clock location features a “0”, which Raketa adopts as a more logical start to counting the time. The painted numerals take up a huge proportion of the dial. Other than that, the display is sparse and minimalist for superb legibility. What’s more, Raketa is excellent at producing sub-40mm watches!

5. Slava

If you’re looking for Soviet culture and high-quality craftsmanship, Slava ticks both boxes. The company produces models like the Sputnik, Medical, and Automatic 2427, all contributing to the brand’s global recognition. It was also the first to produce a Soviet wristwatch with an automatic calendar mechanism. 

Slava’s catalog of designs offers both classic and contemporary options. The pulsometer scale was another innovation for the Russian watch brand. It appeared in the brand’s Medical watch in the 1850s, followed by the Sputnik in the 1960s. Collaborations with Vostok and Raketa also gained the company more recognition and respect among connoisseurs.  

6. Zlatoust

Zlatoust watches are humongous. They’re so big and bold that they almost look like costume pieces. While I’m sure Zlatoust uses size as part of its brand aesthetic, it also has roots in practicality and history. Zlatoust produced diver watches for the Soviet forces, putting them on the map for robustness and quality. Even the USSR Navy Force watches stand out with their magnificent 700-meter water resistance capabilities!

There are still collectors who believe no one else can beat what the Swiss and Japanese do. To them, I recommend a day on the wrist with a Zlatoust. The brand’s Zlatoust AGAT 295 Bronze watch has an unusual oversized crown at 9 o’clock. This helps to uphold a 700m water resistance. The meteorite dial pattern is another cool feature. It provides the backdrop to large, luminous Arabic numerals, creating a bold and simple look. 

7. Luch

To me, Luch watches have an air of German sophistication. They remind me of timekeeping instruments made by Meistersinger, mainly because of their one-handed design. 

Until now, Meistersinger was the only brand I knew that did the single-handed dial design so well. I had to change my mind when I saw these Luch watches. They’re affordable, simple, and effective. The concept behind the one-handed dial is to promote a clearer and more relaxed approach to keeping time. Luch achieves this with this 38mm watch, a perfect size for small wrists.

But Luch is famous for more than this design alone. It dips its toes into the fashion watch territory with affordable price tags and signature aesthetics. For $70, you can’t grumble at the model’s hand-wound movement. The watch also boasts all the Luch trademark features, including double-digit hour markers and a classic black leather band. 

FAQs 

One of the key reasons some collectors like to acquire Russian watches is that they’re unique and nostalgic. If you’re still unsure whether these watches are for you, these FAQs may help clarify some key points.

Are Russian Watches Any Good?  

Many collectors argue that watches made in Russia are more than just good. There are many intriguing, quirky, and military-inspired styles to choose from, many of which are surprisingly affordable. 

What Is the Best Russian Watch Brand?  

Russian watch enthusiasts and collectors regard Vostok as one of the best Russian watch brands. The company produces the famous Amphibian watch, which has superior watch resistance and a durable case. Vostok is also a popular entry-level option for those looking to enter the horological sphere.

Are Russian Watches Valuable?  

Some Russian watches can hold their value. Some can even appreciate in value as the independent watchmaking scene expands. Factors that deem a watch valuable include rarity, brand provenance, and condition.  

Winding Up 

Russia once had a booming watch scene. Once war erupted, however, many watches became difficult to acquire in the US.  Today, there are simple and easy ways to obtain a Russian watch. Amazon, eBay, and other e-commerce stores are great options for exploring the many available designs. Chrono24 is particularly good for pre-owned Russian-made timepieces.  There’s also a thriving, supportive community of online collectors who can guide you in the right direction.  

Collecting vintage Soviet-era watches and exploring modern-day Russian wrist watch brands is a fun and cost-friendly endeavor. Many designs are off-the-wall and don’t follow the classic Swiss format. They’re an excellent option for anyone looking to stand out from the crowd.  The good news is that these watches are of good quality, reliable, affordable, and relatively easy to service. Many also promise modest sizes for smaller-wristed males.

Do you have a favorite vintage watch from Russia?  Maybe you own something younger and bolder? Let us know in the comments below. For more articles like this, you can sign up for our newsletter at The Slender Wrist today!