Unlike the one you find in the zoo, the panda in watch form has never been endangered. There are plenty of panda dial watches on the market. Here are some of the best.
Following the 2017 sale of the “Paul Newman”, Rolex Daytona at a record-breaking $17.5M, the panda dial has been the subject of much intrigue and curiosity. It was, after all, the famous Crown that brought it into existence.
Its universally loved motorsport-inspired dial became a catalyst for the popularity of the racing watch.
The legendary actor and racing driver wore it while participating in various races, creating a lot of hype. He received it as a gift following a car accident, and it became part of his identity.
Panda dial watches like this aren’t as uncommon as you may think. Despite its distinctive aesthetic, many brands offer a design in this color arrangement. Both new and vintage ones exist. Before we look at some of the most popular, let’s explore what actually defines one.
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What Is a Panda Dial Watch?
So, what is a panda dial watch? The term “Panda Watch” refers to the style of a chronograph dial that emerged during the 1960s. Given that this layout and contrasting choice of colors enhance legibility, it’s no wonder this chronograph has garnered such interest.
Typically, this type of watch featured black-filled chronograph counters placed upon a white dial in the 3-6-9 layout. But there are variations, too.
Sometimes, a panda dial watch has three chronographs, sometimes not. Sometimes, it has a matching black tachymeter, sometimes not. Sometimes, the main dial is white, sometimes cream, silver, or champagne.
Different versions can include the bi-compax layout, with counters placed at 3 and 9 o’clock. Whatever the variation, the important factor is its contrasting black-and-white (or near-white) combination.
Of course, you don’t need a degree in physics and astronomy to work out where the panda watch gets its name from. It may not have the same cuteness factor as the fuzzy little bear itself.
Those fluffy ears and black eye patches can melt you in seconds. But what the panda dial lacks in adorability, it makes up for with charm and character.
The History of the Panda Chronograph
From what we know, the Rolex Daytona ref 6239 seems to mark the beginnings of the Panda. The seminal racing watch emerged around the same time as the Heuer Carrera. That model remains one of the most collectible in history. But that’s another story!
The Rolex Daytona Panda was the watch that found its way onto the wrist of famous racing driver Paul Newman. Its high-contrast dial became inextricably linked with the sport thereafter.
Other similar versions of this high-contrast dial were popular during the same period, particularly the reverse panda type. For example, in 1957, Breitling launched the Superocean watch bearing this look. It followed suit in 1966 with its version of the panda chronograph.
The Rolex Daytona Panda
As I mentioned, the Rolex Daytona panda, released in 1963, has remained a highly covetable design ever since. The references 6263 and 6265 are the two major designs that define this style. Today, we see that design in more modern interpretations like the ref 116500LN and the 126500LN.
These models feature what we nickname the “Paul Newman” dial, with black sub-counters against a white display. They encompass the iconic “5 circle” design. This refers to the bezel, the black minute track, and the three sub-dials at 3, 6, and 9 o’clock.
The Rolex Daytona Ref 126500LN
The modern 126500LN version of the Rolex Daytona panda shows the evolution of the brand’s iconic design. The white creates a crisp backdrop to a set of three black rings, which form the chronograph counters.
The watch, released in 2023, shows a gently modified case shape and subtle refinements made to the sub-counter rings, which are now slimmer. The bezel now benefits from a Cerachrom insert for longer-lasting fade resistance, framing a set of longer indices, too.
Other advancements when comparing the modern and original Daytona Panda watches include a Triplock crown, an Oysterflex bracelet, and an Oysterlock clasp. The movement of the newer version also features a Parachrom hairspring and Paraflex shock absorber.
The Seiko Panda Chronograph
The Seiko Panda chronograph, namely the ref 6138-8020, is another legendary collectible. Arriving in 1973, it became synonymous with the world of motorsport and aviation.
It was one of the world’s first automatic chronographs, carrying real historical significance for the Japanese brand. It was even worn on the wrist of Steve McQueen, famous for his relationship with the iconic TAG Heuer Monaco.
The Seiko 6138-8020 is no longer in production but, at the time, boasted some pretty innovative features. Its panda dial featured a tachymeter scale, polished hour markers, and black hands propelled by an in-house movement. That movement featured a vertical clutch and column wheel mechanism for an overall smoother performance.
Prospex ‘Panda’ One-Hundredth of a Second Speedtimer Solar Chronograph ref SFJ001P1
You can still enjoy Seiko panda chronographs today, like the Prospex ‘Panda’ One-Hundredth of a Second Speedtimer Solar Chronograph. This ref SFJ001P1 is a much more modern interpretation with an unusual layout.
It features chronograph subdials at 9, 12, and 3 o’clock, along with main timekeeping hands in a larger subcounter at 6H.
This solar-powered steel watch bears the chronograph caliber 8A50 engine, which measures to the nearest one-hundredth of a second. It also features hammer-shaped buttons, donating a unique spin to the familiar panda watch.
The Tudor Panda Chronograph
The Tudor panda chronograph in the Black Bay series continues the collection’s neo-vintage identity. The Black Bay has a legible dial and a robust diver’s bezel. It was instrumental in Tudor’s resurrection in the 2010s.
To say the Tudor Black Bay Panda watch is a more affordable version of its sister brand’s Daytona chronograph is a disservice. The stopwatch take on the Black Bay model launched in 2017. It combined diving elements with racing features.
The Tudor Black Bay Chrono Ref 79360N
In 2021, Tudor released the Black Bay Chrono in both a panda and reverse panda design. The classic interpretation of the panda features a black anodized aluminum bezel insert and the collection’s iconic “Snowflake” hands.
Integrated with 200-meter water-resistant capabilities, the Calibre MT5813 stays intact, free from harm, delivering a 70-hour power reserve. The Tudor Black Bay Chrono panda also features a riveted stainless steel bracelet to match its 41mm case.
5 Best Panda Watches
Here is a list of some of the best panda watches you can currently get on the market.
Zenith El Primero Ref A384
The tonneau-shaped case and panda dial of this Zenith El Primero recreates an original from 1969. This brand may not be the most well-known for the legendary Panda, but it makes up for its accuracy.
This panda watch features an El Primero movement that promises 36,000 vibrations per hour. The high-frequency chronograph pairs well with a beautiful black leather band and black tachymeter, perfectly recreating a vintage classic.
TAG Heuer Autavia Flyback Chronometer Ref CBE511B.FC8279
TAG Heuer’s Autavia watch was the brand’s first dashboard timer for the racing car industry. Since then, the brand has been inextricably linked with motor racing.
The TAG Heuer Autavia Flyback Chronometer boasts two black-filled chronograph dials at 3 and 9 o’clock. The small seconds dial has a tone-on-tone finish to match the silver color of the main dial.
Along with a black ceramic bezel, this watch does not have a tachymeter but features an integrated date window with subsidiary seconds. The 42mm watch showcases piston-style, polished steel pushers and finishes on a comfortable black leather strap.
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak
If you’re looking for a panda watch with a twist, the Royal Oak’s unmistakable octagonal-shaped case delivers the wow factor in bucket loads. The Royal is not a small chronograph, but those who like to make a statement love it.
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Panda watch is not the cheapest of designs. But watches that carry a reputation as impressive as this are worth the investment.
This has to be the holy grail of panda watches, and if you’re an Audemars Piguet wearer, you’ll know what I mean when I say that. This design combines the most iconic sports watch style with oodles of functionality.
What’s more, the black-on-white combination adorns the brand’s famous Grande Tapisserie dial- an AP hallmark. You also get an integrated steel bracelet to complete the ultimate sports watch aesthetic.
Omega Speedmaster Apollo 11 35th Anniversary
What may surprise you is that the Speedmaster initially began its life as a tool for motorsport. This watch, however, marks the 35th anniversary of the Apollo 11 mission. The Speedmaster played an integral role in this historic landmark.
The white dial with black sub-dials is a popular look for “Speedy” fans. This model, produced in a limited run of 3,500 pieces, features the memorable date of the moon landing etched on its surface.
Lorier Gemini Series II
There are also affordable versions of the panda watch on the market. The Gemini SII is a perfect example.
What I love about Lorier is its classic take on the Panda. The model comes with a stack of retro charm. Its Hesalite crystal front keeps costs down, as does an old-school movement, the Seagull ST19.
For its price-to-performance ratio, the movement excels with its column wheel mechanism. The Lorier Gemini II even features Super-LumiNova-coated bezel markings to match the luminous dial elements for nocturnal brilliance.
The inspiration behind this Lorier chronograph is palpable. Nods to the Heuer Autavia and Daytona are all in there, yet at the same time, the brand puts its own stamp on this affordable panda watch.
The Gemini II sees some aesthetical updates that Lorier implements to demonstrate it truly listens to its audience. Modifications include changes to the indices, dial finishes, and lug length. What’s more, the brand has even hinted at an exciting reverse panda watch launch. Watch this space.
Best Reverse Panda Watch
Arguably, the reverse panda is just as handsome. Breitling captures the attractive silver-on-black aesthetic with one of its masterfully crafted chronographs. The elegant BreitlingTop Time B01 Deus.
Breitling Top Time B01 Deus Ref AB01765A1B1A1
There’s just something about the reverse panda dial that really captivates. Breitling even injects the Top Time B01 Deus with vivid shots of red and orange color.
This sporty number, like all Top Time watches, captures the verve of an era where motorcycles and sports cars were all the rage. Co-designed with Australian surf and motorcycle company Deus Ex Machina, it boasts the formidable reverse panda design.
The speed measuring tachymeter scale in white surrounds a rich black dial with sporty “squircle” white sub-counters. The watch also comes in an option featuring a vintage-inspired mesh steel bracelet or perforated leather band.
Wrapping Up
The panda dial watch looks good. The market’s vast array of options reflects the popularity of the contrasting black-against-white design. That said, other variations deliver equal style and appeal. These include the reverse panda, vertical panda, and even semi-panda (contrasting dials but not black or white).
Whatever your preference for the panda watch dial, one thing is for sure. You’ll never be short of options. It has truly earned its position as an undeniably charming, sporty classic.
What’s your dream panda dial watch? Let us know in the comments.
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