The Milsub Rolex is synonymous with the term grail watch. Its storied history and distinct features will give you insight on why.
The Submariner is the world’s most famous dive — the watch that launched a thousand homages. But which of its many references is the stand-out model?
Perhaps the 6204, the inaugural Sub, made waves at 1954 Baselworld. Maybe it’s the 6583, the Big Crown Sub that Sean Connery sported with a dinner jacket.
My answer? It’s not one reference but a set, the ones that make up the variant line known as the Rolex Milsub.
James Bond may be fictional, but the British Ministry of Defense’s shrewd early adoption of offensive dive watches was very real. The Milsub Rolex started as a standard issue for the MOD.
Today, it’s one of the most elusive and sought-after vintage sports watches in history.
Let’s dive into this remarkable timepiece. I’ll start with some Rolex Milsub history and then move on to what makes it different from the core Submariners.
Table of Contents
Rolex Milsub History: Swiss Watchmaking Meets British Defense
Rolex started its courtship with the British Ministry of Defense in 1954. Putting their best foot forward, they supplied the British Royal Navy with the Big Crown Submariner, reference 6538.
This watch would become more famous as the first (possibly ultimate) James Bond watch. In 1962, Sean Connery wore this exact reference in 007’s first cinematic romp, Dr. No.
Not even ten years after World War II, the MOD knew that Rolex was the go-to for water resistance. They also knew that military-level dive watches were imminent for the future of military dive units.
So, the MOD asked Rolex to make some changes to the Submariners they were provided.
The Birth of the Milsub Rolex
As it turned out, Rolex was mostly there. Royal Navy divers only had two points of feedback to the crown.
First, the spring bars on the commercially available Submariners were far too weak for the kind of impact military divers may be subjected to. Since the bracelet attaches to the watch via these spring bars, a design change was important.
Second, the bezel was difficult to operate when divers were wearing their gloves. The rotating bezel is used to track how long they’ve been underwater, otherwise known as bottom time.
Suffice it to say, being able to use the bezel easily is paramount when it comes to oxygen and energy conservation. And this is especially so when it comes to MOD divers who may find themselves in tight spots, time-wise.
So, Rolex made the changes.
What Makes the Rolex Milsub Different?
Compared to the regular Submariner, the Military Submariner is overall more robust. It features spring bars that are soldered to the lugs. This makes it stronger and easier to accommodate a NATO nylon strap.
The bezel is brawnier, too. The larger bezel literally hangs over the sides of the case, with deep serrated edging. This way, those wearing thick diving gloves can operate the bezel with ease.
Milsubs are also often associated with sword hands, though depending on the reference, they can technically come with swords or Mercedes hands.
I think people tend to associate the Milsub with sword hands because, these days, Mercedes hands are the standard. So, overall, the ratio to commercial Subs with sword hands vs Mercedes hands is likely much lower than the ratio in Milsubs.
But, of course, the Milsubs are rare in general.
How the Milsub Spec Model Brought Upgrades to the Entire Submariner Family
The spec models Rolex initially provided have the A/6538 reference.
Seeing the benefit of the new bezel, Rolex soon upgraded all of their standard Subs with this design. The Sub line, in general, is a testament to how good partnerships result in objectively good products.
No one can test the abilities of a piece of gear like the military. Between this and its pop culture status, the Sub seemed tailor-made for iconicness.
The next Milsub reference would be the 5512, though there were also non-Milsub 5512s available without the soldered bars. 5512s were COSC-certified (as all modern Rolex watches are) and had guards on the smaller crown.
Meanwhile, reference 5513 Milsubs weren’t COSC-certified.
The Rolex Milsub 5517 was special in that it was only made with sword hands, not Mercedes hands. Milsubs, in general, could have either a 15-minute or a 60-minute bezel insert. However, the 5517 was only made with the complete 60-minute bezel insert.
More on the journey from spec models to the 55s later. This happens in the 1970s.
The T Dial
Another quality that most Milsubs have is the letter T denoted on the dial. It’s a capital T, circled, placed right above the water resistance and right below where the hands are affixed on the dial.
What happened here was that radium, which was used for lume, proved to be quite dangerous. Of course, today, we know that it’s highly radioactive.
So, the Ministry of Defense recalled the spec models and the 5512s. Instead of simply getting rid of them, they sent them to a subcontractor who replaced the radium with tritium.
The T on the dial denotes that the watch has been safely upgraded. And today, it’s a telltale sign of a MilSub.
The Milsub in the ‘70s
Those who know military history, or at least know James Bond, may know that the Omega Seamaster has also had a long association with the Royal Navy.
The MOD is one of the many chess boards, along with NASA, that Omega and Rolex play against.
In the ‘70s, both the Special Air Service and the Special Boat Service chose to replace the Seamasters with Milsubs. So, from the early ‘70s well into 1979, Rolex manufactured about 1,200 military-level Submarines.
This was when the “Gladiator hands”, or large swords, and the full 60-minute bezel insert came along. (Also, they had engraved backs.). Any Milsub embossed with a W10 was made especially for the army, while those that feature a 0552 were made for the Navy.
And finally, before the 1980s came along, the prior-mentioned 5517 arrived, being the only reference not to have a commercially available counterpart. This is also a big reason why the sword hands are so strongly associated with Milsubs.
Why Is the Milsub So Coveted?
There are three reasons why the Rolex Military Submariner is in such high demand.
First of all, they were never commercially available, as in ever. There are a few beloved watch models out there that started this way but received a commercial release due to demand. Rolex never even did a limited market edition.
Second, the slightly different visuals are a collector’s dream. Anytime a watch can invoke its wearer to say, “It looks standard, but if you look closely…” is a dream scenario. Watch collectors love a conversation piece, after all.
And a lot of Rolex lovers tend to appreciate conservatism. They may want something unique, but not one that leaves the realm of the classics.
And, lastly, the sheer rarity of this watch makes it a grail. It’s a grail for Rolex lovers, Submariner fans, military watch lovers, and collectors just looking to check every single box. There’s likely not that much more than 1200 out there, and only hundreds have surfaced.
This makes sense, considering military gear is often subjected to a lot of stress.
FAQs
Here are the most common questions asked about the Rolex Milsub!
What Is a Rolex Milsub Worth?
A true Rolex Milsub will definitely set you back six digits. A 1975 Milsub went for $268,000 at Bonham’s auction house. On rare occasions, they’ll pop up in online secondary markets, and they’ll be at least a good $180,000 if you’re lucky.
How Rare Is a Rolex Milsub?
It’s reported that only around 1200 are out in the wild. However, even fewer have surfaced.
Conclusion: Can You Get a Milsub?
Anything is possible, but the Rolex Milsub is one of the rarest vintage watches on the market right now.
You could face several challenges in your attempt at acquisition. Many watches have been almost serviced to death (army life). There are a record number of fakes out there. Milsub sightings are as rare as ice circles or solar eclipses.
And this doesn’t include the fact that you’d be lucky to find this watch below $200,000.
At the time of this writing, I see zero Milsubs on eBay, zero at the major auction houses, and one on Chrono24 for $191,458. Did I mention that Rolex is facing price drops on the secondary market?
My advice to you if you really want one is, if you have the money, make a bid the moment you see one available on a legitimate marketplace.
Are you a fan of the Rolex Milsub? If so, how much would you pay for one? Let us know in the comments!
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