Decoding the Term “Neo-Vintage Watches”

Neo-vintage is a term thrown around often, but what does it mean? Let’s unpack what Neo-Vintage watches are and where the term came from.

Does your watch have an attractive “Fauxtina”? Do you own a “GADA” watch? What’s your idea of a “Grail” timepiece? And are you partial to a “Homage Watch” or two? 

All this watch terminology can be pretty confusing. If only someone could invent “A Little Pocket Book of Watch Terms”, an encyclopedia that explains everything. 

The truth is watch jargon is becoming the new language among collectors, and it changes all the time. Sometimes, it can even make us feel slightly out of the loop.  

What’s a “Unicorn Watch,” for example? And what does “NWA” even stand for? More importantly, how do we define a “neo-vintage” watch? I can help with the last one!

In this article, I’ll explain a neo-vintage watch and the term’s origin.  

Where Did the Term “Neo-Vintage” Come From?  

Neo-vintage is a relatively new term. We haven’t been using it all that long because the style it refers to is still a relatively new concept. It’s not all that clear where the term originated from. Someone said it, and it stuck, I guess. 

Its classification and relevance sometimes divide opinions. Some feel it’s no more than a “fad” or a passing phase. Others think the term has its rightful place in the watch-collecting society and the chronology of watchmaking.  

There is no unambiguous way to identify this type of watch. Nor is there a specific year of manufacture or an era that authenticates one.  

Believe it or not, there was once a time when enthusiasts could easily categorize a watch. 

On the one hand, you had a word to describe an old timepiece —  “vintage”. On the other hand, a new timepiece was simply what we call “Modern”. 

That was until someone came along and thought blurring the lines between the two sounded like a hoot.

In one way, calling watches “neo-vintage” is a little confusing. But when you know how to identify them, you’ll soon realize why they sit in their category. 

Neo-vintage has become a term used to describe timepieces that aren’t quite old enough to be “vintage.” At the same time, they’re not new enough to feature all the modern materials. Confusing, right?  

Not really. If you think back to the Quartz Crisis, many traditional watch brands were doing the same thing. They were all figuring out a purpose for existence again.  

Mechanical watches had all but disappeared, save for a few remaining manufacturers. They had to survive by succumbing to the demand for quartz and changing tack.

The eventual re-emergence of mechanical movements brought about a category that now enjoys a rather niche following.  Many of them are what we call “neo-vintage”.

From Vintage to Modern 

We know that neo-vintage watches refer to the period after the quartz crisis. However, to understand their popularity today, we must explore where one category ends and another starts.  

For example, you may own an old timepiece, say the Rolex GMT-Master “Pepsi” ref 16700. Its case may have a beautiful, aged patina that has developed over time. It may also have a faded bezel or discolored lume-coated features. 

All of these characteristics add to the value of a vintage watch and are considered highly collectible. Faded bezels, after all, attract a premium price.

And yes, a release date of 1988 (two years after I was born) is apparently vintage. I am officially “vintage,” and I’m not happy about that. 

You may also have a relatively new watch. Let’s take a modern version of the Rolex Submariner as an example. It features a Cerachrom bezel insert to resist the effects of color fading.

It also features a Triplock Triple waterproof system on the crown and a sapphire crystal front for optimum dial protection.

Only by comparing the two can you fully appreciate how horological technology has advanced over the years. Brands continually research and experiment with materials to make watches more durable and longer-lasting.

How Neo-Vintage Watches Came To Exist  

Advancements in watch materials are happening all the time. Panerai’s Ti-Ceramitech material, for example, has just debuted in the recent Luna Rossa Submersible watch.

It combines the lightweight qualities of titanium with the toughness and scratch resistance of ceramic. Even IWC has experimented with new materials, equipping its latest innovations with Ceralume and Armor gold.  

Then there are technologies like Ball’s micro gas tubes. When tritium interacts with these lume-coated tubes, it emits a constant glow.

Super-LumiNova superseded tritium and radium back in the early 1990s. But even the micro gas tubes are superior to this since they aren’t intermittent like Super-LumiNova.  

Manufacturers like Hublot and Omega are leading the way in watch materials. They’re pioneering alloys and products that enhance a timepiece’s longevity.

Examples of Hublot’s materials include King Gold and Magic Gold, while Omega has crafted materials like Canopus, Sedna, and Moonshine.  

A neo-vintage watch may feature a bit of both. For example, it may have a lacquered dial. A lacquered dial won’t obtain the faded patina that an old-painted dial will, but it may still look retro. 

Another example may be a Rolex watch with a modern sapphire crystal but a pre-ceramic bezel design. It’s not entirely in the Glidelock clasp era, but it’s not vintage, either. 

Neo-vintage watch collectors may be looking for an old-inspired lume. They might like the look of original aluminium-filled bezels but want a sapphire glass front.

They want the retro features that nod to a bygone era without having to look in unexpected places for them. In other words, they want an easily accessible watch that looks old but isn’t! 

What Is a Neo-Vintage Watch Exactly?  

A neo-vintage watch is neither old nor contemporary. Many manufacturers are honing into this unique style of watch. Others have been crafting them before they even knew what they were!

Think of these watches as “New Vintage”. They look old school, but they’re still a relatively new product. If you were to put an age limit on one, it would be between 12 and 35 years old. The youngest of its kind is the TUDOR Black Bay watch. 

A few years ago, we called these watches contemporary. But now they are stuck in an age bracket where they are neither young nor old. 

What makes so many watches in this category special is their advanced anatomy. They carry the aesthetic appeal of an older watch but feature better materials. 

5 Examples of Neo-Vintage Watches

Now we know what a neo-vintage watch is, let’s look at some cool examples.

1. IWC Pilot’s Chronograph Ref. IW3706

IWC made the reference IW3706 between 1994 and 2005. It packs a ton of charm and some robust qualities, too. Its rich black dial has hints of grey and white, including the straight baton hands and legible Arabic hour track. 

This watch also measures a compact 39mm diameter, reminiscent of an age when pilot’s watches for small wrists were common.

The Valjoux-modified caliber inside this watch promises easy serviceability, which is one advantage compared to newer IWC models. 

I also love the fact that IWC watches feature this curved sapphire glass front. It’s not for aesthetic purposes. 

Moreover, it reduces the risk of the glass popping when subjected to pressure. Still, it creates that vintage-esque edge that collectors really love. 

2. Rolex GMT Master Ref. 16710BLRO

I mentioned a little earlier about Rolex watches in the pre-ceramic stage but post-sapphire glass stage. The Rolex GMT Master reference 16710BLRO is an excellent example of such. 

The GMT-Master “Pepsi” watch is among the world’s most covetable designs. Both new and old versions of the iconic watch with a blue and red two-tone bezel are popular.

This GMT-Master was a time zone-tracking solution released in the 1950s for Pan American Airways. Its design combined a 24-hour track, 12-hour scale, and GMT hand. This reference wears thicker than the models that came later down the line. 

Bag yourself one of these watches from the pre-owned market, and you can enjoy this cool neo-vintage watch with any attire. The aluminum bezel is likely to display a beautiful aged patina. 

The glass front, however, is sapphire crystal, granting you a clear, scratch-proof view of the display day and night.  

3. Girard Perregaux Chronograph Lemania Ref. 47930

The Girard Perregaux Chronograph Lemania may not be your first thought when you hear the word “neo-vintage.” It’s definitely deserving of its title, however. This 38mm 18ct yellow gold model from the 1990s is a stunning watch.

The watch bears a movement based on the Lemania 1872 manual-wind chronograph movement. Omega made this caliber famous by implementing it into the legendary Speedmaster. 

It also features a two-tone chronograph dial with traditional black Roman numerals and rounded pushers. In addition to its many retro-infused features, a sapphire crystal front completes the design. 

4. The TUDOR Black Bay Ref. 79220R

With an Oyster case and burgundy bezel, the TUDOR Black Bay certainly sounds like neo-vintage territory to me. Many others agree. Although the youngest of its type, this collectible deserves its place on the wrist. 

The reference 79220R arrived before the ceramic bezel, the T-Fit bracelet, and the in-house movement. Regardless of that, it became a huge success. This is partly thanks to its design, inspired by the brand’s original Oyster Prince Submariner dive watch.

The TUDOR Black Bay has an aluminum bezel but sapphire crystal glass, perfectly blending the old with the new. It also features the desirable “Snowflake” hands that TUDOR launched in the 1960s. 

5. Audemars Piguet Quantieme Perpetuel Ref. 25657BA

Designs like this are responsible for the rise of neo-vintage watches. The Audemars Piguet Quantieme Perpetuel 25657BA. For its time, this was a particularly complex watch. Its impressive complication gave collectors an accurate calendar, catalyzing the brand’s reputation. 

The model features a mother-of-pearl dial with diamond hands inside the sub-counters. This feature alone is reminiscent of Audemars Piguet watches of the 1940s.

In addition to its unmistakable nods to yesteryear, the watch demonstrates the brand’s shift towards modern watchmaking. Using the sapphire crystal, for example, to preserve the dial promises additional robustness.

Then, there are features like a skeletonized rotor displayed through an exhibition caseback. The lacquered dial and “serif” font are other attractive features that give this watch a unique edge. 

Wrapping Up 

Decoding watch jargon is a job in itself. The terminology becomes more familiar as you become more experienced as a collector. However, navigating the horological language is all the more difficult because of a continual stream of new words.   

Neo-vintage watches point to a period of renaissance in horology. It was a period after the quartz crisis before cutting-edge technology like ceramic bezels and sapphire glass emerged. That said, some can feature both.

This category is growing in popularity year by year. These watches are a safe bet for those who don’t want to buy vintage watches from a store.   

Before long, a generation of brands will be creeping up in this category. Their “modern” watches will soon become part of the “in-between” camp. It’s interesting to imagine how we will measure a neo-vintage watch in another 30 years.

Will manufacturers replace the T-Fit clasps and ceramic bezels with something better? Only time will tell.

Do you own a neo-vintage watch? Share your favorite timepieces with us, and leave your comments below!