Homage Watch: Just a Nicer Term for Replica?

Should you buy homage watches? Is it “right” to do? Here’s everything you need to know and some notable examples!

The Rolex Submariner is highly decorated. It’s the original Bond watch. It’s the most recognizable timepiece in the world. Do you know what else it is? It’s the watch that launched a thousand homages.

In fact, many of its homages went on to become iconic watches in their own right.

Sure, you might be thinking, but the Monkees will never be the Beatles. That’s fair. Still, decades later, how much does that matter when it comes to fans who enjoy their music

Plus, it’s not as if they ever tried to pass songs penned by Paul McCartney and John Lennon as their own.

That’s what brings so much gray area to the world of homage watches. Copyright infringement aside, there isn’t some universal watch counsel that decides when a design crosses the line. 

This begs several questions. Can it cross the line? How does an homage differ from a black market dupe? Should you wear one? And what will people think if you do?

I have answers to these questions.

What Is an Homage Watch?

In my exploration of replica watches, I differentiate between homages and knock-offs by mentioning that an homage doesn’t try to be something it’s not — for the most part. An homage pays tribute to a different model, and there are several reasons and ways to do this.

Let’s start with the most obvious and where the gray area lies between replicas and illegal knock-offs. One reason to make an homage is to build something similar to a more expensive model. A homage is often crafted from less expensive or non-proprietary materials.

Therefore, you’d get, theoretically, a similar look and experience as you would from the original design. And you’d get it at a fraction of the price.

There’s a wide range of ways to do this.

Cover Band vs. Inspired By

Going back to the music comparison, sometimes the model is like a cover band. They mean to be just like the original, short of trying to pass as the original. 

A lot of Chinese watchmakers, like Pagani, will fully rebuild an Explorer II. But instead of the Rolex logo, it’ll have their logo. Or no logo. Or one of the many other logos connected to a mushroom brand.

Other times, the model is like a band that’s its act but clearly inspired by another act. For example, Harry Styles and David Bowie. Or, as some would argue, the SKX007 to the Submariner. Or the Orient Ray II to the Submariner.

These days, the SKX007 has made such a name for itself, even though it has its homages.

This brings up another gray area. It can be hard to tell if a model is an homage unless the brand admits to it. Where does one draw the line between saying this classic diver is clearly a Submariner homage and saying that the Submariner pioneered dive watch basics?

I mean, let’s be real. Most of the time, it isn’t hard for those in the know to tell. Let’s just say that without some sort of black-and-white testimony, a case wouldn’t hold up in the hypothetical universal watch counsel. (The Simpsons creator Matt Groening can’t sue Seth McFarlane over Family Guy, after all.)

Homage vs. Alternative

Here’s another potential gray area regarding whether a watch is a true homage or just another model within the category. It might be an alternative.

Usually, an alternative will be in the same price bracket. Or, at least, be universally considered a competitor. The Omega Seamaster and the Rolex Submariner are examples.

The Bulova Lunar Pilot isn’t in the same price category as the Omega Speedmaster. However, they both have a historical connection to space travel. Moreover, Captain David Scott famously used his Omega during the Apollo 15 mission when his Omega broke. This adds a lore component to its alternative status.

And before you ask, yes. It’s possible that just really good marketing and a fun story can elevate a watch to become a legend’s competitor.

Then there’s the fact that Swatch teamed up with Omega to build the Moonswatch, a more affordable Swatchified version of the Speedmaster. It’s not only an admitted homage in that sense but one built within the same family as Omega.

Homages to the Vintage World

Homages are more than just cheaper renditions of expensive models.

Sometimes, they’re tapping into a particular moment in watch history. Perhaps they’re making the exact model of a military watch from a particular war. 

Or perhaps a watchmaker found a defunct dress watch model from the ‘40s in his attic. Now, he wants to revive it by creating a line of identical models built to modern specs.

Big brands dig into their archives and do this often. However, since it’s the same brand re-releasing the model they originated, that would more accurately be called a reissue.

And yes, one can argue that’s just semantics. You’re welcome to consider a reissue an homage. And your friend is welcome to disagree. Remember that the universal watch counsel is fully hypothetical.

Are Homages Legal?

Homages, including non-branded replicas, are perfectly legal. Again, since there are no universally agreed upon industry terms, you can call a legal homage a knock-off.

I prefer to save the derogatory terms for actual illegal copies, though. That is black market knock-offs that try to pass as the real thing. They’d use the brand’s logo even if they weren’t manufactured by the brand. 

Unfortunately, these illegal counterfeits are often made in the factory across the street from the factory that makes the non-branded legal homages.

This is why some argue that even the legal homages should be considered knock-offs. I understand that, but since they aren’t using an illegitimate logo, they aren’t lying to you.

There are also half-fakes, but I go into those in my exploration of replica watches. 

Notable Watch Homages

Here is a selection of homage watches to further illustrate one in each category.

Steinhart Ocean One Ceramic

There are a few reasons why I want to highlight this Steinhart as a Submariner homage over a Seiko or Orient. First of all, it’s a cut-and-dry homage, and that’s what Steinhart is known for. 

Second, it has good specs, with its Swiss movement and 300 meters of water resistance.

Third, Steinhart is a step or two above many hyper-affordable Chinese homage makers, giving it legitimacy. 

Even if you’re of the mindset that no homage is legit, you can admit there’s a spectrum, and this sits higher on it than many homage makers.

Tiger Concepts Vintage

Regardless of how you feel about Tiger Concepts, it’s pretty cool they offer solid automatics at the price points they do. Their Vintage watch is another kind of homage that combines design cues from different models.

This has a mix of Rolex and Tudor design cues, the two being brother brands, including the Tudor snowflake hands. So sometimes, an homage can give you something that doesn’t exist in the real world. It’s like fan fiction but for watches.

Vaer C3 Korean Field

Vaer has been known to take inspiration from historical field watch models. They’ve even served up timepieces that remind me of the original Rolex Explorers.

The C3 is a legit homage to the WWII A12 Dirty Dozen Watch. Beyond that, it’s an homage to the good, honest craft of vintage military watches.

This affordable quartz solar version has an engraving of the Korean Peninsula on the back in honor of men who served.

Its unique approach to homaging is why I mention it here. It’s a historical reference and solid build is why I included it in my round-up of military watches.

Omega x Swatch Moonswatch

And finally, we’ve got the prior-mentioned Moonswatch. Is this an homage? Yes. But in the same way, the others on this list are? That’s yet to be determined. It’s a new concept.

It takes the Omega Speedmaster’s design template and rebuilds it with more affordable materials. However, these materials are still Swatch-specific, including the bioceramic. Biocermaic is soft, strong, and has a unique aesthetic between metal and resin.

Between this and the Swatch Fifty Fathoms, the Swatch Group is leading the charge with in-family homages. Again, if you can call them that, only time will tell what becomes of this category of affordable remixes.

FAQs

Here are some quick answers to common questions about homage watches!

Are Homage Watches Legal?

In general, as long as the homage isn’t a counterfeit replica trying to pass as the real deal, it’s legal. It shouldn’t be using brand logos, and it should be sold through legitimate markets.

What Is the Difference Between a Clone and an Homage Watch?

A clone is an exact copy of an existing model. Again, this is perfectly legal as long as it isn’t illegitimately using proprietary designs and logos. An homage is a tribute to an existing model. Some may argue that a legal replica is a type of homage.

Are Homage Watches Ethical?

Legitimately designed and sold homages are legal. By that standard, they’re ethical. Beyond that, it’s multi-layered. Some argue that copying a design, even if legally, isn’t ethical. Others argue that democratizing expensive designs is ethical.

To that others argue there may be labor and environmental costs not being accounted for.

Conclusion: Should You Get a Homage Watch?

There are several reasons to get an homage watch. Perhaps you like a more expensive model but refuse to pay the price. That’s the most common reason.

Maybe you need a placeholder until you can afford your grail.

If you’re looking for an homage that luxury watch snobs won’t look down upon, I highly recommend going for a model that departs from its source material.

One from workhorse brands like Citizen and Seiko. Even if the model you go for is an homage, they’ve overall proven themselves as respectable, or at least legitimate, watchmakers.

What are your thoughts on homages? Do you own any yourself? We’d love to know! And do subscribe to our newsletter at The Slender Wrist for top-notch watch content.