If you’re one to bask in the nostalgia of a utility watch, check out the Dirty Dozen watches story.
From marine chronometers to watches with unbreakable glass, Britain has always been at the forefront of military watch innovations. However, accuracy and reliability never felt more important when the country declared war on Germany during WWI. The Dirty Dozen watches represented something altogether different. They were the “perfect soldier’s watches,” adhering to a set of specifications that made them cutting-edge for their time. Nowadays, they are rare, covetable timepieces that niche enthusiasts collect.
What makes the Dirty Dozen so interesting from a collector’s point of view is its value when sold as an entire lot. These watches are brimming with nostalgia and tell an interesting story about the evolution of the military watch. So, if you’ve always wondered about these special military watches, now is your time to read about why they’re so legendary. Here’s a guide to these unique vintage field watches – all 12 of them.
Table of Contents
Overview of the ‘Dirty Dozen’
Here’s a question for you. How does a WWI serviceman load his rifle while simultaneously measuring the distance between himself and incoming artillery fire? The answer is with the help of a wristwatch, of course. But wristwatches weren’t a thing back then, you say? Well, actually, they were.
The wrist-worn watch was a lightbulb moment during this very era. The concept proved revolutionary for military personnel back in the early 1900s. In fact, the advent of the wristwatch shaped the future of watchmaking. Period. And no, I’m not referring to the hair-entwined golden threaded bracelet type that Breguet presented to the Queen of Naples in 1810. Watchmaking has evolved a ton since then. I’m talking about the re-engineered pocket watch with the soldered wire lugs that connected the watch case to a strap. The concept was revolutionary. It would free up both hands, allowing a soldier to load a rifle and gauge distances simultaneously during combat.
The first signs of wrist-worn watches began to emerge during the early 1900s. All of a sudden, they weren’t just expensive pieces of jewelry for women. They were purpose-built, and what’s more, they were designed for men. But as practical as the idea sounded, the military tool watch needed much more refining. Watchmakers spent the next three decades advancing their technologies and know-how, enabling them to produce military watches with complete purpose.
During the last two years of the Second World War, watchmakers were much closer to achieving the ideals required of a watch for combat. Knowing exactly what it would take, the Ministry of Defence drew up a set of requirements and approached 12 brands. Those 12 brands produced what is famously known as the Dirty Dozen. Intrigued? Read on.
Historical Background of the Dirty Dozen Watch Collection
The story of the ‘Dirty Dozen’ watches is one of the most interesting in watchmaking history. It’s also an odd name, right? But that name didn’t just come from anywhere. It was the name given to a movie about 12 fictional soldiers who fought during the Second World War. Very aptly, the 12 wristwatches making up the ‘Dirty Dozen’ series also served in the war. They became lasting symbols of endurance and reflect Britain’s wartime efforts. Today, they are pieces of wartime memorabilia.
While Britain was still in the throes of WWII, the MoD was searching for a reliable military timekeeping tool. One that would surpass the ATP watches (Army Trade Watches), which were first issued in 1939 and worn on the battlefields. Perhaps the idea was to maximize production, but rather than approach one watchmaker for the task, it approached twelve. The department challenged these Swiss watchmakers to create a timepiece according to a list of special requirements. Historical accounts suggest Commander Alan Brooke devised this list of requirements, including chronometer certification, good water resistance, and dial luminosity. Eventually, the British Ministry of Defence would commission these elite field watches for use on the wrists of its soldiers.
Commission by the British Ministry of Defence
Because of their place in horological history and their military heritage, Dirty Dozen enthusiasts consider these twelve watches highly collectible. They are rare and have become important to connoisseurs all over the world. As we already know, pocket watches weren’t practical enough on the frontline during the First World War, so soldiers began strapping their watches to their wrists. This opened the door to change.
Wrist-worn watches soon became an essential part of soldiers’ kit, but they still weren’t essentially geared for life in the trenches. However, the Dirty Dozen watches developed during 1944-1945 marked a point where military units raised the bar in standardizing better watches for purpose. The watchmakers developing them were setting new benchmarks, too. This transitional period from wristwatch to toolwatch went down in history.
But how did these watches come to be during such a critical period of wartime history? Well, during the Second World War, British watchmaking was deteriorating drastically. Once a watchmaking haven, the country had failed to adapt to mass production. (Picture it a little like the decline of the Swiss watch industry during the 1970s.) Britain couldn’t keep up with demand. Furthermore, it had already lost many watchmakers to the armaments industry. While Britain turned to making aviation and naval instruments, Switzerland remained neutral and still thrived.
The Swiss continued to focus its efforts on watchmaking, ramping up its output. As a result, Switzerland was able to continue producing watches for civilians. All the while, the MoD was looking for something entirely different – a set of stringent specifications built into a reliable tool for army personnel. These unique requirements are needed to assist soldiers in facing the rigors of military life, but not any old watchmaker could meet these needs. Just 12 watchmakers passed these specific tests. Those that did were known as W.W.W watches. The abbreviation stands for Watch, Wrist, and Waterproof, differentiating them from other military equipment at the time.
The twelve companies that fulfilled the brief accordingly were Jaeger-LeCoultre, Eterna, IWC, Omega, Longines, Lemania, Record, Vertex, Buren, Cyma, Grana, and Timor. However, there’s a hidden chapter to this story. Records show that the MoD actually sent orders to thirteen manufacturers! Even so, what did these watches have that others didn’t? To answer that, we need to dig deeper into the specifications and design requirements of these W.W.W watches.
Specifications and Design Requirements
Dirty Dozen watches all share some common traits. Some of these can be used to identify them on the market. But more than anything else, these specifications made them capable of enduring life on the frontline.
Each model of the Dirty Dozen pack featured a black dial with large visible Arabic numerals for legibility. The MoD wanted these dials to feature a small second sub-dial at 6 o’clock. Although a simple complication, it aimed to donate more space to the central timekeeping hands. These features, along with legible hands, had to be lume-treated too. Brands used the old radium-based lume material during this time – another rare and intriguing factor for Dirty Dozen collectors.
These trench watches also had to feature a 15-jewel hand-wound movement chronometer rated in various conditions. The case had to be rugged enough to diminish the impact of shock and water resistance with the use of a crown. Lastly, the watches had to feature a shatterproof Perspex crystal-like plexiglass. You’ll also notice these were field watches for small wrists. Most measured between 36 and 37mm. As part of the brief, the MoD also stipulated that although designed for “General Service,” not everyone would get one. Most of these watches went to engineers, personnel of the Communication Corps, and artillery members.
Dirty Dozen Watch Brands
Before we look at the legacy of these 12 special models, let’s briefly explore the Dirty Dozen watch brands.
Cyma
It’s no wonder the MoD chose Cyma to create one of these special twelve watches. The brand has a sound reputation for creating watches resistant to temperature extremes, magnetism, and electricity. The Cyma Dirty Dozen watch, particularly, is a favorite amongst collectors because of its compact 37mm size. The manufacturer produced a good run of around 20,000, making them easier to acquire on the pre-owned market.
Grana
Grana became Certina in the 1940s, making those watches with the Grana name on their dials a point of interest for collectors. This brand created the rarest and most covetable of all Dirty Dozen watches. Many believe the brand only manufactured 1-5,000 of these watches. Because of its rarity, none of the Dozen watches are as desirable as the Grana.
Jaeger-LeCoultre
If you know anything about watches, you’ll know the name Jaeger-LeCoultre. Thanks to its vast catalog of in-house movements, the brand has earned its reputation as the watchmaker of all watchmakers. This brand designed the famous Reverso watch, featuring a dial that flips over on itself. The manufacturer’s Dirty Dozen watch measured a very modest 35mm size. It featured an unusual chrome bezel atop its steel case and cathedral hands powered by the inaugural Calibre 479.
Buren
Buren was a pioneering Swiss-based watch and pocket watch maker that eventually merged with the Hamilton name. Today, Hamilton has a superb reputation for creating some of the world’s most recognizable field watches. Along with Breitling and Heuer, it was responsible for developing the Chrono-Matic calibre at the end of the 1960s. The Buren Dirty Dozen watch featured a chrome-finished case measuring just under 37mm. It also featured an in-house movement and sword-shaped hands.
Eterna
Eterna was a Grenchen-based company that became famous for producing ETA movements. Its subsidiary brand is now part of Swatch Group. It also made the Eterna-Matic movement in the 1940s, equipped with a friction-reducing ball and an alarm. Eterna’s Dirty Dozen watch is one of the rarest, with only 5000 pieces ever made.
Lemania
Lemania merged with Tissot and Omega in the 1930s but was a renowned movement maker before then. The brand even produced a complicated caliber that went to the moon and back inside the Speedmaster. Its WWW watch, built to British Army specs, featured a steel and chrome case measuring 36.5mm. Lemania equipped these 8,000 pieces with a manual wound movement.
IWC
One of the most famous watchmakers in the world, IWC, created a Dirty Dozen watch. However, IWC made ornate pocket watches before specializing in pilot and Flieger watches. The Spitfire, in particular, is based on its Mark II reference for the British RAF pilots. More specifically, it draws direct inspiration from the Mark X – IWC’s Dirty Dozen contribution. Behind its snap-on caseback was the Calibre 83, which IWC made in-house. As one of the most collectible of the entire lot, IWC made just 5000 of these watches.
Omega
Omega is most famous for contributing to space exploration and its iconic Speedmaster watch. But the brand also became the first to use the Co-Axial escapement. Aside from being the official timekeeper to the Olympics, Omega also produced the James Bond watch. Its Dirty Dozen watch was a 36mm model that equipped 25,000 wrists with the Calibre 30T2 back in 1945.
Longines
Another Olympics official timekeeper, Longines, specialized in early aviation tools. Unlike other Dirty Dozen watches, Longines’ contribution had a nickname. The Greenlander was a 38mm model backed by the brand’s heritage and expertise in military-spec timepieces. The 38mm model was one of the largest of the dozen, featuring a stylish cathedral handset enhanced by lume.
Record
Record made the popular “Sector” pocket watch and a long line of high-end chronographs. Its innovative complications include the Datofix with calendar and moon phase features. Longines eventually absorbed Record, but before it was, it made the Dirty Dozen. The watch featured a chrome-plated steel case measuring 36.5mm and a screw-down caseback concealing a manually wound movement.
Timor
Timor put itself on the map in the 1930s by creating watches with braille numerals for partially sighted people. It was also the first to develop a watch for the British Army. The brand still produces watches with a vintage flair today. Some take inspiration from the 13,000 pieces made for the Dirty Dozen. Each one was a 36.5mm chrome-plated model with luminous pencil-shaped hands. A modern version of this watch is still available and equipped with a reliable Sellita movement.
Vertex
Vertex has an interesting story since it’s the only British brand of the 12. The founder’s son-in-law, a captain of the British Army, was likely able to exercise some influence in including this brand. Vertex contributed 1,500 pieces in 1945. Interestingly, Vertex even used some of its key features to create its later M100 watch, inspired by the Dirty Dozen watch.
Design and Features of Vintage Field Watches
There’s no denying that Dirty Dozen watches established a new standard for military watches in general. They promoted accuracy, readability, and durability during a crucial time in military history. After establishing these standards, many brands followed suit. Manufacturers produced field watches with characteristics similar to the W.W.W watches.
Typically speaking, the design and features of vintage field watches are all very similar. They feature a plain, straightforward dial, most of which are black with contrasting luminous-coated appliques. Being vintage, however, some have aged, or the lume discolored, further enhancing their charm and appeal amongst collectors. Their rugged, functional designs stem from their military purpose, but now they make for a striking statement piece in the modern world, too. The numerals are often in Arabic style, and the hands are a familiar sword shape. Some vintage military watches from this period even feature inner 24-hour tracks, useful for travel purposes. As one of the most famous and popular examples of the field watch, many vintage models echo the Dirty Dozen style watch.
The Legacy of the Dirty Dozen Field Watch
Dirty Dozen watches are now collectibles. They’re vintage field watches that harken back to a pivotal point in watchmaking history. The fact that brands only manufactured these watches briefly makes them highly desirable today and very rare. Let’s look at how these distinctive-looking watches impacted military watch design throughout this era, making them valuable collector pieces.
Impact on Military Watch Design
The history behind the Dirty Dozen watches adds to the allure of these special wristwatches. Collectors love a watch with a story and a purpose. These tool watches can offer both. Since so many have been modified on the second-hand market today, discovering original models is all the more exciting. These WWII watches are significant because they’re a draw for history buffs as much as watch collectors. Of course, this unique blend of military-spec design and historical engineering still influences the field watches category today.
The pieces that attract collectors and demand high bids at auction fetch sky-high prices. This further enhances the desirability of the WWII watch aesthetic. Thus, it’s hard to imagine a day when Dirty Dozen watches won’t attract the same attention.
Collectibility and Value
It’s believed that as few as 20 people in the world own all twelve Dirty Dozen watches. Reaching this pinnacle is no easy feat and one that deserves commendation. All are uncommon, but understandably, those produced in smaller quantities are even rarer. This makes them all the more desirable, further ramping up their collectability.
The most valuable and desirable of all twelve military watches is the Grana. It’s believed that less than 1000 of these timepieces exist worldwide. Because of this rarity, models at auction sell for seven times more than some of the other models of the series.
Even if the Dirty Dozen watches weren’t so rare, other considerations make collecting all 12 a challenge. Collecting all twelve watches can be difficult since the condition of these watches and their level of wear and tear can differ vastly. Finding an unmodified and complete Grana watch is nearly impossible today. But the story of one found at a flea market made the news. The family of a former British Army officer donated the watch. Unbeknownst to him, it was worth a lot of money. It later sold for a relatively low price to a discerning collector before selling for tens of thousands at auction.
Most Dirty Dozen watches sell today for between $2 and $30,000. Grana watches still command the highest prices, selling for around $50k. Other models, like the IWC and Jaeger-LeCoultre Dirty Dozen watches, are highly collectible, too. A combination of brand provenance and historical significance plays into the appeal of these watches. Of course, the condition of the watch and an unaltered dial and movement have even more appeal amongst collectors.
How To Identify the Best Dirty Dozen Watch for Collectors
The Dirty Dozen watches were some of the most complex and advanced of their time. To prove their reliability, they needed to constantly uphold accuracy and guarantee performance. Wear and tear over time has caused some of these watches to deteriorate, including the lubricants of the oils within the movements. Maintaining and restoring them has become key in the collecting process. However, as fewer and fewer technicians can repair these movements today, original models are becoming difficult to obtain.
One crucial question remains if you’re serious about collecting some of these rare timepieces. “How to identify the best Dirty Dozen watches for collectors. Understandably, establishing a relationship with the dealer is crucial because they can provide the transparency you need before you buy. Let’s take a deeper look.
The Dirty Dozen Hallmarks
When looking to acquire a Dirty Dozen watch, approach it in the same way as you would any collectible. Do your research on the seller and ask as many questions as you need to. You should look at any reviews or previous experiences customers have had buying watches from this seller. Also, check pieces online. Get a rough estimate of what you should pay for this model to ensure they’re not taking you for a ride. Once you know you’re dealing with a genuine collector that you can trust, you can look for the Dirty Dozen hallmarks.
As I mentioned earlier, these vintage field watches differed from the cream or white dial ATP watches circulating during this time. (Black versions were available later to the Germans.) But the Dirty Dozen models all featured the WWW stamp on their casebacks. Brands also manufactured them with the Broad Arrow emblem adorned upon the dial, caseback, and inner case. Meanwhile, the caseback reveals a five-digit serial number with a letter that differentiates each piece from the next.
Aside from that, look for all the key elements of the WWW watch. These include features like radium lume-applied hands and hour makers on a black dial, the railroad minute track, and chronometer certification. These watches were also produced with a shatter-proof plexiglass front, a hand-wound movement, and an easy-grip crown.
Dirty Dozen Watches Live on in Modern Interpretations Today
And here’s the million-dollar question; “What is the best Dirty Dozen watch?” The truth is, there is no single best Dirty Dozen watch. While those with dials bearing the bigger names like Omega, Longines, and IWC are most covetable, it all boils down to personal preference. These brands have a unique story and a history surrounding their iconic military WWW watch design. Not all of these manufacturers are still making watches today, either. Those that are, however, pay homage to their Dirty Dozen design through new creations.
The original Dirty Dozen style lives on in modern field watches today. So, even though acquiring the complete lot may seem impossible, modern Dirty Dozen watches are available to enjoy, too. Take, for example, the Bremont with its Broadsword Recon limited edition watch. It carries several distinctive characteristics influenced by the design language of these 1940s war watches. As a British watchmaker, Bremont honors Her Majesty’s Armed Forces through its partnership with the MoD. As such, it remains the sole luxury watchmaker allowed to use the symbols of its Heraldic Badges (all three services) on its watches.
Conclusion: The Enduring Appeal of Dirty Dozen Watches
For some, the appeal of the Dirty Dozen watches is their connection to yesteryear and how they serve as an important hallmark of our history. For others, it’s the thrill of finding a rare and desirable timepiece. The designs are honest, straightforward, and functional, making them great vintage options to bring into the modern world and enjoy. The initial thought of obtaining 12 watches, many from unknown brands, sounds relatively simple. These models are far from easy to acquire, but that, too, is part of the fun.
Dirty Dozen watches will always be niche and, as time passes, more challenging to obtain. If you happen to be one of those who own several, or even one – get in touch. We’d love to see which models you own and which ones you’re looking for next. Drop us a comment below, and while you’re at it, sign up for our newsletter at The Slender Wrist today.
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