Cartier is a brand with a rich history. Its designs have played an integral role in the historical tapestry of fashion. If Cartier watch history is a topic that intrigues you, read this article. It earmarks some of the major milestones of the brand’s success.
You can’t have a conversation about Cartier without speaking of its boundary-breaking horological designs. The company is well-deserving of its emblematic status in the world of fashion design and its timepieces prized by royalty.
The truth is that Cartier is one of the most revered names in the entire history of watchmaking. Its timepieces are symbols of enduring style and elegance.
From the most classic of instruments to the more elaborate timepieces set with diamonds, all Cartier watches are unique. Let’s step back in time to the year of 1847. Here goes the story of Cartier.
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Cartier Watch History Explained – The Early Years
Chapter one of Cartier’s story begins with the visionary founder, Louis-Francois Cartier, when he acquired a workshop in Paris.
It might not come as much of a surprise to learn that Cartier didn’t just focus on watches alone. The brand also created some very exquisite jewelry pieces.
By merging the finesse and meticulousness of a piece of fine jewelry with functionality, some of Cartier’s first timepieces emerged.
The Expansion of Cartier’s Catalogue
Cartier forged a sound reputation for itself from the beginning, launching itself into high society in 1856. The year marked the point at which the cousin of Emperor Napoleon III, Princess Mathilde, chose a piece of Cartier jewelry for herself.
By 1898, the founder’s grandson, Louis, had joined the business. He aimed to expand Cartier’s reach internationally. Part of this plan involved moving the company to a more focal point in the city. Here, he developed the famous mystery clock design with a transparent dial.
By 1902, Cartier had opened another branch, this time in London. The brand received royal recognition two years later with a royal certificate by the court of King Edward VII of England.
Pretty soon, every watch made by Cartier stood for expert craftsmanship. Boutiques opened in several cosmopolitan cities, catering to a global clientele.
It was Cartier’s early years that laid the solid foundations of the brand’s legacy in artistry and horology. Its designs were able to resonate with a global audience. Its elegant and sophisticated timepieces embraced cultural nuances around the world.
Some collaborations with artisans further propelled the company. From a symbol of French artistry to a global emblem of style, Cartier’s enduring designs have truly transcended geological boundaries.
A Timeline of Cartier’s Iconic Designs
It was the release of iconic designs like the Tank and Santos watch that really put Cartier on the map.
The first watch, the Santos, released in 1904 was a design for a Brazilian aviator, Alberto Santos-Dumont. He required a wrist-worn watch that was both legible and easy to handle during his time in the cockpit.
The Santos still carries its distinctive square-shaped case and robust bracelet design today.
Just three years later, in 1907, Cartier secured a contract with Edmond Jaeger, who agreed to supply the brand with its movements.
What came next was another iconic watch — the Tank.
Inspired by the Renault armored tanks used in the First World War, the Tank’s boxy design was an instant hit. Its profile emulates tank tire treads thanks to its extended lugs running up the sides of the case.
Over the years, there have been many iterations of the Tank. The first design was the Cintree, released in 1921. Following that, the Tank Must in 1977 with rounded brancards.
Then came the Americaine in 1989 with elongated lugs and wider brancards. Finally, Cartier released the Tank Francaise in 1996 with an elegant chain-link bracelet. The Anglaise followed in 2012. The latter has a curvilinear case and an enclosed crown within the bezel.
Each of the different variations of the Cartier Tank put a unique spin on the design. Many represent some of the world’s most coveted wristwatches ever made.
The Ronde de Cartier has a large circular case and was first launched in the 1930s. Its inward-bending lugs are a distinctive feature of the range, as are its traditional Roman numeral hour markers.
The Ronde de Cartier showcases a 24-hour track and an elegant, sophisticated style. It is still an obvious choice as a classic dress watch today, thanks to its easy-reading display.
Other important Cartier Watch Designs
During the 1980s, Cartier released the Pasha de Cartier watch. Its round case and oversized Arabic numeral hour markers became a cult hit. One of the most recognizable features of the Pasha de Cartier is its chain connecting the crown cap to the case.
The design of the watch took inspiration from an earlier 1930s Cartier watch. Made for the Pasha of Marrakesh, this original design, with its robust, water-resistant case, was both sporty and elegant.
The Cartier Panthere watch collection arrived in 1983. It, too, deserves its place in the brand’s catalog, particularly for its instantly recognizable square-case shape.
That said, the Panthere theme has been a part of the company since 1914, following an onyx and diamond bracelet.
Its rounded corners and elongated lugs resemble brickwork, many of which boast diamond decoration.
The Ballon Bleu de Cartier is one of the watchmaker’s youngest collections. It arrived in 2007 with an entirely new bubble-shaped case reminiscent of a hot air balloon.
Its circular case with slender lugs and a crown-protecting bridge are all hallmarks of the popular model.
By admiring the watch from the side, its bezel and glass connect seamlessly, creating an unbroken curve. The Ballon Blanc de Cartier is a more opulent version of the watch.
Its precious gemstone decoration and diamond-set crown are just some features that make for a more refined design.
The Cartier Culture
Cartier’s role in popular culture cannot be ignored. Peaky Blinders actor Conrad Khan has been spotted with the Tank Must on his wrist at a series’ premier back in 2022.
Watch enthusiasts also spotted Mick Jagger, an icon of sixties rock, sporting the classic-looking Tank Francaise.
Of course, much earlier in history was Jacqueline Kennedy. The Tank watch she wore was a symbol of grace and sophistication back in 1963.
Tightly woven into the fabric of popular culture, Cartier watches have permeated television, film, and music realms. Loved by politicians, rockstars, and even Hollywood stars like Jeff Goldblum, Cartier watches continue to reinforce the image of the brand.
Cartier’s Sustainable Practices
As with so many revered watchmakers today, Cartier’s mission also encompasses sustainability and social responsibility. It has shown great commitment to sourcing ethical materials for its watches.
Its practices also implement these values. Even by investing in renewable energy, Cartier’s ethical approach to craftsmanship plays a big part in its story.
So, Cartier’s alignment with influencing the watch industry also impacts change on the planet!
In a recent bid to build climate resilience, preserve resources, and foster inclusiveness, Cartier joined forces with Kering. In doing so, the collaboration aims to strengthen the actions of the watchmaking industry as a whole.
With the help of the Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC), the brand has helped launch the Watch & Jewellery Initiative 2030.
Cartier’s Influence on Fashion
It’s no wonder that Cartier has made such an impact on watchmaking and the fashion industry alike. The brand spans over a century and, within this time, has created some truly iconic timepieces.
Beyond watchmaking, the brand has shown its ability to evolve with cultural shifts. Its understanding of aesthetics and engineering is peerless.
Coveted by royalties and celebrities alike, few influential names in showbiz have not come into contact with a Cartier watch. Its legacy continues to inspire other leading brands, setting benchmarks with each new release.
From Early Days To Present
From the very first Santos watch to present-day Tank watches, Cartier’s story is a fascinating tapestry of innovation, quality, and elegance, all interwoven.
If you’ve enjoyed reading about Cartier’s background and its unwavering commitment to excellence, it’s not too late to invest. With so many designs to choose from, you may find this article helpful in beginning your search.
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I collect and restore 19th century pocket watches and sell them at local Antique Malls. I also work on modern watches as well. My customer brought in a “Must de Cartier” 2415 wrist watch”101369PL.” Information of the case back is “Agrent 925 / Plaque Org” (French) and I understand this means the case is .925 sterling silver which is gold plated. Any number of advertisements for this watch state “18K gold plated” but there is NO caratage hallmark seen anywhere on the exterior or interior of the case. THREE cartouches are seen below the “101369PL” in a row – under my computer microscope I see what appears to be a profile with a square containing a “C” on the left; the next center cartouche has a stylized “C” inside an oval and the right cartouche is a square containing “925.” I called a Cartier Dealership in Florida and they couldn’t answer my question. How does anyone CONFIRM this watch case is actually 18K gold plated absent an invasive gold test when there’s no hallmark on the case to prove it?? Sorry, but “because I said so” is not an answer I can give my customer. Thanks for your assistance. John (Sierra Vista, Arizona).