Building a watch collection with every complication is no mean feat. Here are some of my recommendations to help you begin.
We watch enthusiasts are a quirky bunch, even if I do say so myself. What works for one collector simply won’t work for all. A glance through your watch-related news feed on Instagram will show you that.
Whether you’re a casual toe dipper or laser-focused on one brand only, you’re sure to enjoy this read.
Why Do You Need a Watch Collection With Every Complication?
Quite simply, you don’t! But they can help with many day-to-day tasks. Today, a dizzying array of complication watches are available on the market. It’s all about finding what works for you.
A complication watch is any timepiece that goes beyond just solely telling the time. Even a date window classifies as one.
It may be that you require a watch to measure laps on a racetrack or time how long it takes to boil an egg. You may also like a watch that displays the various positions of the moon or a timepiece that measures your heart rate.
Many collectors will agree that the appeal of a watch with one or multiple features lies within its complexity. The more advanced the functions, the harder it is to design. The harder the design process, the higher the price tag. The higher the price tag, the more desirable that watch becomes. And so on.
Despite being part of a diverse community, we watch enthusiasts can probably all agree on one thing. Pinpointing one type of watch to make us happy for the rest of our lives is nearly impossible.
A Complication for Everything
Some collectors love a perpetual calendar, while others swear by a dive watch. Some of us pine for timepieces that impart a sense of complexity. If that’s true for you, then collecting a complication watch will inevitably get your horological juices flowing.
There doesn’t necessarily need to be anything insanely complicated in your watch collection. You might just need to own one of everything. As I’ve said before, collecting luxury watches can become quite an obsession. Sometimes, you just need to scratch that itch.
If watch collecting is a subject you want to dip your toe into, read this article. I’m going to outline the types of watches you need in your collection and recommend a model for each category.
Likewise, you may already own quite an established collection but don’t have all bases covered yet. If you want my opinion, the key is to set your sights on the brands that specialize in specific features. As a rule of thumb, stick with German, Swiss, or Japanese watch brands when sourcing well-made complication watches.
All three have a good grasp of craftsmanship, especially those with a storied history (though that’s not always essential).
So, without further ado, here are my recommendations on complication watches you should own and why.
Get a Date Watch
Watches with a date complication tend to divide opinion. While some collectors feel those without one lack depth, others argue it even serves a true purpose. At best, they’re semi-useful.
Whittling it down to one time-and-date watch is quite the challenge. The Grand Seiko Hi-Beat “White Birch” watch is a nice choice. The Japanese brand dubs the Hi-Beat technology as the 10 Beat movement. It can beat ten times per second, promising superior precision.
This Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Hi-Beat watch features a crisp date aperture at 3 o’clock. The feature sits against a dial inspired by Japan’s Shizukuishi region, thanks to a unique decorative technique. The technique echoes the white birch forests that surround Grand Seiko’s studio.
The 40mm steel model comes equipped with a matching bracelet and three-fold clasp. Fundamentally, it delivers a timeless, elegant style, enabling you to keep track of the days of the month with ease.
Choose a Nice Moonphase Complication
Tracking the celestial body that treks monthly around our world is not a necessity. But it’s certainly a fascinating complication to own in a watch.
Manufacturers romantically and scientifically showcase the aspects of the moon beautifully in wristwatches today. Arnold & Son can lay claim to the world’s largest 3D moon phase display with the elegant Luna Magna watch.
I’ve chosen this model because it looks like nothing else on the market. While traditional moon phase watches showcase the display in the 6 o’clock window, the Luna Magna doesn’t. A 12mm lunar globe sits underneath an off-center white lacquered sundial, surrounded by a rich aventurine sky.
The 44mm yellow gold model features a hand-wound movement. It gives you the chance to connect with the watch as you power it up each day.
Stay Organized With a Perpetual Calendar
An in-house perpetual calendar is a prerequisite for a position amongst some of the world’s finest horologists. The first pocket watch version arrived in 1762, followed by Patek Phiippe’s 1888 patented wristwatch. Some more complex Patek Philippe watches have eye-watering price tags, so IWC is my choice for this category.
IWC equips this white gold watch with its in-house movement – the Calibre 52615, promising an autonomy of 168 hours. I love its classy blue dial, and black strap combination, not to mention the double moon display.
The IWC perpetual calendar watch leaves no base uncovered. You get a combined date ring and power reserve at 3 o’clock, as well as a month aperture at 6.
You can also reference the year at 7H, followed by a small second and month dial at 9H. Lastly, the moon phase display sits at 12 o’clock alongside a day and night indicator.
You may need a perpetual calendar if you’re the kind of collector who’s always on the move. The watch doesn’t need adjusting as the annual calendar does.
In fact, the only time you’d need to adjust it (provided it keeps running) manually is the year 2100. And unless you have superhuman powers and plan to outlive us all, you needn’t worry about that too much!
Utilize a Flyback Chronograph
The flyback chronograph complication allows pilots to reset the chronograph swiftly while maintaining continuous timings. It proves useful when recording multiple time intervals.
The difference between a normal and flyback chronograph may not be visibly noticeable. Its complexity, however, adds so much more to the standard chronograph (another great complication to add to your collection).
With a flyback chronograph, you don’t need to stop, start, and reset the timing. The reset button causes the hand to snap back to zero, immediately allowing you to start a new timing.
If you have a bit of cash to splash, I’d recommend the Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Chronograph watch.
Patek Philippe watches aren’t cheap, but they’re definitely worth the money. The benefit of the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Chronograph is that it doesn’t look overly sporty. You can combine this watch with casual or sophisticated attire, and it will never look out of place.
This model features a stunning dark blue dial with bi-compax counters at 12 and 6 o’clock. The top counter displays the date and local time, while the bottom counter features a 60-minute scale. The skeletonized hand is a nice touch, enabling the Flyback Chronograph to deliver a second timezone, too.
Opt for a Good GMT Watch
Speaking of second time zones, no watch can do the job quite like a GMT. Its design is highly legible, concise, and clear.
The two-tone GMT-Master II watch by Rolex is a massive deal. Everyone would love to own one. If you can afford one, you should definitely add this iconic timepiece to your collection. The covetable timepiece is famous for its striking two-tone bezel and tough, rugged exterior.
The durable companion for global exploits embodies the age of commercial air travel. Although available in a wide range of models, years, colors, and materials – this one has to be my favorite. It’s the Rolex GMT-Master II Batman.
Featuring a two-tone graduated rotating bezel, its blue and black aesthetic benefits from Rolex’s patented Cerachrom material. With a watch like the Rolex GMT-Master II Batman, you can track local and reference time or local and home time.
The watch guarantees exceptional legibility thanks to plenty of Chromalight material applied to the dial. The 40mm Oystersteel watch also comes fitted with an in-house movement and a bracelet with the Oysterlock folding clasp.
Add a Beautiful Minute Repeater to Your Collection
Minute repeaters are the holy grail for some collectors. The complexity behind manufacturing one often reflects in a high price tag. But for avid collectors, it’s a small price to pay to own one of the best examples of horological mastery.
The Breguet 7087 Minute Repeater Tourbillon is a 44mm 18k rose gold model that retains a very traditional style. It features a peripheral oscillating rotor and several silicone components for magnetic resistance.
Its construction is a series of magnets, and the gongs mount to the dial side for a clearer audible presentation. The fascinating watch is a mechanical enthusiast’s dream, given its complex dial design. The display exposes parts of the movement underneath, while the time features in an off-center scale are at 2H.
A Day-Date Watch Is a Must
The Ball Roadmaster Skipper Day-Date is a great example of a day-date watch. It features both apertures in the classic 3 o’clock location against a clear parred-back dial. The legible timepiece benefits from Ball Watch Company’s micro gas tubes.
These tritium gas tubes create a mesmerizing glow that far surpasses standard Super-LumiNova.
The excellent legibility of the Ball Roadmaster Skippers Day Date pairs with a compact 40mm steel case. What’s more, the bezel and bracelet benefit from corrosion-resistant aluminum bronze, while the case promises 200-meter water resistance.
It doesn’t matter whether it’s day or night, when you’re wearing this watch, you’ll benefit from its unparalleled legibility. For this reason alone, this watch had to be on my top complications list.
Invest in a World Time Watch
It’s hard to imagine a better world-time watch than the Bremont ALT1-WT.
The British company has its elbows in the luxury watch sector, especially when it comes to producing complications. It’s an obvious choice for many collectors, thanks to its superior blend of robustness and reliability.
While the Bremont ALT1-WT is a world-time watch by definition, it’s also a great daily companion. It features a 43mm steel case integrated with 100-meter water resistance. The world cities on the flange join by a tri-compax chronograph layout, too.
World Time watches are visibly spectacular, allowing you to glimpse the time in several other world cities. So, if you’re looking for a watch for long-haul flights or while traveling on business – get the Bremont ALT1-WT.
It’s a solid, well-built, legible timepiece that doubles up as a dress watch. It comes on a black leather strap and echoes the dashboard of a C17 plane.
Round Things Off With an Annual Calendar
Annual calendar watches might need adjusting in February, but they’re a much cheaper alternative to a perpetual calendar. This complication should complete your collection perfectly.
A nifty reminder of a special anniversary or birthday is a very handy thing. Then, of course, there’s the layout. Clear, legible, and concise – a watch like the Longines Master Collection Annual Calendar Chronograph is a superb choice.
This model features a classic black dial with rose gold Roman numerals. You also get a 30-minute counter at 12 o’clock, balanced by a 6 o’clock moon phase and a 12-hour totalizer.
Then, at 9 o’clock, you’ll find a snailed small second and 24-hour dial. A 40mm steel case, topped with an anti-glare sapphire glass top, houses these features.
I particularly like the smooth and unobstructed push-pieces of this Longines annual calendar watch. Given its pricing and its reliable ETA-based movement, this annual calendar is a no-brainer.
The Takeaway
Complications are a great way to add depth and variation to any collection. They make timepieces more interesting, giving connoisseurs a good talking point. If you’re in the market for one, consider these recommendations some of the best out there.
Building a collection with every complication is both fun and exciting. And you’ll always be sure you have the perfect timepiece to match any scenario.
There’s still a huge range of options we couldn’t possibly cover in this read. Take, for example, a tachymeter scale, a pulsometer, a jumping hour, or a power reserve complication.
They all bring functionality to a watch.
What complication could you never do without? And which of the above would complete your collection? We’d love to know. Pop your choices in the comments below, and don’t forget to sign up for our newsletter at The Slender Wrist!
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