Your crash course in Swiss automatic watches awaits you.
If you ask a random person what springs to mind when they think of Switzerland, they’ll likely mention luxury watches.
Many recognize Switzerland as the brainchild of elegant, quality timepieces. But how do you go about buying one if you know nothing about them?
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What Are Swiss Automatic Watches?
First things first, let’s briefly outline what Swiss automatic watches are.
Watches tend to fall into one of two main categories. We have mechanical watches and quartz watches.
Batteries power a quartz watch, which, in turn, powers a very small motor. This motor moves the second hand forward in a “ticking” motion.
Automatic watches belong to the mechanical watch family. They comprise a series of gears and parts that move without the assistance of electronics or batteries.
One way to detect an automatic from a quartz watch is by the sweeping or gliding motion of the second hand. An automatic seconds hand sweeps smoothly, while a quartz-operated one nudges its way around the dial.
Some people wonder what the difference between an automatic and a mechanical watch is. In actual fact, they both sit in the same family.
However, the difference between a self-winding and manual-winding watch is that one requires physical winding. That’s a manual-winding watch. If you own one of these, you’ll need to wind it daily to keep it working.
A self-winding watch is the same as an automatic one. This kind winds itself naturally as you move your wrist. The tension in the spring of a mechanical watch unwinds in a controlled manner, which causes the hands to rotate steadily.
Before we move on from this topic, there’s one more thing to remember. You can also wind an automatic watch via the crown. This is useful if you need to boost your watch after a period without wearing it. After that, the swinging motion of your wrist will keep the movement ticking over.
Dipping Your Toes Into Swiss Automatic Watch Collecting
If you’re thinking of kick-starting your collection with a Swiss automatic watch, you’ll be pleased to know there are plenty of options. The market is full of self-winding timepieces, both pre-owned and new.
But automatic Swiss watches don’t come cheap. So, when you’re at the point of choosing your style, brand, and features, remember to set yourself a budget.
It’s easy to fall into a rabbit hole when looking to buy your first watch. But if you intend to collect watches on a budget, unrealistic options can’t lure you in.
When looking to buy your first Swiss watch, consider what case material, complications, and style you’d like most. While stainless steel is the most conventional of watch case materials, brands are pushing boundaries more than ever before. Hublot, Omega, Panerai, IWC, and Rolex all offer their proprietary case materials.
Size is also important. If your wrist measures on the smaller side, you should consider some smaller options as your first investment.
Then, there are the watch features themselves to consider. Do you need a stopwatch function for the gym or the racetrack? Or do you need a pared-back, understated daily beater to wear everywhere and anywhere? Strap material is another important consideration.
You may need something classic and timeless if your day consists of work meetings and client appointments. But if you’re likely to clunk your watch or get it wet, a rubber band or metal bracelet could be best.
Why Do Collectors Love Swiss Automatic Watches So Much?
Don’t get me wrong, there are many advantages to owning a quartz watch. They’re cheaper to buy because they’re cheaper to make. But they’re also more resistant to shocks and temperature changes. They’re generally more robust and don’t cost as much money to service or maintain.
On the other hand, automatic watches are a true connoisseur’s weak spot. Thanks to their superior craftsmanship and complexity, they afford us a sense of exclusivity. In some ways, they’re more an artistic expression of technology than anything else.
While connected watches, smartphones, and tablets can do so much more for us today, wristwatches are just so classic. Like vintage racing cars, they can’t compete with modern sports cars, but we love them all the same.
You can enjoy a mechanical watch your entire life. You don’t need to upgrade unless you really want to. Automatic watches are one of life’s unnecessary necessities. They’re both non-essential and inevitable, all at the same time. These parallels make the mechanical watch the prized possession it is today.
How Did Swiss Watches Come To Dominate the Industry?
Part of why enthusiasts love Swiss watches so much is because they evoke a sense of nostalgia. They take us back to a time when craftsmen made watches meticulously by hand.
The time-honored techniques and traditional methods used in watchmaking hundreds of years ago boosted Switzerland’s economy. But were the Swiss the first true watchmakers?
In short, no, they weren’t. The French and Germans were nailing it. Some of the very earliest portable clocks were handiwork in Germany. During the early 1500s, Germany created miniature clocks, which laid the foundations for the early pocket watch.
Then came the Protestant Reformation, which affected more than just religion. A series of violent wars erupted, causing French and German watchmakers to flee. They took respite in Switzerland, which managed to stay pretty neutral during the feuds.
From the 1500s onwards, Switzerland maintained a reputation as a leader in the skillset of watchmaking.
During the 1600s, watch and jewelry designs became somewhat elaborate. The Swiss, at the forefront of these innovations, began creating slimmer pocket watches — Britain’s forte. Towards the end of the 1700s, Switzerland was producing 60,000 watches per year. The perpetual watch arrived, followed by the tourbillon (although still in its infancy).
During the 1900s, big players arrived, specializing in the wrist-worn watch, which brings us to the present. Today, some of the oldest names in watchmaking still exist, like Vacheron Constantin, Blancpain, Audemars Piguet, and Patek Philippe.
8 Swiss Automatic Watches Under $1000
Your first luxury timepiece will always be a considered purchase. So, to start you off on the right foot, here are some reasonably priced Swiss-made automatic watches from reputable brands.
1. Tissot Seastar
Tissot is famous for its affordability anyway, but the Seastar is a particularly good dive watch option. You’re getting quality materials and a reliable movement with this thing.
A silicone hairspring built into the movement helps counteract the impact of magnetism on the watch. Plus, there’s an impressive 80-hour power reserve to make use of.
The Seastar range offers several dial colors, each with legible, luminous dial markings. The package also includes a ceramic bezel, sapphire crystal, and solid 300-meter water resistance.
2. DOXA SUB 200
Dive watches offer many appealing features for daily wear, too. They have a tough exterior, sufficient water resistance, and tough case materials. This DOXA SUB is one of the most iconic dive watches in history.
Conservationist and filmmaker Jacques Couteau even chose it for many of his underwater pursuits.
The famous, vivid orange dial is easily visible underwater, plus the brand has a really nice beads-of-rice bracelet, which I love. The SUB 200 gives off a vintage-esque feel that is so fitting of the 1970s era when DOVA was thriving.
3. Tissot Visodate
This is another one from Tissot, but this time, an elegant dress watch. You can wear this watch with pretty much any attire. Dressed on a classic leather strap, the Tissot Visodate gives you plenty for your money.
The automatic Swiss watch features a large day-date function at 3 o’clock. There are also two-toned versions and models with classic silver and black dials to choose from.
Perhaps not quite as lengthy as the Seastar’s 80-hour power reserve, the Visodate movement promises 38 hours of autonomy. This universal movement is also pretty easy and cheap to service.
4. Hamilton Jazzmaster Auto
Automatic movements are generally reliable when it comes to Swiss watches. Some manufacturers source their movements from third parties, while others make their own.
Hamilton’s Jazzmaster Auto watch is pretty contemporary. It’s also simple enough to pair well with formal attire. Its 40mm case size is nice and compact, holding a movement with an anti-magnetic alloy NivachronTM hairspring inside.
5. Victorinox INOX Mechanical
Victorinox makes some cool watches for underwater pursuits. For under $1,000, this Swiss automatic watch is a solidly built companion. Its 200-meter water-resistant case is tough and robust.
Its 43mm dimensions also hold a reliable Swiss-made ETA movement at its center. This is a total tool watch that can withstand most conditions experienced underwater. There’s also a range of cool straps to choose from.
6. Ball Fireman Enterprise
The Ball Watch Fireman Enterprise is a model you can pick up for around $1,000 these days. The company’s history is all about railway accuracy, but it has since excelled in dial luminosity.
This Fireman Enterprise watch features a total of 15 micro gas tubes on its black dial and features automatic movement. It is a great quality watch, given its robust stainless steel bracelet and its capability to withstand 5,000 Gs of shock.
7. Zodiac Olympos
Swiss automatic movement watches don’t come better than a Zodiac model. The brand goes way back, with a history steeped in success. The Zodiac Olympos is a field watch that comes in at just under $1000. Its nickname is the “Manta Ray”.
Looking at the case, there are no prizes for guessing where it gets that!
Its gradient green textured dial looks stunning when combined with this light brown leather strap. This is a nice, affordable, vintage-inspired watch powered by a Swiss-made movement, promising exceptional value for money.
8. Bulova Marine Star Automatic
Last up is Bulova, which makes some incredibly cheap automatic watches. What’s even better is that they balance quality with style in perfect proportions. This Marine Star watch is super sporty and features a 21-jewelled automatic movement.
Its captivating deep blue dial features an open-heart sector that exposes a slice of the movement through the display side. The 45-mm steel watch also has a steel bracelet and features luminous hour markers and an exhibition case back.
Conclusion
If you want to guarantee yourself a solid purchase and a well-made, long-lasting timepiece, Swiss automatic watches are the way to go. The tradition has survived many shake-ups throughout history, but it is still the first choice for many connoisseurs.
That’s not to say that non-Swiss brands don’t do just as good a job of making watches. German, French, and Japanese watch brands certainly give the Swiss a run for their money.
But Swiss watches do tell a very romanticized story of surviving two World Wars and the crushing effects of the Quartz Crisis.
The idea of bearded watchmakers, long in the tooth, nurturing a watch to full health or hand-assembling components under a microscope. High up in the valleys of the Jura Mountains conjures up a very delightful, whimsical image.
When it comes to automatic watches made in Switzerland, the proof is in the pudding. For a long time, the Swiss flag has been waved for authentic, traditional mechanical timepieces.
The nation has a centuries-old reputation for upholding horological standards of the very highest caliber. And it seems that will be the case for many years to come.
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