2024 is looking like a promising one in the world of watches. Here the year’s watch drops I’m most excited about and some hopes for the future!
The Times Square ball isn’t the only thing that drops in the new year. The 2024 dates for Watches and Wonders in Geneva have been announced.
Among the 55 vendors, newcomers include Bremont and Nomos Glashütte among vets like Rolex and Patek. Will these newly minted brands commemorate this with cool new models?
Meanwhile, watch world anniversaries have us on the edge of our seats regarding how these milestones will be celebrated. Collabs that have already been announced and dropped this year beg the question of who else is going to partner up.
And heck, even market insecurities make us wonder what positive changes that may bring.
2024 may be the year we finally hear from our AD regarding that Rolex we’ve been on the waitlist for the past few years.
What I’m Looking Forward to 2024 (15 Things)
Here are some of my hopes for the watch world this year as well as 2024 drops that I think are worth noting!
New Universal Genève Models
The formerly defunct brand Universal Genève was originally founded in 1894 and were pioneers in chronograph technology. As we mention in our guide to racing watches, their Compax watch was a legend on the racetracks.
In 2023, Breitling picked up Universal Genève. That being the case, I fully look forward to possible revivals and archive reissues. Perhaps the Compax will come back with modern creature comforts?
New Limited Edition for Seiko Black Series
Starting in February 2024, Seiko is releasing three new models from their Black Series. If you love a commanding, tactical, yet still refined watch, you’ll want to look into these.
I’m mainly interested in the limited edition, SPB433 because I love the details. It also has a 70-hour power reserve. This brawny tool watch is one of their Sumo models. The dial is beautifully textured which adds dimension to the otherwise sleek, onyx aesthetic.
There’s also the SRPK43, or the King Turtle, with its distinct cushion-like case and the SSC923, a highly accurate solar quartz model. These guys aren’t limited, but they look like they’re as solid and as good-looking as any Seiko tool watch.
Baltic HMS 002 Gold PVD
Nothing says “happy New Year” like the color combination of black and gold. At the end of 2023, Baltic released their MR01 and Bicompax 002 in a sleek and refined black and gold colorway, with updated finishing.
At the beginning of 2024, the HMS 002 gets the same treatment.
I think this model is most conducive to the retro-cool yet always-relevant colorway. The cut-out indices and deco-esque characteristics are decorative yet sober — the exact same vibe that results from combining stark black with shiny gold.
The brushing on the index track is subtle but still dimensional. Meanwhile, the smooth center dial adds a touch of minimalism to temper any potential loudness.
Did I mention the exhibition caseback?
Omega Seamaster Paris 2024
More gold for 2024? It is an Olympic year, after all. I’ve always been a fan of how expressive a Seamaster can get (save for their experimental ‘80s phase).
To celebrate the Paris Olympics this year, Omega outfitted a wave-dial Seamaster with a gold bezel ring. My favorite part is the texturing which adds a bit of sparkle and a lot of visual intrigue.
Between that, the flawless applications, and the Olympic flame second hand, the details here are appropriate and delightful. Naturally, it runs on a co-axial Master Chronometer.
Grand Seiko Ginza Exclusive 2024
A remnant of the purple watch trend of 2023, the Grand Seiko Ginza Exclusive SBGH317 boasts an impeccable dial. Inspired by the winter light of Tokyo’s Ginza district, the geometric pattern adds visual structure to the effervescent light and polish throughout.
The pattern represents the grid structure of Ginza, which is the city’s luxury shipping district as well as where Seiko’s founder set up shop in the 1800s. The entire watch is a feast of exquisite detail, shine, and texture.
It runs on Seiko’s 62GS Hi-Beat Mechanical, making this watch worth a trip to Japan — the only place you can get it on the primary market.
Rolex Day-Date Vienna Philharmonic
Rolex limited editions are rare, as are Rolex collabs. That being the case, this Day-Date Vienna Philharmonic is captivating on a few levels.
First, it’s visually stunning. The hand-scored illustration on the dial depicts slightly abstracted instruments with a violin image placed directly underneath the hands.
This model celebrates Rolex’s 15th year in partnership with the Vienna Philharmonic, whose New Year’s concert they sponsor annually. If you’ve managed to capture the kind of rarified luck that would bestow you with one of these, consider yourself truly blessed.
Oris Big Crown Father Time
Usually serving up baseball partnerships, Oris goes the route of cricket with their Big Crown Father Time. They partnered with London’s Marylebone Cricket Club for this model, which is named after a weathervane that’s been at the club’s cricket ground for almost 100 years.
The watch is fun yet classy. It’s fully bronze, with a weathervane image on the back. You can wear it with a Cervo Volante strap, which is sustainable, handmade acorn leather. Or you can go for a matching bronze bracelet.
Even if you aren’t a cricket fan, these in-the-know elements are part of what makes watches fun. And this guy is a true conversation piece.
Omega Dark Side of the Moon
Omega constantly goes back to their Moonwatch, and why wouldn’t they? This time, they’re remixing the 2018 version that commemorated the 50th anniversary of Apollo 8.
This version is wildly detailed, with the surface of the moon depicted on the dial and caseback. It’s truly a thing of beauty. You’d swear they shrunk the moon down and overlaid it all over the watch.
I think the back is particularly fascinating because the jagged moon surface imagery is seen throughout individual parts of the movement.
Another cool detail is the seconds hand which is shaped like the rocket used on Apollo missions.
Timex Marlin Jet
2024 is kicking off excellently for Timex, who is releasing a beautiful 38-millimeter Marlin. They’ve reissued a few variants of this 1960s archive model, and we’re partial to them.
Part of that has to do with their slender-friendly sizes, and part of it has to do with the charming tactility of their hand-wind movements.
This Marlin Jet is unique in that it’s a brand-new model. It’s inspired by the space age but isn’t a hard reissue. It’s retro-leaning but ultimately sleek and modern.
It features a concave crosshair design on the dial with magnificent applications throughout. Overall, it’s streamlined, tightly-designed, and as versatile as only a mid-century-inspired piece can be.
Timex undeniably has a cool factor about them, but this watch proves they can also be as slick as the Tag Heuers of the world.
Citizen Godzilla
Somewhere in between an epic ancient artifact and an army tank, the Citizen Godzilla is a spec-forward monster. What else can you expect from a name like that?
As always, the Eco-Drive movement is powered by any light source and ensures you don’t need regular battery changes. It also has 300 meters of water resistance and an impact-resistant crystal that’s rounded for more height and impact resistance.
If you love a good G-Shock but want something more expressive in design, I’d direct you to this new drop.
Blancpain x Swatch Ocean of the Storms
The strangely effective high-low partnerships from Swatch, launched by the Moonswatch, continue into 2024. Swatch teased the Blancpain and Swatch collab on January 11 of the new year.
Now, the Ocean of Storms is here. Its glistening brushed dial is complemented by a thick, high-polish bubbled-out Bioceramic bezel. Meanwhile, the viewable multi-layered SISTEM51 movement is built with 51 pieces, adorned with decor, gold, and moon-surface texturing.
The watch’s namesake references Oceanus Procellarum, a crater on the moon that may have had volcanoes on it once upon a time.
Usually, Swatch and Omega partnerships are space-inspired. Meanwhile, Swatch and Blancpain collabs are often ocean-inspired. The fact this combines the moon with the ocean makes a lot of us wonder if a three-way Swatch x Omega x Blancpain collab is on the horizon?
Will Rolex Become Accessible?
It was almost impossible to get a Rolex from your authorized dealer in 2023. This was especially so with stainless steel models. Many dubbed it the Great Rolex Recession. Could this change in 2024?
The bubble may have burst.
Second-hand Rolex prices have dropped sharply and are continuing to drop. On top of that, the brand expanded production, having launched a pre-owned program and buying Bucherer last year. It might be time to take advantage of this price-drop window.
Will We Get Anymore Collabs From Rowing Blazers?
I’ve fully loved every watch collab Rowing Blazers served up.
They teamed up with vintage expert Eric Wind for a Rowing Blazers x Seiko line that was as irreverently classy as the RB clothing line itself. Then, Wind and RB teaming up again for the Zodiac Super Sea Wolf World Time GMT made me believe in a second coming of a jet-set age.
In both fashion and watches, Rowing Blazers went hard on top-notch collaborations in 2023. I know I’m not the only one who wants to see more in 2024.
How Will Christopher Ward Level Up?
Arguably, online-only watch brand Christopher Ward has graduated from “microbrand” to a true Swiss-Made option for watch collectors. Buyers loved their integrated sport watch bracelet, and critics loved their 2022 Bel Canto model.
Now the question on my mind is, how will they retain the cool factor they’ve deservedly earned during their tear-through early years? And how will they do this while also living up to the high expectations of their rising critical acclaim and product quality?
I’m excited to find out.
The 55 Year Omega Moonwatch Anniversary
Yes, we already have Omega’s Dark Side of the Moon in 2024. But we definitely want a dedicated 55th-anniversary model for Apollo 11, not just a reissue of their 50th milestone timepiece for Apollo 8.
With this birthday and the Paris 2024 Olympics, this year is going to be a big one for Omega.
It’s been half a century plus five years since Buzz Aldrin took his Speedy to the moon.
With almost full certainty, I’m sure there will be a major Omega drop because of this.
Conclusion: New Year, New Watch Drops
At the end of the day, no watch expert has a crystal ball — though if we did, it would be made out of scratch-resistant sapphire.
However, 2024 is shaping up to be pretty promising in a lot of ways. Old brands are doing new things, and new brands are joining the old classics clubs. Plus, there are all of those anniversaries.
What watch drops are you most looking forward to in 2024? Sound off in the comments! And don’t forget to join our newsletter to get curated watch content from our experts!
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