Old watches that are worth money can be difficult to find. Just because a model has a big name doesn’t necessarily make it worth it, so I’m here to show you which ones are.
There’s a definite cool factor to vintage watches. I think it has to do with the fact that, in a way, watches are a tool of the past.
With few exceptions, most of us don’t technically need watches anymore. The historical characteristic of an actual vintage feels more authentic.
But this is also why sussing out vintage watches worth money is an interesting and often confusing undertaking. The practical standards by which we measure what makes a good watch, even contemporary models, are often not even relevant.
We measure automatic accuracy when quartz pieces will always be more accurate. We measure the dive watch bezel function when real pro divers have computers for timing. We certainly don’t need a moon phase complication to figure out the tides.
We’re going to get into what being “worth the money” means when it comes to old watches. Then, identify some models that exemplify this.
Table of Contents
Buying Vintage Watches so That It’s Worth It
Right off the bat, if you love a certain vintage model and you can afford it, then it’s worth it. It may not always be one of those old watches that are worth money in the resale sense. However, this is one way in which your dollars aren’t wasted.
You should ensure that your watch is in desirable condition while being realistic that practically no old model will ever be in pristine condition. Even more, just because it has defects doesn’t necessarily mean it’s in poor condition.
A lot of the most popular variations of vintage models have tropical dials. This means the watch face has been discolored by the sun.
So, make sure you do your homework when it comes to a particular vintage model and what counts as exceptional condition for that make and year.
Now that is the case, make sure you aren’t just considering the price for the initial purchase. It might come with extra maintenance, and you might even have to track down some original paperwork. This is especially so if you are trying to resell it.
Relatedly, check out my guide on figuring out a watch’s worth.
Whether something is worth money might have more to do with its value outside of cost.
Did you always want an impossible-to-find model and finally came across one on eBay? Then it’s worth it.
Does it have sentimental value? It’s also worth it.
Do you love the history, and again, can you afford it? Worth it.
Worthwhile Vintage Models Worth Money
Here are some valuable old watches in every different sense.
Pre-1957 Omega Seamasters
The main reason these vintage Seamasters are so worth it is that they’re not that expensive at all. You can find one in decent condition for well under a grand. And with that, you get the Omega name, a genuine vintage, and a pretty straightforward model that goes with any outfit.
Sure, they aren’t the true ancestor of the Seamaster as we know it today. But these predecessor models are a sort of cheat code to get in on quintessential designs from iconic brands on the cheap.
Rolex Paul Newman Daytona
You can’t go wrong with auction record-breakers for two reasons. First of all, if you never plan to resell it, it’s still just a cool watch to have. Who doesn’t want to be in the same club as Paul Newman? That panda dial is iconic and timelessly handsome.
Second, while you can never predict the market, Rolex tends to weather poor markets better than others. And, if it’s broken records before, that bodes well for the future.
Sometimes, it’s just a matter of waiting until the time is right to resell.
Hamilton Gilmore
The Hamilton Gilmore is one of the few vintage gold watches you can get for less than a grand. It’s a 1950s classic and an example of when Hamilton used to be a true American company. Like the pre-57 Seamasters, its sheer affordability makes it worth it.
It sometimes gets flack for being 10-karat gold and being a sort of Reverso alternative. However, you can’t deny that you get a lot for what you pay for.
Rolex Big Crown Submariner 6538
Many would argue that a lot of Submariners could make a list of worthwhile vintage pieces. They’d be right.
However, Reference 6538 checks off two important boxes. First is the pop culture cache, being a Sean-Connery-era James Bond watch.
Second, it’s a “weird” iteration, featuring a red pip and a lack of crown guards to make room for the big crown. Sometimes, design departures that weren’t good enough to keep end up being good enough for resale because of how rare they end up being.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Memovox
This watch is equipped with the legendary Calibre 815, which features the first mechanical alarm in a wristwatch. That alone makes this a collectible. There are still Memovox descendants being made today.
Unfortunately, JLC’s flagship model, the Reverso, takes up most of the spotlight. Fortunately, this might be why vintage Memovox watches (and those like it) are often far less expensive than modern ones.
Bulova Super Seville
Here’s another vintage watch that’s totally worth it. This time, it’s due to its relative affordability and the fact that it isn’t hard to find. Some might consider it a Datejust homage.
Regardless, it was made and manufactured in the ‘60s when Bulova was at the top of its game as an independent watchmaker.
You might even think of it as representing the twilight of watchmaking in America. Moreover, its ETA-based movement is easy to service.
Original Zenith El Primero
When identifying important vintages, you have to have one of the most important chronographs in history. The El Primero was the first mechanical chronograph in the market, boasted a high beat rate, and featured a chrono complication built into the movement itself.
Even the Rolex Daytona once used an El Primero movement before they went completely in-house.
Seiko 6119-8490
Seiko tends to take affordability to the next level. This also happens to be the case when it comes to iconic vintage pieces.
The Seiko 6119-8490 comes in fun, bright colors, providing a Swatch-like collectibility.
However, their bullet-proof mechanical movements and historic quality make them far more grown-up than even the cutest plastic Swatch piece.
You can often find these Seikos at anywhere from around $100 up to $400, depending on their condition.
Rolex Explorer II 1655
The 1655 Explorer II is a desirable vintage watch because of its storied history.
First, it wasn’t initially popular, so current Explorer IIs have widely diverged from the original design. Second, it’s erroneously associated with Steve McQueen, who never actually wore it. Yet, its official nickname is the McQueen.
It’s funny how quirks like this make a model so collectible.
Tag Heuer Monaco 1133B
Unlike the Explorer II 1655, Steve McQueen actually did wear the 1133B Monaco.
It’s named after the famous race track, and McQ wore it in his 1970 film Le Mans.
Tag Heuer has made many modern iterations of this square Chrono, but the originals actually aren’t that hard to find on gray and secondary markets.
Bulova Accutron 214 Spaceview
A quality that makes vintage watches special is if they represent something unique about the brand. That’s the case with the Accutron 214, which is powered by Bulova’s special tuning fork movement. Bulova, in general, is known for quartz innovations, precision, and accuracy.
Even rarer is the fact they actually skeletonize the dial so you can see the movement. This treatment is usually reserved for mechanicals. Despite how unique it is, you can often find this watch for less than a grand.
Patek Philippe Nautilus 3700
Auction house darling Patek Philippe has tons of worthwhile vintage models. I want to highlight the Nautilus, Reference 3700 because it was a direct response to Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak.
So much so that they brought on Gerald Genta, the one who designed the Royal Oak, to design the Nautilus.
It’s a rare find that will easily set you back six digits but add so much history and value to your collection.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 5402ST
And speaking of the Royal Oak, the 5402ST variation is highly collectible because of its uniqueness. It was AP’s first steel watch, for one thing. And it created the market for sporty, luxury watches that combined refined aesthetics with industrial ones.
This watch has a wide price range on the secondary market but will still cost more than the average price of a car.
Seiko 6309
The Seiko 6309 is a quintessential Seiko in that it’s a versatile workhorse. It’s beloved, coveted, and not that hard to find. Like all Seiko watches, it’s affordable, even despite its esteemed vintage status.
Unlike typical Seiko watches, its price seems to be rising, albeit slowly.
This watch is a good example of a vintage piece that will likely offer good resale value if you’re very patient.
FAQs
Here are some answers to commonly asked questions about vintage watch worth.
What Vintage Watches Are Worth Money?
No market is consistent, but Rolex and Patek tend to have more strong resale moments than other brands. You might also consider vintage watches for their rarity, history, and other measures of cost for value.
What Are the Best Vintage Watches To Collect?
It depends on your priorities. You might want one with pop culture cache, like the original Bond Submariner or the rare, elusive Rear Window Tissot. Or maybe you prefer historical importance, like the Speedy has, or even record-breaking capacity like the Paul Newman Daytona.
Conclusion: It’s All About Value
Again, whether or not a vintage watch is worth the cost is a matter of what you want out of it. When it comes to resale, which is the most literal way to define worth, some models are safer than others.
Rolex and Patek Philippe are popular auction brands. Past record-breakers are a better bet in that they’ve proven themselves. Quirks, distinctions, and rare features are also good signs.
Still, weak markets might sometimes last longer than we’d like. In this case, it’s all a matter of waiting for that window of time.
And again, it’s always worth it if that vintage piece is the exact one you’ve always wanted.
Are you a fan of vintage watches? Do you feel more secure in taking steps to acquire one after this article? Let me know in the comments
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