The Roman Numeral Watch — Ancient Origins

Why do we still use Roman numeral watches to tell the time, and where did it all start? Find out here.

The Roman numeral dial. Where to start on such a subject? This kind of dial has been in use since 1000 BC, and we still use it today.

It interprets time in an elegant, classic, and timeless way. It’s fascinating to think that this form of timekeeping hasn’t changed in nearly 700 years.  

Take an antique pocket watch, for example, and put it beside a modern Ulysse Nardin watch. They will both share the same Roman numeral hour track.  

Roman numerals are a classic watch design feature and impart a timeless charm. Watchmakers use them in slim and bold dial fonts and traditional-looking timepieces.

Whereas baton and stick markers inject watches with a modern twist, many collectors prefer the Roman numeral watch dial. 

This unique number system complements many styles of dial hands, offering a broad range to choose from.  

Let’s examine why this dial design is still so popular today and answer the question, “What are Roman numerals?”. 

What Are Roman Numerals?  

Roman numerals are an ancient numerical system that formed during Roman times. It’s an additive and subtractive system that we still use today to represent numbers.  

Latin letters denote base numbers and arbitrary numbers. The letter V, for example, represents the number 5. One more than five is six, so we use I to represent the number one. The number for six, therefore, shows as VI.

We also use a subtraction system to work backward. IV represents the number four. For the numbers four and nine, we place the I before the V and before the letter X (IV and IX, respectively). 

We still use the Roman numeral system to identify bullet points in modern documents and to identify kings and queens. We also see them on the classic watch face.  

What Are the Roman Numerals?  

So, exactly what are the Roman numerals? Well, they are the references you see around a clock face. Examples are IX and VII.

They help us to clarify the time at a glance. That said, they’re still more complicated than the simple Arabic numeral system that came into play after the mid-14th century.  

You may also see Roman numerals in books to identify chapters in stories. In plays, we use them to separate acts.  

Learning the entire Roman numeral system is pretty complex, but keeping things simple, here are the basics:  

One = I 

Five = V 

Ten = X 

Fifty = L 

One Hundred = C 

Five Hundred = D 

One Thousand = M 

We arrange the letters in a specific order to identify each number. Usually, the written rule is that no more than three letters can appear next to one another. 

For example, VIII is possible for the number eight. But the letters change to IX when we want to write the number nine. There is, however, an unusual exception to that rule when it comes to timekeeping. 

Why IIII Instead of IV? 

You may notice something mysterious if you own some watches with Roman numeral dials. 

In traditional Roman numeral style, the numbers up to twelve would be I, II, III, IV, V, VI, VII, VIII, IX, X, XI, and XII. 

Now, take a look at the dial of your Roman numeral watch. Notice anything weird? The fourth hour, which should appear as IV, appears as IIII instead. Why is this, you wonder? 

There is no one easy way to answer this question. The truth is, we don’t know. We could, however, come to a few conclusions. 

The Arabic numeral system didn’t replace Roman numerals until the middle of the 14th century. Before that, we were using an updated version of Roman numerals.

The reference system, originating from Latin letters, came from the Romans. But the Romans confused IIII and VIIII for other numbers like III and VIII. 

Changing these numerals removed the confusion, but that doesn’t answer our question. Why does IIII still appear on the dial? And why don’t we see VIIII at 9 o’clock?

One logical explanation is that Rome’s supreme deity was Jupiter. Romans wrote the name as IVPPITER. One can only guess that using IV on the dial dishonored the supreme deity. 

Other reasons could be purely aesthetics. We can all agree the IIII gives a lovely balanced aesthetic across a watch dial. 

Another reason could be that simplifying the number made it easier for those who lacked education in ancient times. Many were illiterate and lacked basic maths at the time. Simple subtraction was too complex, and this solution eradicated the problem.

Examples of the Roman Numeral Watch Face 

Now that we know the Roman numeral system let’s look at some beautiful Roman numeral watch faces. 

Hamilton American Classic Valiant Auto Watch

Hamilton’s American roots date back to timekeeping on the railway lines in the late 1800s. This timepiece nods to the brand’s heritage with a classic Roman numeral track.

The black-painted numerals complement this white dial watch perfectly. A rose gold-plated bezel frames them. This stainless steel and rose gold bi-color classic measures 40mm and is perfect for a traditional watch collector.

Nomos Glashutte Ludwig Neomatik

Nomis is my favorite watch brand. Its Ludwig Neomatik watch is an excellent example of a Bauhaus—inspired design. The Roman numeral style lived through that phase and came out the other side. 

This steel model combines crisp Roman numerals, a two-hand design, and a pop of color on the small-second counter. 

Orient Bambino 

I love how retro this Orient Bambino watch looks. Bronze-colored Roman numerals sit against a silver dial and a detailed minute and second scale.

Take a look at the classic style of the crown, too. This watch is for lovers of vintage timepieces. It features a brown leather band to complete its old-world charm. 

Tank Louis Cartier Watch

One of the most iconic watches in the world is the Cartier Tank watch. It’s also the perfect advocate for the Roman numeral dial.

Here, the hour markers enrich a rectangular 18k gold case and a white dial. Of course, the blue steel hands and sapphire cabochon crown complete the Tank watch’s recognizable look. 

The Takeaway 

Many collectors still prefer watches with Roman numeras. It imparts classic charm and comes in many styles, from thick appliques to slim, painted tracks. 

The basic 1-to-12-hour track is simple, legible, and easy to decipher at a glance. This, in part, explains why we still use this version of timekeeping so much. 

Aside from this, the Roman numeral watch is classic and elegant. Collectors of traditional timepieces like this conventional style, especially those partial to a dress watch or two. 

Hour tracks have become more abstract over the decades, some boasting minimalist dials. However, the Roman numeral dial prevails, and long may that continue. 

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