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Studying the Alchemy of Ceramic Watches

By Nina Scally Updated June 28, 2024

Do you want to know why ceramic watches rival conventional steel models? Read this introductory article on the super scratch-resistant material.

Source: OMEGA

Watchmaking traditions may dictate that cases should be gold or stainless steel. However, manufacturers are pushing boundaries in material research and development in unimaginable ways. New alloys are arriving daily, not to mention carbon composite materials and recycled plastic cases. 

Ceramic watches are becoming an increasingly popular option within sport and dress watch-collecting circles. Brands manufacturing them are carving out a niche demographic, appealing to contemporary enthusiasts and budding watch collectors alike. 

Hublot watches, for example, feature sapphire, ceramic, Magic Gold, King Gold, carbon fiber, platinum, and titanium cases. But it’s not the only watch brand making hefty leaps in material development. 

Rolex makes in-house gold, TAG Heuer cultivates its diamonds, and Omega makes watches from Ceragold. Even A. Lange & Söhne — one of the oldest manufacturers in history — makes an alloy called “Honey Gold”.

In addition, IWC has recently begun using a unique precious metal named Armor gold. 

The manufacturer also utilizes a material called Ceratanium for its Pilot’s Watch collection. It combines the scratch-resistant qualities of ceramic with the lightweight properties of titanium. 

Table of Contents

  • The Evolution of Ceramic Watch Cases
  • What Are Ceramic Watches? 
  • Why Are Ceramic Watches Expensive?
  • Do Ceramic Watches Scratch? 
  • Are Ceramic Watches Durable? 
  • 3 of the Best Ceramic Watches 
  • The Best White Ceramic Watch 
  • The Takeaway 

The Evolution of Ceramic Watch Cases

If there is one brand that we should recognize for its advances in material development, it’s Rado. The Swiss brand embraced the first “scratch-proof” concept with a ceramic watch in 1986. It was lightweight, scratch-resistant, and remarkably skin-friendly. 

As the brand advanced further in this field, it launched Plasma High-Tech Ceramic. The name reflects the qualities of ceramic combined with the shine of metal. 

Ceramos is another innovative composite material that combines ceramic and alloys. The brand later made this type of hard metal injectable and used it in its Diastar watch. 

Rado’s watches are now famous all over the world. 

Rado is not the only pioneer in the field of ceramics, however. Many other brands have dipped their toe into this sector. One manufacturer, in particular, is IWC Schaffhausen. 

The company garners respect for its vast catalog of pilot’s watches, some of which feature colored ceramic cases. Some of IWC’s Pilot Watch Chronographs, namely the Mojave Desert, Lake Tahoe, and Woodland iterations, boast these tough, scratch-resistant cases. 

What Are Ceramic Watches? 

A timepiece must have a ceramic bezel, bracelet, or case to classify as a ceramic watch. You can easily identify this unique material. 

Ceramic has a smooth surface that is almost cathartic to the touch. Its high-quality surface polish looks kind of liquid-like, with a smooth and flowing surface. The material is not only lightweight but incredibly tough and hard to scratch. 

Ceramics requires a unique process. It’s a non-metallic formula that brands can manufacture in several different ways depending on material combinations. 

Metal compounds and non-metal alloys combine with powders, creating unique case finishes that collectors have become highly fond of. It is this mixture of ionic and covalent bonds that creates such a sleek and alluring finish in a watch. 

Why Are Ceramic Watches Expensive?

Watch prices can vary depending on features, brands, and materials. As watchmakers continue to explore the science of ceramics, more advantageous qualities are unraveling. Ceramic watches are now available in various colors and promise superior hardness compared to other case materials. 

Why are these watches expensive? Well, in the right conditions, they will last for years and years. 

However, the processes undertaken to create ceramic cases are complex and time-consuming. Designers heat and cool these metal compounds and pure materials to exact temperatures. 

Like compacting a ball of snow using the heat from your hands, manufacturers make ceramic cases from sintering powders. 

These ceramic powders enter a case mold, and then extremely high temperatures compress them. So, while the raw materials used for these cases are cheap, the machinery isn’t.  

Do Ceramic Watches Scratch? 

As I’ve already mentioned, ceramic is a material that watch enthusiasts appreciate for its hardness. Compared to materials like gold and steel, manufacturers describe it as scratch-proof, showing minimal signs of wear. But do ceramic watches scratch, even if just a little?

Well, it seems that ceramic watches have been around long enough for collectors to agree on a verdict. It’s hard to scratch a ceramic timepiece, even if you try. That said, you should be careful when wearing these watches in specific environments. 

Ceramic watches can become brittle over time. Moreover, if you drop one on a hard surface, it will likely chip or crack. You can treat slight dings on a ceramic case with a jewelry cloth. This cloth will also remove dirt and tarnishes, returning the material to its bright sheen.

Other apparent scratches on the surface of the case may not be scratches at all. They can be materials from the wearer’s environment that need removing with an ink eraser. 

Are Ceramic Watches Durable? 

As mentioned, ceramic in watchmaking goes back over 30 years. Rado first began specializing in the material in the 1980s with the Diastar Watch. Meanwhile, IWC was getting ready to launch its Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar. 

But that wasn’t the material’s real breakthrough. We didn’t fully appreciate ceramic until industry giant Rolex created its first bezel inlay. The brand used the black ceramic bezel in the GMT-Master II, breaking norms and making quite a stir. 

Soon after, Omega launched its first case, entirely crafted from ceramic, in 2013. Its name was the Speedmaster Professional “Dark Side of the Moon”. It arrived a few years after the brand’s very own ceramic bezel featured on the Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M. 

All of these watches met with resounding success due to their toughness. So, if you were asking yourself, “Are ceramic watches durable?” then yes. In short, they are. 

3 of the Best Ceramic Watches 

Are you ready to buy your first non-steel watch? Here are three of the best ceramic watches on the market right now. 

Omega Speedmaster “Dark Side of the Moon”

This model’s 44-mm case features a single piece of ceramic, creating a huge wrist presence. It may not be an Omega watch for small wrists, but it’s a collectible for any Speedy fan.

Omega Speedmaster Dark side of the Moon

The watch Speedmaster “Dark Side of the Moon” celebrates Omega’s role in space exploration. It features an anti-magnetic movement boasting a 60-hour power reserve. 

The sand-blasted case, however, is the star of the show. It perfectly complements a grey compax chronograph dial and matching grey alligator leather band.

IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 TOP GUN Mojave Desert Edition

If you’re familiar with the “Colours of Top Gun” collection, you’ll recognize the “Mojave Desert” name. It’s one of IWC’s colored ceramic designs. The unique case color takes inspiration from flight suits worn by naval aviators at Top Gun’s fighter weapons school. The dial features the shades of the desert as well.

IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 TOP GUN

This 44.5mm model features a titanium case back and an in-house movement. Should you love the look of a sleek black ceramic watch, check out the brand’s Ceratanium models. 

These combine the scratch-resistant and tough properties of ceramic with the lightweight values of titanium. 

Zenith DEFY Skyline 

Zenith is still releasing cooling watches every year. This 41mm DEFY Skyline watch from Zenith features black ceramic and boasts a sleek silhouette on the wrist.

The Zenith name emblazons a sunburst-textured dial, and the brand’s four-pointed star accompanies it nicely.

Zenith Defy Skyline

Equipped with a matching black integrated rubber strap, this watch features a 1/10th of a second indicator at 9H. It’s also water-resistant to 200 meters and has highly accurate movement. With a 60-hour power reserve, this is an excellent sports watch for everyday wear. 

The Best White Ceramic Watch 

If you’re looking for something a little cleaner and crisper, take a look at this watch. The Rado True Square Automatic Skeleton must be one of the best white ceramic watches on the market.

Rado True Square Automatic Skeleton

Beneath the surface of this two-level dial is an automatic caliber with an 80-hour power reserve. A set of golden-colored hands rotate gracefully atop its beautiful finishes and decorative elements. 

They’re a lovely match for the yellow-gold-colored bridge and 38mm white ceramic monobloc case. If you like contemporary, you will love this unmissable True Square watch, complete with the famous Rado monogram. 

The Takeaway 

Ceramic watches don’t come cheap because engineering this material is not easy. But if you treat it well, ceramic will last years on a watch. Whereas a stainless steel case may become tired-looking after some years, ceramic will stand the test of time. 

As the material grows in popularity, more manufacturers are beginning to dabble with and experiment with its properties. What that means for the future of watchmaking is still an exciting notion. Watch this space. 

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Categories: Best Men's Watches

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Nina Scally

About Nina Scally

Nina spends most of her time navigating the luxury watch industry so that you don’t have to. She enjoys peeling back the layers of a seemingly simple watch to uncover its true beauty and explain all the "ins" and "outs". From balance springs, to straps and from history to technology – her aim is to make the research behind your dream watch fun and interesting every time!

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