How To Buy Used Watches: Shop With Confidence

Buying used watches can be scary and intimidating. I’m here to arm you with the arsenal you need to acquire with confidence.

As an auction house professional, I might be biased. But I prefer used watches to new ones. I also prefer vintage models. I think the potential for interesting provenance makes the watch that much cooler.

Plus, buying used is often cheaper and more attainable. Okay, not always the former, but usually the latter.

Admittedly, it’s riskier, though. The market is filled with fakes. The existence of half-fakes gives would-be scammers the opportunity to withhold information that you could use as a bargaining chip.

However, once you learn how to buy used watches properly, the whole journey can be quite a fun ride. Here are the tenets of how to by used watches.

Serial Monogamy

It’s important to shop one piece at a time, especially if you’re a beginner. Maybe two, but no more than that. What I mean by this is to choose one model or one type at a time. Don’t worry, at the end of the day, you won’t have to pull the trigger on it necessarily.

Doing this just gives you focus and allows you to get to know your choice intimately. This allows you to figure out what you want exactly from your watch type or watch model and know what questions to ask your seller.

Think about it. If you decide you want a Submariner, you’re still looking at 30 references and decades of models.

If you decide you want a sports watch over a dress watch, you’re still looking at several subcategories: Field or dive? What complications are important to you? So on and so forth.

The more specific you get, the better. I think that this is the fun part. At the end of the journey, you may decide to go in a different direction. 

That’s okay! It wasn’t a waste. You will have collected valuable knowledge that will inform the next chapter of the acquisition adventure. This is how people become experts, after all.

Let’s say a dealer is showing you a Military Submariner, and it has Mercedes hands. Your research will tell you that this model has had some parts swapped since the MilSub was built with sword hands.

This is an exaggerated hypothetical for effect. No one would ever do that to MilSub. You’d also be incredibly lucky to be in the same room as one.

What To Look For?

So, to put all of that in order, here’s what you need to look for when doing your research and when looking at a watch.

How Original Is the Watch?

Make sure all the parts are era-accurate. Or, make sure that it’s era-accurate to the extent it matters to you. And make sure the dealer has good answers for anything on the watch that doesn’t make sense (e.g., the above example about the hands on a MilSub).

What Condition Is the Watch In?

Look for scratches and dents, and ask the dealer if any imperfections can be fixed. Check how the watch runs and if all the complications work. Be reasonable and realistic, too. A vintage gold watch will definitely have scratches on it, and that’s okay.

Does It Come With a Box and Paper?

This helps with cinching the watch’s originality, but it’s not really necessary. There are several other ways to authenticate a model. It’s more of a nice thing to have, in my opinion.

You’re welcome to commit yourself to the highest standards but know you’ll have a longer journey to acquiring that perfect used watch. But maybe that’ll make the acquisition process more fun for you! It’s all about doing what’s right for your personal preferences.

Find a Trusted Used Watch Dealer

Once you’ve done your research on the watch you’re looking for, it’s time to qualify as a used watch dealer. “Buy the seller”, as they say.

You don’t always have to come at negotiation from an adversarial place. Even good dealers make bad sales once in a while. Humans make mistakes, after all. But, you do have to come at it from a cautious and protective place.

Always ask questions. If you’re buying online, stick to highly-rated sellers and read reviews. Here are some questions you might want to ask if the information isn’t readily available:

• How did you come across this watch?
• Are there any scratches or condition statuses not obvious in the photos?
• May I see more photos? (Ask this particularly if there are angles not shown or if you want a detailed shot of specific features)
• Could you send me a video of it running?
• When was the last time it was serviced?
• Is XYZ the reason the price is below market/above market?
• Does it come with paperwork?
• I read this bad review. Could you explain what happened here? (Ask this politely, of course!)

Of course, many of the above questions can also apply to in-person transactions. And I hope I don’t have to say that, but please try the watch on.

I’ll sometimes see clients at the Sotheby’s gallery floor admiring a watch in a display case, who are also bidding for it online. A lot of new bidders won’t know to ask to have the piece taken out of the case due to intimidation.

They’re displayed like art because that’s part of the merchandising factor. But make no mistake. These high-end boutiques and galleries aren’t museums. They’re markets. And they’re here to tend to you.

The Importance of the Return Policy

One of the most important things to consider is the dealer’s return policy. They may have a really secure one, something along the lines of agreeing to take any return within a few months, no questions asked.

See if they’ll sign an agreement on the matter.

If you know exactly what you want (and you theoretically would after all the research I advised you to do), the main reason to ever return the watch is if something isn’t up to snuff.

Perhaps you noticed something about it after purchase that may imply a feature swap. Maybe the dealer promised it was from a specific year, but a feature indicates otherwise.

There may be good reasons for these — or not. Just make sure you’re given a window of time to resolve potential after-purchase issues.

Buying Used Watches Online

These days, there are so many options for buying online.

I won’t go too deep into this since I’ve already rounded up 14 of the best to choose from. Check those options out when you’re done here!

Bob’s Watches is famous for its Rolex exchange program. 

Meanwhile, eBay, once the internet’s perpetual garage sale, has made huge strides in creating assurance in luxury purchases. They have actual watch specialists on their staff, and they have a pretty solid authenticity program.

I also like Chrono24 since their market is huge. And yes, implementing a warranty program would be unwieldy in that type of business model. However, they put your payment in an escrow that won’t pay out until you confirm you like what you have.

A lot of the time, I like to use Chrono24 as a starting point. Since they have so many sellers, I can often find examples of specific references and rare models there. Even if I don’t acquire from that marketplace, I can use it to collect information.

You might also consider gray market sellers. Gray market sellers are unauthorized dealers who sell legally. So, it’s not the black market. If you have any concerns, check out our dive into the gray market here.

And don’t discount watch forums. A lot of people sell their pieces in these communities, and you can make the deal in an individual-to-individual way. Again, still treat it professionally, asking all the above questions.

Certified Pre-Owned from Brands

When Rolex announced they’d be partnering with authorized retailers to sell used watches in 2022, the internet became a more exciting place. There was anticipation, debates, and, of course, polarized reactions.

A lot of brands have programs like this. So, if you’re looking for a brand-specific piece, this is one option.

There’s a legitimacy factor to it, which is also why it’s often more expensive. 

However, again, make sure to ask all of the questions.

Watches are sometimes “upgraded” with modern features and are still considered authentic. This isn’t a lie, technically, but you may want a fully vintage piece with fully vintage features.

Conclusion: Start the Adventure

The best thing you can do is simply start the journey!

Are you ready to finally acquire that grail? Well, figure out what you’re willing to pay realistically. Then, decide what you’re willing to concede as far as originality, condition, and paperwork.

Maybe all you know is that you want a “good watch.” Start by deciding whether you want a sports watch or a dress watch. From there, jump into the rabbit hole of brands, features, and styles.

Again, acquisition and the stories you’ll tell once you get that watch are part of the fun of watch collecting.

Have you ever bought a used watch before? Are you going to try it out now? Let us know in the comments! We love hearing from you!