Curious about the Bremoir Lexington? In this hands-on review, I’ll share all of the details that you need to know about this timepiece.
With the watch world so thoroughly dominated by reissues, homages, and general vintage reference, it’s a bit surprising to realize that there aren’t very many watches that rely on Art Deco design.
Sure, there are certain perennial timepieces which echo back to watches of the 1920’s and 1930’s.
However, to find a watch whose design has sprung forth from the Art Deco style itself, like the very decadent buildings and sculptures that came to define the grandeur of the modern metropolis, that is something far more rare.
Overview of The Bremoir Lexington
Enter the Lexington, the debut watch from Bremoir, a micro-brand based in Los Angeles but with its heart set firmly in the Manhattan skyline. At 39mm, the stainless steel case is a bit of a visual enigma.
At a glance, one would like describe it as a cushion shape, however there are multiple levels of visual contouring which are extremely difficult to capture in pictures. Multiple facets along the sides of the case reinforce the simple brushed tops of the lugs.
The high polishing on these facets is so stark in contrast to the brushing on the top of the case that, at least in photos and standard wrist shots, they are almost invisible.
However on the wrist, they stand out with a commanding presence, further accentuated by the slight curvature of the case overall.
Case and Bezel
The Lexington takes heavy inspiration from one of the most iconic examples of Art Deco design, The Chrysler Building.
Rising out of the dynamic and pleasantly peculiar case is a stepped (or terraced) circular bezel which tapers upwards and in towards the anti-reflective coated sapphire crystal.
When viewed from the crown side, the case and bezel together have an almost sci-fi quality, like a flying saucer from a 1950’s comic book (a likely unintentional design, but so much fun to look at nevertheless.) To put it simply, the bezel is gorgeous.
It has a bold and commanding presence that frames the dial perfectly, emphasizing the dynamic and architectural details within.
The watch comes in four colorways, and while the various combinations of blue, silver, and copper are no doubt striking, the black and silver ‘Tuxedo’ is undoubtedly the most classic.
Dial and Lume
Around the contrasting sector dial are highly polished pointed indices, capped by green luminous triangles reminiscent of the triangular vaulted windows on the crown of The Chrysler Building.
The numerals and lettering are in keeping with the same Deco aesthetic. Undoubtedly a graphic designer could provide much greater insight into the history of such fonts, but to the mere watch enthusiast’s eye, the styling of the numerals and signature is effective and cohesive.
Within the Lexington beats an automatic Swiss Technology Production STP 1-11, 26 jewel clone of the workhorse ETA 2824-2. While the movement itself is a fairly everyday movement, Bremoir has gone the extra step to differentiate the movement with some lovely ornamentation.
The baseplate, adorned with a lovely perlage, provides an elegant backdrop for the borderline over-the-top rotor.
The black, gold, and silver coloring are lovely and very much in keeping with the overall aesthetic of the watch, but the printed company motto of “Time Worth Remembering” feels a little bit corny.
Despite its approximately 11mm thickness, the curvature of the case and lugs makes a very natural fit (even on smaller wrists). Indeed, that curvature can’t help but feel like an intentional reference to Gruen Curvexes of the 1930s.
If there is any strong criticism that is likely to be had with the Lexington, it will undoubtedly be with the strap selection. The watch comes with two strap options, a simple leather with contrast stitching and a nylon strap.
Both straps have quick release spring bars, but sadly that’s where the more positive features end. The unfortunate truth is neither of the straps feel as premium, as well thought out, or as detailed as the watch itself.
The only caveat to this criticism is the pin buckle, which has the same stepped detailing as the bezel.
In a way, it feels a bit like the Bremoir is a victim of its own success here. The watch is so surprising, packed with little details, and visually interesting, that a simple off the rack strap just doesn’t cut it, even if it is paired with an utterly charming pin buckle.
The Verdict: A Micro-Brand Watch Worth the Price
At $985, The Lexington is not an inexpensive watch, but at the same time, its not really an expensive one either. Considering the finishing, quality, and genuinely charming design of the watch, it feels like the right price (even if the strap offerings currently fall short).
There’s a bold exuberance inexorably tied to Art Deco, the iconography of the style connoting strength, motion and progress. The Bremoir Lexington embodies that aesthetic, resulting in a well-executed and downright charming watch.
It’s refreshing to see new micro-brands like Bremoir breathing new life in to the sometimes stagnant mechanical watch world. Even if, counterintuitively, that means looking to the past for stylistic inspiration.