Are you considering looking into a vintage Citizen watch or two? Good idea. Here’s some guidance on the matter!
When it comes to vintage watches, Citizen isn’t always the first brand to come to mind. Perhaps one of the many heritage brands under Citizen (I’m partial to Bulova, and relatedly, Accutron), but not necessarily Citizen themselves.
However, Citizen vintage watches represent a lot of the most important innovations in the watch world. This is especially so when it comes to the past 100 years.
While they aren’t necessarily spotlight hogs, Citizen has always had undeniable horological chops. Even more, few brands encapsulate the fascinating overlap between traditional watchmaking and electronics the way Citizen does.
Table of Contents
Why Vintage Citizen Watches?
First off, their history is worth looking into. So, check out this article on the history of Citizen watches when you’re done here.
Basically, Citizen took over a watch research institute in Japan. But, they had both Swiss and Japanese investors (and talent) involved.
So, when it came to watching innovations and technologies, Citizen was always balancing the old world with the new world. This is pretty rare in an industry that mainly holds on to the old ways.
Since the quartz revolution, most brands have fallen into one of three types. You had Swiss heritage brands, those emulating heritage Swiss brands, and leaning hard into the electronics and digital side of things.
Citizen kind of had their hand in all of these pots. The result is a watchmaker that, for a long time, didn’t have a “brand” about them. That’s changed lately, what with Disney partnerships and such.
But this is what makes their vintage pieces so special. They’re function-focused, say a lot about the time, and aren’t necessarily muddled by marketing. These are all highly desirable qualities when it comes to vintage timepieces. And they make you look like a vintage watch scholar.
Plus, they’re also incredibly well-built. So, as old as they are, many will likely still look great on your wrist.
Citizen’s Past Innovations (That You’ll Find in Their Vintages)
I think even Citizen newbies know about their Eco-Drive technology. Meanwhile, after acquiring Bulova and Accutron, they also developed a high-frequency quartz movement that’s impressive and out of this world.
The latter isn’t quite vintage, though. I just thought it was worth mentioning because acquiring Bulova in 2008 was a big achievement for Citizen on two levels. First, it allowed them to keep this American brand alive. And second, it made them the biggest watchmaker in the world.
Mid-20th Century Citizen Innovations
While other brands were worried about what celebrity to hire for their magazine ads, Citizen was doing the following:
In 1959, Citizen was catching up with the Swiss hard-hitters. They launched the first completely waterproof wristwatch in Japan. The Promaster Marine line was born of this watch and is still a popular range today.
Then, in 1982, Citizen developed the most pressure-resistant watch in the world at the time.
Going back to 1970, they were again ahead of the game when they built the first titanium wristwatch. Those who wanted a strong but light and hypoallergenic timepiece rejoiced.
Citizen Atomic Timekeeping
Atomic timekeeping is often associated with Citizen because, in 1993, they offered the first multi-band watch to feature it.
Atomic timekeeping is radio-controlled and synchronizes with radio clocks in your current location.
We’re talking about universal accuracy here.
Citizen Chronomaster and Eco-Drive
Speaking of accuracy, have you heard about their Chronomaster line? They launched it in 1967. It features a high-frequency quartz crystal that’s accurate within five seconds per whole year.
And, of course, Citizen invented Eco-Drive technology in 1976. There are many reasons I love their Eco-Drive watches, but two really stand out.
It’s so convenient. It uses any light source to power up the watch.
You never have to change the battery out, which is one concern people have over quartz watches in the long run. The light turns into energy, and any surplus is stored in an additional power cell. This creates a constant flow of power.
Also, it’s a testament to Citizen’s eco-friendly approach to business and innovation. Long before greenwashing became a thing, this brand was on top of it. They’ve always been concerned about efficient and productive environmentalism in their technologies.
And by looking into old Citizen watches, you get to see this story in action.
Old Citizen Watches Worth Looking Into
Here are some cool models from Citizen’s past. Of course, not all of them are highly attainable, but they’re all worth learning about.
Citizen Parawater
The Citizen Parawater is Japan’s first-ever water-resistant wristwatch. I love it because it’s sporty but elegant and has an almost Deco-esque aesthetic. It reminds me of how pre-cursor Seamasters used to be pretty dressy.
The difference here is that Omega is such a big player in the vintage world. Therefore, people treat those pre-cursors almost as if they’re pre-relevant. Vintage collectors almost seem to want the surviving design language in their old watches.
The Parawater doesn’t rely on present dives; it is historical and actually isn’t the most expensive vintage piece out there. Consult eBay if you’re interested!
Citizen Fugu
The Fugu is Citizen’s left-side crown legend. It came out in 1989 and is their answer to the Seiko SKX007. It’s named after the Japanese pufferfish because the bezel is designed to look like one.
Funny story about its name. Fugu was originally a fan-made nickname. However, Citizen officially adopted it and even engraved pufferfish imagery on the case backs.
Of course, all vintage Fugus are officially certified to stay reliable in the water while maintaining shock resistance and magnetism.
They tend to be easy to find if you just search through Chrono24 and other secondary markets.
Citizen 7400
Before the Skyhawk A-T, Citizen released the 7400, the first radio-controlled watch ever. Remember, Citizen is still a leader in atomic timekeeping.
This watch has been called everything: Innovative, ugly, magnificent, unnecessary, and totally necessary — and that’s what makes it a legend.
With its printed dial and middle cell, there truly has never been anything like it on the market.
1967 Citizen Chronomaster
As mentioned, the Chronomaster upped the accuracy game. It offered a quartz crystal that provided accuracy within five seconds a year.
Beyond that, though, I think the design is quintessential Citizen in a lot of ways. They’re a watchmaker who cares about technology and innovation, not trends. Yet, incidentally, they’ll churn out an exquisite and timeless look.
That’s how I feel about the highly versatile 1967 Chronomasters. And if you go through eBay’s offerings, you’ll find this design built with all sorts of different movements.
1976 Citizen Quartz Watch Crystron Solar Cell
Regarding Eco-Drive, this is the watch that started it all. The Crystron is the first ever solar-powered quartz watch with an analog dial.
Citizens took people’s main gripes with the otherwise “superior” quartz movement and fixed it. Yes, back then, quartz was considered a better option than mechanicals due to its accuracy. With the power of light, Citizen got rid of the whole battery-changing issue.
And there’s just something beta-version about having the visible cells on the dial. It’s retro-futuristic but in a way that’s meaningful to the history of the brand.
As unique as this watch is, it’s not that hard to find on eBay. I’ve noticed that there’s usually at least one posting, and the price can range anywhere from $500 to $1000.
Citizen Challenge Timer 8110 “Bullhead”
In recent years, this watch has come back into the public consciousness because Brad Pitt wore it in Once Upon a Time in Hollywood.
You’d recognize this watch from a mile away thanks to its barrel-shaped case and two push buttons up top. This is where it gets the name Bullhead, though some have also called it the Mickey Mouse.
It came out in the ‘70s and is as unique today as it was then. It’s a silhouette no one has ever really attempted. Even more, it’s engaging and fun to tinker with because of those top pushers.
Citizen Diamond Flake
When it came out in 1962, the Diamond Flake was Japan’s thinnest watch. And at 38 millimeters, it’s an excellent choice for us slender-wristed folk.
This stainless steel timepiece is truly classy and can be worn as both an everyday watch and a dress watch. It’s a high-shine design but not flashy by any means.
Whether it’s the gold-toned or silver-toned applications, the sunburst dial adds a silkiness. Naturally, it has a vintage look about it, but one that’s simple and forever relevant.
Unfortunately, it’s a pretty rare find. So if you love it, and you catch a sighting in the wild, just go for it.
FAQs
I know. This is a lot to take in! So, here are some quick answers to overarching questions regarding vintage Citizen watches.
Are Vintage Citizen Watches Good?
Yes, vintage Citizen watches are excellent. When you can find them, they aren’t always super expensive and built well. A lot of the best models represent an innovation in the watch industry, offering unique designs that aren’t as “obvious” as vintages from huge Swiss brands.
How To Date a Vintage Citizen Watch?
To date a vintage Citizen watch, take a look at the serial number on the case back. The first number represents the year, and the next two numbers represent the month.
How To Identify a Vintage Citizen Watch?
If it’s older than 20 years, then it’s the Citizen is vintage. Use the serial number on the back to date the watch. Of course, you can also use the Internet. Simply Google the serial number, and you’ll likely find your answer somewhere.
Conclusion
I think of Citizen as that guy on the team who is all-important but doesn’t care about the spotlight. He cares more about getting the work done to the highest quality.
Citizen watches today are so straightforward and a testament to their time — though they also tend to be timeless as well simultaneously.
And that’s one of the best parts of their vintage pieces. You can still wear them today, but you’ll always have something cool to say about what the design represents.
Are you a fan of vintage Citizen watches? If so, have you considered buying one? Would you after this article? Let us know in the comments!
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