If you’re going to splurge, why not on a luxury dress watch? It’ll be with you, and perhaps your family after you, forever.
Some of the best timepieces in history are also some of the best luxury dress watches. That’s why they make such great investments. If not from a financial perspective, certainly when it comes to experience and time.
I actually never loved the word “luxury.” It comes from the Latin “luxuria,” which means excess. In reality, there’s nothing inherently excessive about so many luxury goods. Full-grain leather is a luxury over fake leather but is also more practical.
With dress watches, you can wear a beautifully designed and well-crafted model anywhere, not just with dress clothes. And it can also become a meaningful family heirloom.
Here are ten men’s luxury dress watches that qualify.
10 of the Best Luxury Dress Watches for Men
The best part about dress watches is that they’re often perfect for slender wrists. In fact, dress watches for small wrists are quite easy to find! And remember, the best dress watches don’t have to cost you an arm and a leg.
Today, however, we’re focusing on some of the more posh pieces you can find.
Jaeger-Lecoultre Reverso: A King Among Men’s Luxury Dress Watches
I’m starting with the classic Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso because it proves the point I made earlier. The features we consider luxury today were often born of genuine need, and through need, innovation.
The Reverso is a stately and distinct piece thanks to its solid, square case and often simple dial. Most iterations have these characteristics. The swivel case made it so that polo players could turn the face inwards for protection.
Today, you can reverse the dial to find either a second time zone or another dial style. The former is called a Duoface, and the latter a Duetto. You have to love an interactive timepiece.
Patek Philippe Calatrava
Auction house darling Patek Philippe has built many iterations of the Calatrava throughout time. However, I want to focus on the simple versions, the ones akin to the modern 5227s.
For example, I’ll touch on the 5227G in white gold, the 5227R in rose gold, and the 5227J in gold.
If there’s such a thing as a modern, quintessential dress watch, it’s the Calatrava — round, clean, simple design. Check. Precious metal construction. Check. Snazzy leather strap. Check.
Sure, the current Calatravas feature harder contemporary lines and modern creature comforts. Other than that though, it hasn’t changed much since it debuted in 1936 with Ref. 96.
Audemars Piguet Jules Audemars
I know what you’re thinking. I’ve so far listed tentpole models from classic brands. Why the Jules Audemars over the Royal Oak? To many, it’s arguable whether or not the Royal Oak is a dress watch.
Meanwhile, the Jules is undeniably one. Moreover, it symbolizes what people knew AP for before the Royal Oak.
Their slogan is “To break the rules, you must first master them.” The Royal Oak represents the broken rules, but the Jules represents a modern iteration of when they mastered the classics.
I particularly like the versions with Roman numerals and an AP 12 marker. Ref. 15120OR.OO.A088CR.01 is an incredible 39 millimeters and made with beautiful rose gold. You can complement its warm tones by pairing it with a brown leather strap.
So many dress watches have a chic, icy, nighttime aesthetic. This Audemars Piguet is for your summer, autumn, and daytime lovers.
Piaget Polo Date
Now, if you do like the Royal Oak or Patek Nautilus aesthetic, check out the Piaget Polo Date. It does the whole textured dial and robust case thing but pours it into a non-hybrid dress watch silhouette.
The dial and bezel’s polygonic shape is delicate, further tempered by soft swerves throughout the case body. It’s as if the Royal Oak and Nautilus combined.
Then, the resulting amalgamation started to morph into a traditional dress watch, stopping short of a full transition.
Suffice it to say, the Polo Date is an interesting, distinct dress watch, but one that doesn’t offend traditionalists. More importantly, it doesn’t break any dress codes.
Rolex 1908
I’m of the belief that a man can wear most Rolex watches with eveningwear. Perhaps you can call it the James Bond effect. James Bond’s watches tend to be on the sporty side, but the suave spy wears them with a tux without batting an eye.
The Day-Date, with its fluted bezel, is the obvious choice. Heck, put an Air-King on a leather strap, and you can call it a dress watch.
However, the Rolex Perpetual 1908 is truly unique. It’s a dress watch that doesn’t compromise the form-forward design language we turn to Rolex for.
Plus, the 1908 Platinum definitely made waves at Watches and Wonders 2024. The guilloche dial, Arabic cardinals, and small seconds combine practicality with elegance, as do the fluted edges of the case.
However, it’s that exhibition case back that really does it for me. Rolex never does this. It’s as if they want you to know they’re still all about function despite going full dress watch on us.
Cartier Tank
There would be a square-shaped hole if I didn’t include the Cartier Tank on this list. Why is it that out of all the rectangular dress watches out there, the Tanks is the gold standard?
I think it’s because it flaunts the downright royal, sporty man-of-leisure vibe of the Reverso. It also boasts the cosmopolitan deal-closer capitalist aesthetic of vintage banker watches.
It’s the class of old money minus the mustiness and the relevance of new money minus the gaucheness. No other square watch can compare.
Breguet Classique 5157
Out of all the Breguet watches I could’ve chosen, I went with the Classique 5157 specifically. This is because I think it best encapsulates the fanciful, but not overly whimsical, look of the line. I also love the classy, thin profile.
It’s definitely a unique look for a dress watch, but at the same time, it’s not at all forlorn or over the top.
The brand is known for its traditional handcrafted engraving technique and its hallmark Breguet hands, all of which are on this watch. Be warned this watch costs a pretty penny (north of $15k).
Grand Seiko Snowflake Dial SBGA407
There aren’t many Japanese heritage brands represented among horological hard-hitters. Grand Seiko, however, has carved out a niche in the market.
The Grand Seiko SBGA407 evokes everything great about the brand. The organic dial design and vivid hue found inspiration from the Shinshu mountains in Japan.
Grand Seiko’s famous spring drive movement powers this watch. A quartz signal regulates the hands, but a mainspring provides mechanical torque. (Check out this article for more on Seiko movements.)
This means the watch has elements of both quartz and mechanical movements. The result? You get harmonious Japanese artistry with disciplined engineering.
A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Moon Phase
The A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Moon Phase combines romanticism with a still function-forward look. It’s dreamy but not cheesy.
I particularly like the Ref. 384.026 and models like it. It’s simple, straightforward, and has all the prerequisites of a traditional dress watch.
The moon phases in the small seconds and the blue sword hands add to the aforementioned fantastical quality.
It’s a great use of space on the dial and, with a position opposing the date window, creates superb balance. Speaking of the date window, it reminds us this is still a serious watch.
Parmigiani Toric Petite Seconde
And finally, among the classics, is this newbie. The Parmigiani Toric Petite Seconde turned heads at Watches and Wonders 2024.
And it’s easy to see why. Its minimalist elegance takes classic dress watches into the 21st century while still honoring tried-and-true elements.
There’s ornateness in the few details that are there. The subtle texture and sheen of the clean dial, the dimensionality of the indices, and the sword hands, for example. The pale blue-green hand-stitched nubuck alligator strap adds a perfect finishing touch.
Conclusion: The Right Investment for You
These may be some of the best luxury dress watches in terms of influence, market, and history. However, when it comes to choosing the best luxury watch for you, it feels especially personal.
Of course, there’s your personal style and budget. But also, how versatile do you want it to be? What functions are important to you? Dress watches tend to be quite simple. Many don’t have great water-resistant properties, for instance.
Practicality aside, if you have priorities similar to mine you might want to know what story the watch tells and what it says about you.
What are your favorite dress watches? Let me know in the comments!
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