Are you looking to add a new dive watch to your collection? Do your wetsuit; we are going in!
Horological enthusiasts love dive watches more than they have ever done before. Those who own one don’t necessarily plan to dive with it. They simply appreciate its robust design, longevity, and performance.
That said, these rugged tools certainly have what it takes should you wish to plunge into unthinkable depths with them. In this article, I’ll be outlining some of the best options.
What Is a Dive Watch?
You may not realize, but diver watches have been around for over a century! They first emerged in 1919 after a patent for a hermetically sealed case arrived.
In 1926, Rolex developed the Oyster case, which subsequently formed the backbone of pretty much every Rolex that followed.
In 1932, the Omega Marine was one of the first fully-fledged divers’ watches to arrive on the market. The Panerai Radiomir, known for its radioactive, luminescent material, followed suit in 1936.
Since then, pioneering brands specializing in dive watches have uncovered some incredibly innovative technology. Helium escape valves, depth gauges, and unfathomable water-resistant capabilities are just some examples.
But what is a dive watch exactly? For a timepiece to be a dive watch, it must comply with ISO standards. This means it must match a set of criteria.
Dive watches must also offer a time-measuring feature like a unidirectional rotating bezel. They also need a legible luminous dial and sufficient water resistance.
We associate the dive watch with names like the Rolex Submariner and the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms. However, many other brands specialize in this field.
This article outlines several respectable dive watch designs you may want to add to your collection. So, let’s dive right in.
The 4 Best Automatic Divers Watch
In this article, I’ll be covering several automatic divers watches. One of the best options, however, could be this Seiko Prospex Arnie.
Seiko Prospex “Arnie”
The Seiko Prospex “Arnie” watch is a modern reinterpretation of an older model. It acquired its name after the actor Arnold Schwarzenegger wore a 1982 Seiko Hybrid Divers model.
This dive watch is a solar power model. It converts natural and electric light into power to keep the watch ticking over accurately.
Designed for sports lovers, as well as divers, the watch features Lumibrite-treated appliques for optimum clarity.
Luxury Dive Watches
High-end luxury dive watches blend superior materials with reliable movements. Here are a couple of options that won’t break the bank.
Tudor Black Bay 58
This luxury dive watch oozes the neo-vintage charm that collectors love about the Black Bay series. What’s more, it’s the closest iteration to the brand’s first-ever dive watch, released back in the 1960s.
TUDOR unveiled the latest of the Black Bay series at the Watches and Wonders 2024 showcase in Basel just weeks ago. This reference sports a black and red 24-hour “Coke” bezel as a GMT complication.
This model measures a true-to-size 38mm diameter and comes fitted on a sophisticated three-link stainless steel bracelet. It has the brand’s patented T-Fit clasp.
Hamilton Khaki Navy Auto Scuba
Nothing captures the distinguishable DNA of the dive watch quite like a deep blue dial. The Hamilton Khaki Navy Auto Scuba watch is natural in underwater environments with its tough 300-meter water-resistant steel case.
Its ceramic bezel features clear engraved numbers to help you monitor your remaining dive time while underwater. Its confident 43mm case also houses the automatic H-10 Calibre inside.
Since the movement is capable of 80 hours of power reserve, it’s a great weekend-friendly option.
If you’ve explored the Hamilton Khaki range before, you’ll recognize the inner 24-hour scale on its dial. This design combines nicely with a set of legible hour markers and a red-tipped secondhand.
Professional Divers Watch
It’s no secret that some of the best professional divers watches are produced by industry-leading manufacturers. Engineered for serious underwater exploration, they boast a unique blend of supreme materials and cutting-edge technology.
Omega Seamaster PLOPROF 1200M Titanium
One of the best professional divers watches has to be the Omega Seamaster PLOPROF 1200M watch. Omega makes the watch from titanium. Its lightweight construction is ergonomic, to ensure wearer comfort for longer dive times.
This heavy-duty dive watch is a hefty-looking sea-hungry companion.
Its broad case measures 48mm in diameter and features a crown with a crown protection guard at 9H. The unusual location reduces the risk of it snagging on wetsuit gear. Instead, the right side of the case features an orange helium escape valve at 1H.
Its matching orange unidirectional rotating bezel pairs nicely with a mesh bracelet. Moreover, this watch is water resistant to 1200 meters, and Omega fits it with a chronometer-certified movement.
All-Black Dive Watch
Are you looking for a stealthy dive tool? Take a look at this all-black dive watch.
Certina DS Action Diver
Check out the DS Action Diver watch from Certina, clad in an all-black wetsuit! This ISO-certified tool for underwater pursuits carries the brand’s DS concept, launched back in 1959.
Certina’s DS Concept has enjoyed over sixty years of success, consistently proving its importance when implemented into diving watches like this.
Short for “Double Security”, it has assumed many different faces, some particularly stealthy like this reference.
Having undergone extensive research and testing, experts at Certina eventually came up with the DS Concept — AKA the floating movement. It’s where the engine is suspended inside a shock absorber ring for protection against impact. A fine cushion of air surrounding this movement enables it to move in various directions.
This all-black dive watch features a black lacquered dial inside a 43-mm black PVD-coated stainless steel case.
At night, Super-LumiNova coatings on the dial elements ensure maximum clarity with a vivid blue emission. Meanwhile, the Powermatic 80.611 offers an impressive 80-hour power reserve.
5 Vintage Style Divers Watches
Looking to add a dive watch with a little more character to your collection? Feast your eyes on these vintage-style divers watches.
Breitling Superocean Heritage ’57
When I think about vintage-inspired dive watches, the first model that springs to mind is the Superocean Heritage ’57. This reissue of a popular dive tool from yesteryear first popped its head out of the water in 2020.
Part of the appeal of a true vintage dive watch is that you get to enjoy faded bezels and a unique, aged patina. You may not get that with a current model inspired by an older timepiece.
What you do get to enjoy, though, is retro character and charm by the bucket load.
Now, you can get models from this range that feature chronograph counters and a day-date complication. You can also opt for a panda dial watch, a style with a contrasting black-on-white arrangement.
For me, however, the beauty of the Heritage ’57 lies in its simpler designs.
The combination of the black dial, bi-color steel, and 18k rose gold aesthetic really captures an old-world charm.
The 42mm model pays homage to the laid-back surfer’s lifestyle enjoyed in the 1960s.
A concave bidirectional rotating bezel made from ceramic is scratch-resistant and paired with oversized dial indices.
These features combine with a COSC-certified movement and a brown calfskin strap to complete the look effortlessly.
Zodiac Super Sea Wolf Diver
You can’t miss the attractive, vibrant colorways of this retro-inspired diver’s watch. When wearing a watch like this for leisure, you forget the emphasis on the passing moments of the day.
Instead, you get to enjoy it for what it is. It is a sporty, colorful number with loads of dive watch functionality (just in case).
The model comes with a water-resistant capability of 200 meters and flaunts the brand’s compression-style aesthetic.
A silver dial sits inside an orange minute ring and a light blue bezel. The color combinations are nothing short of eye-catching and are great for enjoying on this interchangeable steel bracelet.
Oris Divers Sixty-Five
Some truly wacky colors have entered the Cotton Candy sub-series of the Oris Divers Sixty-Five collection. Lipstick pink, grass green, and sky blue are some examples. But for something more classic, check out the deep emerald green dial on this model.
The vintage-looking dive watch measures 40mm and promises a 100-meter water resistance.
Suffice it to say, this watch isn’t for actual serious dives. But if you love the old-world “dive watch” look, this model is perfect.
Equipped with a reliable automatic movement, you can make use of 38 hours of power reserve. Plus, you get this stylish brown leather strap that perfectly compliments a black ceramic and bronze bezel.
Doxa SUB 300
If you’re going to use bold colors, do it with the DOXA SUB 300. The range offers so many vivid dial colors.
These, of course, include the iconic orange dial that represented some of the brand’s earliest designs. Jacques-Yves Cousteau, ocean conservationist and inventor of the Aqua Lung, wore this dive color.
DOXA chose this color since it is visible under dark and daring underwater depths.
Combined with the luminous elements of the dial, this SUB 300 features an attractive beads-of-rice bracelet.
The 300-meter water-resistant watch also features the brand’s famous easy-to-use unidirectional rotating bezel. The design of the bezel, with a dual scale for depth and time, calculated a safe return to the water’s surface.
Lorier Hydra II
Lorier is still a relatively young brand, but its innovative designs suggest otherwise. The brand is a great go-to option if you’re looking for affordable luxury. Its version of the vintage dive watch is the Hydra II, which promises a now-slimmer 39mm size for small wrists.
The Hydra II features an internal rotating bezel, a 100-meter water-resistant steel case, a large crown, and straight-edged lugs.
One thing I love about this watch is its dial. Reminiscent of vintage gilt dive watches, the arrow-tipped hour, second hands, and luminous hour markers stand out superbly.
A domed Hesalite crystal protects a black dial. Often seen in vintage Seiko watches, it keeps costs down for both manufacturer and consumer.
Mechanical Dive Watch: Panerai Luminor Base Logo
I make no apologies in saying that this mechanical dive watch is one of the most iconic. The brand’s status in the industry has propelled the watch far in terms of popularity.
It comes with all the vintage charm one would expect of a legendary creator of military dive tools.
The Panerai Luminor only became available to the public in 1993. Yet it carried all the distinctive features of those initial watches supplied to the Italian Navy. These include a cushion-shaped case and a large crown-protecting guard.
The Luminor Baso Logo is one of the simplest of Luminor watches. It’s also an entry point into the collection. Its pared-back dial in black is home to Arabic numerals positioned quarterly around the hour track.
It features the hand-wound P. 6000 movement, which provides an impressive three-day power reserve once fully wound.
This mechanical dive watch features a black Caoutchouc strap and has an OP-engraved stainless steel buckle.
Can You Wear a Dive Watch With a Suit?
Yes, you can! Traditionally, dive watches were incredibly bulky and reserved for heavy diving gear.
Today, modern dive watches can make for great statement pieces and pair well with formal and professional attire.
The Takeaway
Hopefully, you now know a bit about both contemporary and vintage-inspired dive watch options.
I think you’ll agree that some brands have made some real gems over the last seventy years. And the innovations keep coming.
Now, more than ever, it’s possible to shop affordably for dive watches. The market is full of industry leaders covering every budget possible.
Which pick from his list was your favorite? Let us know which one and why in the comments below!
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