Under the Loupe With an Icon — The Cartier Skeleton Watch

The Santos De Cartier Skeleton watch is a timeless classic from the French brand’s oldest pilot’s watch range. Learn all about it here. 

At the time of its release, nothing quite like the Cartier Santos watch on the market. It was a bold step away from the era-defining rounded case that everyone was wearing. Its integrated lugs were distinctive, allowing it to sit comfortably against the wrist. 

The Cartier Santos was a bona fide men’s watch. It was masculine, bold, and different. Due to its popularity, its design stood the test of time and has changed very little since 1904.   

One of the most intriguing iterations of the Santos is the Skeleton version. It spotlights some of the brand’s finest watchmaking artistry. 

Perhaps you’re interested in adding a skeleton watch to your collection? Or maybe you’re just interested in the watch and why it’s such a timeless gem. This article covers everything you might want to know about this important Skeleton Cartier watch and why collectors love it. 

The History of the Cartier Santos Watch

The Cartier Santos watch is the famous French watchmaker’s oldest line of watches. It arrived in 1904 when Brazilian pilot Alberto Santos-Dumont approached company founder Louis Cartier, asking for a handy cockpit tool.   

Alberto Santos-Dumont needed a watch that he could utilize without taking his hands off the cockpit controls. Aviation was still new in the early 20th century, and this was no simple request. It didn’t deter Cartier, though.

The brand got to work, pioneering what the world now recognizes as one of the industry’s most iconic designs. It wasn’t just the first pilot’s watch. It was the first real men’s watch.   

Its sloping Roman numerals, blue steel sword hands, and railroad minute track were unique. Remember that at this point in history, watches were seen as a woman’s accessory, and pocket watches were impractical for physically demanding tasks.   

In 1906, the aviator put the watch to the test. Santos-Dumont wore the wristwatch during his first public flight. It’s no wonder the watch soared to success shortly after.

Fast forward to 2009. Cartier released its first Skeleton version of the watch — the Santos 100.   

Cartier takes an entirely new approach to skeletonising a watch compared to brands like Vacheron Constantin, one of the oldest watchmakers in history. Instead of stripping a movement down until it is almost transparent, Cartier chooses a different approach.  

The engine’s components became part of the design. This radically improved the watch’s structure, demonstrating technical excellence, both mechanically and aesthetically.   

The Cartier Santos Skeleton Watch Versions

The Cartier Santos Skeleton watch is the most impressive of the entire family. Its stunning display allows the wearer to glimpse the horological artistry of each Cartier watch.   

Skeletonized watches are beautiful because they expose the intricate mechanics at play through their front and rear cases. Cartier watches with a skeleton dial also benefit from a sapphire crystal case back.

For me, the combination of a front and rear sapphire is very special. It creates the impression of a floating movement, almost as if suspended within a glass cage.   

While doing so, Cartier showcases some of the highest levels of movement decoration and finishes. Cleverly, the Roman numerals stretched out in true Santos style integrate fluidly into the skeleton design.

While the visual appeal is much more entrancing than a conventional two-handed display, the watch still maintains legibility.   

There are several iterations of the Cartier de Santos Skeleton watch.

One example includes a very indulgent 18k rose gold case with matching gold hands and grey Roman numeral indexes. The brand also offers the Skeleton dial in the Santos Dumont collection.   

You can also find the Santos Skeleton in a two-tone version crafted from stainless steel and 18k yellow gold. The gold square bezel echoes the distinctive shape of the case and features decorative screws in steel.

Cartier Santos Skeleton watches typically come on a classic leather strap, but the metal bracelet clearly gives them an edge.   

Another example includes a monochromatic version with silver-grey lacquered dial elements and movement components.

The only injection of color in this black DLC-coated steel model is the 20 rubies of its engine — except at night. In the dark, the hour track illuminates in a rich green glow thanks to a generous coating of Super-LumiNova.   

Other iterations include those with blue brushed bezels or green Roman numeral hour tracks. Some models are even gem-set for a more indulgent finish.   

The Key Features of the Santos de Cartier Skeleton Watch

One appealing feature of this Santos de Cartier Skeleton watch is its manual-winding skeletonized movement. Cartier released the first version of a manually-wound Santos Watch in 2018.   

There are a few benefits to wearing a mechanical watch compared to an automatic movement. One is that the manual movement affords a slimmer case since it goes without the rotor.

The other is that you can appreciate a manual watch on a much more personal level since it requires winding each day.   

What makes the movement even more impressive is that Cartier designed it from the beginning as a skeleton engine. As I mentioned earlier, the distinct Roman numeral hour markers have more than one use in this watch.  

Cartier uses them as bridges. It saves the brand’s specialists from sawing and filing bridges to make them virtually transparent. Instead, they disguise their role as a supporting component to the movement with their signature stretched styling.   

Comparing the Dumont with the Santos Skeleton, the latter is better for casual weekend attire despite being more elaborate than the solid dial.

You can easily get away with wearing it with a pair of jeans, while the Dumont feels more refined.   

Another great feature of the Santos de Cartier Skeleton Watch is its versatility. You can wear the watch on a metal bracelet or calf leather strap.

The latter gives off more casual vibes. But if you’re looking for a sweet spot in this middle, try this watch on an alligator band.   

FAQs  

If you want to learn more about Cartier and its famous skeleton watch, read these FAQs.   

Is the Cartier Skeleton worth it?  

Collectors love the appeal of the Cartier Skeleton, both in the classic Santos iteration or the dressier Santos Dumont. If superior materials and beautifully crafted in-house movements are important to you, the Cartier Skeleton is worth it.   

How can you tell if a Cartier Skeleton is real? 

The serial number, bezel screws, and trademark winding crown cabochon are all giveaways of an actual authentic Cartier. The brand inscription on the movement, serial numbers, and weight of the watch are other clues.   

Why is Cartier so expensive?  

Cartier is an expensive brand because of its prestigious history. Its high-tech watchmaking laboratory is a testament to some of the company’s incredible innovations over the years.

Some are rare and highly sought after, while others stand out for their craftsmanship and quality.   

The Takeaway   

Whether the classic-looking Santos or the rarer Dumont, the Cartier Skeleton watch is a take on the iconic pilot’s watch. It is, by far, one of the most impressive iterations of the pilot’s watch in the collection.   

These models showcase the intricate skeletonisation of Cartier’s most impressive engine elements. Uniquely, the dials and the movement almost become one.   

These models give the wearer a view of the decorated movement from a front and rear perspective. The exposed movement, carefully crafted by Cartier specialists, perfectly balances beauty and functionality.  

While the Santos is a popular collectible, the Skeleton version is undoubtedly more desirable.  

What’s your favorite Cartier watch? Are you a fan of the Santos? Let us know what you love most about the brand. Don’t forget to sign up for our newsletter at The Slender Wrist, too!