In 1969, 36,000 beats per hour were unheard of in a mechanical movement. Discover the interesting history of the Zenith El Primero movement here.
The Zenith El Primero is an extraordinary thing. It’s one of the most essential and famous movements in the watch world. Horologists know this watch movement, and so should you. After all, it did play an integral role in the history of watchmaking.
El Primero has given life to so many iconic watches and become more recognizable than some of them. Indeed, if you speak to any avid watch collector, they’ll recognize the movement’s name. And if they don’t own one, they’ll remember one or two watches featuring the movement.
In this article, we’ll examine the El Primero watch and its famous movement. This will allow you to fully appreciate Zenith’s work as a watchmaker and movement manufacturer.
For some reason, the industry doesn’t hold Zenith in as high regard as it should. We should easily consider it alongside names like Rolex, Patek Philippe, or Audemars Piguet.
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A Brief History of the Zenith El Primero
Imagine opening your first watchmaking business at just 22 years old. That’s what Georges Favre-Jacot did.
Nestled in the picturesque village of Le Locle, he set up an atelier that became a world-first.
The brand’s 100th anniversary marked the arrival of the El Primero — the first-ever automatic chronograph movement.
At the time, several watch brands, including Seiko, were chomping at the bit to manufacture this type of movement. Don’t forget, in 1969, we hadn’t yet applied self-winding technology to a timepiece with stopwatch features.
Zenith beat its rivals to the finish line.
The El Primero movement, meaning “The First”, set new standards in timekeeping accuracy. It broke records with its performance of 36,000 vibrations per hour.
With a deviation of just +5/-3 seconds per day, stopwatch functions could measure elapsed times of 1/10th of a second. It was revolutionary for its time, promising insane automatic watch accuracy.
The Zenith El Primero Movement
So, we’ve established that Zenith tackled one of the biggest technical challenges in watchmaking history. Let’s look at how it hit the shelves.
1969 Zenith released the Ref. 369 with a striking panda dial. Then came the tri-colour Ref. A386 with blue, grey, and silver sub-counters. With a 38mm size, it made for a superb chronograph for smaller wrists.
In the same year, another revelation was brewing. Enter the mass-produced quartz movement, led by no other than Seiko with the famous Astron watch. Despite the challenges, Zenith survived the crushing effects of the Quartz Crisis.
In 1998, Rolex approached Zenith, looking for an automatic movement to equip the iconic Daytona. The company swapped the Calibre 4030 with the existing manual-winding movement. The iconic sports watch became a highly coveted collectible.
The movement is also featured in some TAG Heuer Monaco and Carrera watches and the Hublot Spirit of Big Bang. In addition, the Bvlgari Octo Velocissimo Chronograph and Panerai OP IV benefit from its superior accuracy.
Now that we’ve examined the El Primero movement, let’s explore some investment-worthy Zenith El Primero watches.
The Zenith El Primero Chronomaster
The Zenith El Primero Chronomaster is a collection of watches outfitted with the El Primero movement. The models in the series come in many variations, from tourbillons to chronographs to moon phases.
Perhaps one of the most classic of designs (and a multi-functional one at that) is the El Primero Chronomaster Original.
The triple calendar complication shows the day above the small seconds subdial at 9H and the month at 3H. Then, you can track a 60-minute counter at 6 o’clock combined with a moon phase. The date window nestles in between the black-filled 3 and 6 o’clock subdials.
The striking panda dial design distills the essence of the original Ref. 369 but with added luxurious rose gold-colored accents. The 38mm steel model is an excellent choice for those searching for a chronograph for small wrists.
The Zenith Defy El Primero 21
Setting itself apart from others, the Zenith Defy El Primero 21 watch has two regulating organs. One controls the chronograph functions, and the other controls regular timekeeping. All the while, it promises its astounding 360,000 oscillations per hour.
Complete with a 1/100th of a second function, Zenith El Primero 21 is a highly accurate 44mm model. It also boasts contemporary black-and-white ceramic, and a black-and-white rubber band completes its sporty look.
You can still find this model on the pre-owned watch market. Its stark contrasting hues and 50-hour power reserve are some of its best features.
Against its skeletonized movement are a 30-minute counter, a small-second subdial, and a 60-second counter. A power reserve indicator concludes its technical aesthetic at 12 o’clock.
The Zenith El Primero Chronograph
Take a look at this El Primero Chronomaster EP Original watch. It is, by far, one of the most true-to-original Zenith El Primero Chronograph designs.
It features a stainless steel 38mm case — the same proportions as the brand’s first 1969 release.
From a distance, a white background clearly showcases the notable tri-color dial. A black and white tachymeter scale around the flange enhances these chronograph counters.
This sporty Zenith watch boasts a 60-hour power reserve, providing everything you need in a chronograph watch. Completing its instantly recognizable look is a blue “Nubuck” leather strap and steel brand-engraved clasp.
The Zenith El Primero Revival
Feast your eyes on this Zenith El Primero Revival watch’s iconic tonneau profile and black alligator leather strap.
This watch, measuring 37 mm in diameter and powered by the El Primero movement, gives off genuine motorsport vibes.
I love how Zenith ensures this watch retains the classic appeal of the original. Its retro-inspired push-pieces and handy tachymeter scale are a great match. Plus, the central chronograph’s vibrant red coating makes it easy to identify.
The Zenith El Primero Moonphase
If you’re searching the market for a Zenith El Primero moon phase watch, look no further than the aforementioned Chronomaster Original.
This triple calendar watch presents itself on a deep olive green dial with a trio of white sub-dials. This is a boutique-only version but is also available on the second-hand market.
The 38mm model, with a matching polished and brushed steel bracelet, offers a 1/10th of a second chronograph function.
Lastly, its deep blue and gold moon phase decoration works beautifully with gold-colored hands and a day, date, and month aperture.
Zenith El Primero: Chronograph Extravaganza
The Zenith El Primero movement is the gateway drug to chronograph heaven. As such, it thoroughly deserves to feature in so many interesting variants of the iconic sports watch today.
Since its release, timekeeping has always been different. Who would imagine one man and his company were capable of such groundbreaking horological work?
The movement has helped shape watchmaking history and is still a pillar of timekeeping accuracy today. It has been the power behind so many great watch designs. It also gave some brands the leg-up they needed to experience massive success in the chronograph world.
The bottom line is that Zenith is criminally underrated and deserves so much more credit than it gets. Now that you have all the knowledge you need on this legendary design, it’s up to you to change that.
Did you know that the Zenith El Primero traveled from Paris to New York while fixed to the landing gear of a Boeing 707? If you know any interesting facts about the watch, share them with us at The Slender Wrist today!
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