Even in the age of the internet, nothing can truly replace vintage watch stores. Today, I’ll explore why this is the case, what they are exactly, and why they’re important.
As a writer, it’s no surprise that I’m a book enthusiast. As someone who writes predominantly about watches, it’s also no surprise that I’m a watch enthusiast as well. (By the way, watch books make great presents for people like me.)
As an establishment, I consider the vintage watch store similar to the local library or the independent used book store. People love them but may not believe them to be that relevant anymore.
On the contrary, I think vintage watch stores are an integral star in the constellation that is the watch market. You might find this a romantic and impractical notion.
The online watch market has come a long way when it comes to authentication and accountability. It’s not the back alley it once was.
I totally agree. Here’s why this doesn’t render vintage watch stores irrelevant, though.
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What Exactly Makes a Vintage Watch Store?
I’m sure most of you know that a vintage watch store is one that, of course, sells vintage watches. This includes timepieces that are anywhere from 20 to 30 years old, depending on who you ask.
Even if you don’t think 20 is old enough to qualify, I think it’s safe to say a 20-year-old watch that isn’t in production is at least vintage adjacent. I’ve also heard the phrase neo-vintage thrown around.
What about general vintage shops that also happen to sell watches? They technically count, but I wouldn’t qualify them unless there’s a watch specialist or even a luxury specialist on the team.
Moreover, I’d say that they’d also need a pretty consistent rotation of pieces coming in. Even if their inventory is relatively small, a constant presence qualifies said store.
Why Are Vintage Watch Shops Necessary?
First of all, when you’re buying a used watch, as they say, you should buy the seller. At the end of the day, an in-person relationship with a dealer will always be more valuable than an online one — all things considered, of course.
Even more, you can have a civilized in-person conversation if ever an acquisition goes sour. However, I know that a lot of digital native retailers have made great strides in offering a personal customer service experience.
But, for me, even in my relationships, I prefer to hash issues out in person rather than via email, DM, or even a phone call.
Second, you can always see the watch in person. One of the pieces of advice I give to buyers who acquire online is to always ask for detail shots. Also, if they can, to get shots of any angles that may not be presented on a web page.
Moreover, if possible, I suggest asking for a video of the timepiece running.
Getting this visual information is obviously far less complicated when you walk into a watch shop.
And finally, most importantly, vintage watch shops are a great resource. Again, they’re like a library. Even if you aren’t buying from your local brick-and-mortar, you can see and hold a model you’re considering.
You can inquire with the specialists there about its general functions too.
And speaking of functions, watch repair services and vintage watch shops are inextricably related. Perhaps a vintage watch shop specializes in Omegas. They’re likely going to be a good and reliable source for that Omega bracelet part you need to extend your new Seamaster that’s too small.
There are also stand-alone watch and clock repair shops. But these days, businesses need to diversify in order to survive.
Vintage Watch Store NYC
I want to talk a bit about the vintage watch shop scene in New York City, where I live. In some ways, it’s really unique and remarkable. After all, New York is a center, if not the center, of luxury markets and auction houses. There’s a lot of resources here.
But shining some light on it can help you figure out what to look for in other cities and markets in general.
In my opinion, there are three main types of vintage watch stores in New York. Yes, there are nuances and possibly hybrids. But for the sake of organization, clarity, and the ability to seek out the right market for you, we’ll simplify it to these three.
The Old School Watch Shop
There are the small old-school watch shops that have survived the drastic change in the market. Many of them are off Canal Street, which is mainly known for knock-offs.
However, you can easily tell the legit places because they’ve often been there for a long time, and they usually only sell watches, jewelry, and accessories (not old stereos or haircuts).
And often, in any big city, or any place where there are knock-offs, there are probably hidden gems too. Black markets follow the clientele.
These are great places to develop relationships with because they’re independently run. It’s literally like “having a guy.” And they often have watch servicing and repairs available.
Some popular shops include Chen’s Watches and Tempvs Fugit, the latter run by an auction house consultant.
I live on the Upper East Side and have turned to Sam Zagoory Watch & Jewelry when I needed extra links on my bracelet and when my Seamaster was ticking erratically.
The Ones That Run Like Art Galleries
And speaking of the Upper East Side, there’s another kind of vintage watch shop to look out for. It’s the kind you might find in neighborhoods that host other establishments associated with the very wealthy.
These shops are like art galleries, with associates trained to know how to talk about the watches and jewelry on display. The more senior the attendant, the more specific their answers to your questions will be.
Like art galleries, they likely have a roster of clients they’re constantly buying and selling to. As such, they usually have a pretty set inventory that’s always moving.
Aaron Faber is one that’s mentioned a lot in watch forums.
As with art galleries, these establishments may be intimidating to step into. They’re certainly more intimidating than your run-of-the-mill retail shops.
And while this isn’t the case for every gallery, there may be some snobbery behind the counter. But, if you’re looking for some high-end models, these kinds of outlets are one of your best bets.
The Big Luxury Stores That Buy Out Smaller Ones
The best example I could think of for this category is Watches of Switzerland. They’re authorized dealers with large, department store-like flagship stores, and they usually have a used and vintage arm of the business.
With Watches of Switzerland, their branch is Analog: Shift, which they purchased in 2020.
Analog: Shift displays their watches in their office, which you can see via appointment. They also throw some pretty cool events, many of which I’ve attended.
Being owned by a bigger group allows these types of markets to work like an old-school watch shop. At the same time, they can also create a brand, image, and vibe.
Another example of this kind of business is Wrist Aficionado, which has locations in all of the most important watch markets in the US: New York, Miami, and my hometown, Beverly Hills.
And by the way, the LA vintage watch market scene is also worth looking into.
Vintage Watch Store Los Angeles
Los Angeles has a lot of similar types of stores to New York throughout the county. The Watch Buyers Group is a popular one in Pasadena where you can buy, sell, and get service.
Another interesting shop format is the high-end pawn shop. Famously, The Dina Collection was the focus of a reality show called Beverly Hills Pawn. I used to work at an art gallery right next to it, and celebrities buying Rolexes and Pateks there were not a rare sight.
There’s also the Beverly Loan Company, which goes to show that even the 1% faces tough times once in a while.
Then there’s Second Time Around, a trusted vintage watch shop that infuses the old-school watch shop model with a touch of glamor and luxury. They’ve been around since 1976 and offer excellent repair services, too.
Vintage Watch Store San Francisco
I know that the main hubs for luxury watches are New York, LA, and Miami. However, I find the Bay Area’s vintage watch scene fascinating. In the land of the Apple Watch, there’s still deep interest in good old-fashioned timepieces.
HQ Milton has been around since 2007. The store itself is furnished in an engaging and homey way. It’s a far cry from a lot of high-end watch boutiques and their sterile waiting rooms.
HQ Milton is San Francisco’s go-to for vintage and pre-owned models.
And for you extra fancy watch buyers, the Shreve & Co. have been in San Francisco and Palo Alto since 1894. They’re an iconic store that sells jewelry and diamonds on top of high-quality watches.
They were actually the first retailer in America to sell Patek Philippe, the first being Tiffany.
The Oldest Luxury Store in America
I’d be remiss if I didn’t at least mention Shreve, Crump & Low. This Boston-based business is the oldest luxury goods purveyor in America.
They’ve been around since 1796 and are a trusted store for vintage watches, as well as jewelry and diamonds.
When I was in college in Boston, I interned at an art gallery not far from Shreve’s flagship store. It exuded an old world class that wasn’t musty and definitely had an impressive selection of timepieces.
Conclusion
Again, the biggest markets for vintage watch stores include New York, LA, and Miami. In fact, whenever we watch auctions at Sotheby’s (my day job, for those keeping track), we have tons of bidders from Florida. Many of these clients are vintage watch dealers.
Still, there are vintage watch stores all over the country. And again, even if you’re not buying your timepieces from them, they’re always good to connect with if you love vintage watches.
Truly, vintage watch stores are still a relevant part of the collector’s experience.
What are some of your favorite vintage watch stores? Do you have one you frequent or go to to gather information? Let me know in the comments!
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