Like their tentpole Royal Oak, Audemars Piguet adds elegance to industrialism with their [Re]Master02, but in a new and significant way.
You know what I’m a sucker for? When watch brands incorporate art and architecture into their models. It’s why I love that Bulova has a line of Frank Lloyd Wright watches.
The new [Re]Master02 doesn’t just hat-tip to the Brutalist school of design, though. It’s a piece of architecture in and of itself. It’s not a conventional timepiece, but it’s so sleek that it almost creates a new brand of classic.
Audemars Piguet has a knack for doing that.
Here’s why this new limited edition timepiece (just 250 pieces) is relevant to today’s market as well as AP’s history.
The Design
The AP [Re]Master02 is one of many asymmetrical watches making a splash in today’s watch market. The Cartier Crash is another one that seems to be everywhere, from magazine editorials to major auction headlines.
The [Re]Master02 is different, though. Its asymmetrical design doesn’t lend itself to a fun kind of chaos or artistic irreverence.
In fact, the watch design is incredibly disciplined, clean, and filled with intention. Compare that to the Crash, designed to look like the result of an accident.
The crown stretches out the rectangular 41-millimeter case on the side. The extended sapphire crystal with a mezzanine compensates for the extra slack, providing a bay window aesthetic.
It adds a sense of geometry to the asymmetry while also giving just a hint of dial distortion — just a touch, though. There’s nothing psychedelic about this watch.
Twelve individually brassed triangles compose the dial, allowing for beautiful light play and shine. Between each triangular plate are partitions made of the same material as the case. These partitions serve as the watch indices. It’s a brilliant way to combine timekeeping functionality with architecture.
AP makes the case, like the dial partitions, from 18-karat sand gold. It’s an alloy of gold, copper, and palladium that looks like something between rose gold and white gold. Depending on where the light hits it, it can exhibit a cooler or warmer tone. Like the dial partitions, the case is impeccably brushed.
The case also flaunts a grid-like topography. It features quite a few sharp turns into differently angled surfaces.
To balance this unbalanced design even more, it’s on a stately leather strap. I’m talking about a full-grain alligator in a dark but vivid blue that matches the lucid hue of the dial.
Finally, the [RE]Master02 runs on the super skinny Caliber 7129, which you can watch in action through the exhibition caseback. It’s a good thing, too; it’s a good-looking movement, especially with the glimmer of those pink rubies.
Its 52-hour power reserve is also pretty respectable.
And what is the price for this cutting-edge timepiece? A cool $47,200.
A Brief History
In 2020, the first [RE]Master, called the [RE]Master01 appropriately enough, debuted. It was a reinterpretation of a charmingly antique chronograph from the ‘40s.
It was a rare and revived model, a deep cut, with a limited production of 500 pieces. That’s double the run of its successor.
Like the [RE]Master01, Audemars Piguet extracted the [RE]Master02 from its archives. And like the RE]Master01, it’s also a deep cut. It’s not a watch you’d instantly recognize, but it’s certainly one that’ll catch your eye.
In a blip of history, between 1959 and 1963, to be exact, AP designed a few asymmetrical models. They often had minuscule runs, most lines running no more than ten pieces per.
In 1960, the 5159BA launched.
This yellow-gold watch featured a stretched-out crown side, as well as triangular plates on the dial. Only seven pieces were made. With the [RE]Master02, Audemars Piguet adds another 250 to this family of Brutalist-inspired designs.
Brutalism is a plain, raw style of architecture that uses sharp, abrupt turns to communicate a sense of violence.
Exposed raw stone and steel are used over decorative design. Some famous examples include Habitat 67 Montreal Building and Boston City Hall.
The 5159BA, and in turn, the [RE]Master02, takes a cleaned-up approach, but the sharp turns and unconventionalism remain.
Even the materials used are relevant to Audermars Piguet’s recent history.
Audemars Piguet first used AP sand gold on the Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Open worked quite recently. Meanwhile, the movement is based on Caliber 7121, which was made to fit the extra-thin Royal Oaks that came out in 2022.
Basically, there are a lot of milestones in this watch.
Cool but Instantly Classic
There’s no denying that this watch is “cool.” And by that, I mean it’s definitely current.
In fact, a cynic might accuse Audemars Piguet of cashing in on trends. Unconventionally-shaped watches are hot right now (I already mentioned the Crash, but there’s also the Cheich).
And sure, the use of brackets in the subline’s name might be a bit cutesy for some people.
But in my mind, AP isn’t crashing a club it’s not a part of.
They’re a brand that’s known for refining functional aesthetics. Don’t forget. When it comes to the classy industrial look, the Royal Oak did it first. The Patek Phillipe Nautilus may sit on the throne next to Royal Oak, but it came out four years later.
Even more, the design of the [RE]Master02 is very literally straight from AP’s archives. Plus, the use of their new materials to remix the look shows it’s not just an uninspired reissue.
Remember, of the 30 asymmetrical watches AP made in the late ‘50s and early ‘60s, only seven 5159BAs were built. This watch brings to light a moment in the brand’s history that’s been basically lost in time.
As AP themselves refer to it, it’s a “forgotten golden age.” I think that’s such a treat for AP fans and watch fans in general.
So maybe Audemars Piguet is cashing in. Maybe. But with the [RE]Master02, they’re doing so in a tasteful, meaningful way. Art and commerce can overlap, you know?
What do you think of this polarizing design? Leave a comment and let me know.
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